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A2 pulley advice (Read 2791 times)

James Malloch

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A2 pulley advice
September 16, 2012, 08:09:16 pm
I was bouldering yesterday and managed to damage my ring finger whilst on a crimp which I managed to catch strangely. There was some kind of pop, not sure if I heard it or just felt it and associated the noise with the feeling. Either way it hurt and ended my day climbing and I taped it up and went to the pub.

I'm assuming it's a pulley injury but I'm pretty clueless about them to be honest.

It's been sore since if i try to use that hand for picking things up etc, and today I went to take the top off a sugar pot and was greeted by the same pop noise/feeling and pain much much worse than when I first did it.

I've taped it up to my little finger to avoid it being used as much but unsure what to do now.

I can happily do pullups on a beastmaker 1000 jugs so does this fit with this kind of injury?

Do I need to be giving climbing a miss for a bit, or can I still do bits and pieces? Will pullups cause further damage?

Any advice would be welcomed as to what to do now, what to look out or feel for etc.

Thanks
James


mrjonathanr

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#1 Re: A2 pulley advice
September 16, 2012, 09:18:39 pm

1 I can happily do pullups on a beastmaker 1000 jugs so does this fit with this kind of injury?

2 Do I need to be giving climbing a miss for a bit, or 3 can I still do bits and pieces? 4 Will pullups cause further damage?

1 yes    2 I would    3 I'd rest it right now  4  They won't help recovery right now, I wouldn't bother.

Here's my advice. If it's a pulley. If it's A2, then the pad at the base of your finger will be sore when you apply pressure to it as that's where the ligaments are.
1 rest it completely for upto 3 weeks. Reduce inflammation with a daily ice bath and after 3 or 4 days, ibuprofen/voltarol tablets.
2 see a climbing physio.
3 bring up the diet/training list page and type 'A2 pulley finger injury' into the search box on the right. You'll have lots to read (DaveMcCleod's  blog has stuff too)
4 There are doctors and physios on this board - you'll probably get some expert advice in due course, but it won't be based on an examination of your finger - see point 2.

It sounds like a fairly classic A2 (that isn't a diagnosis btw, that's an observatiopn from reading your post). Treatment and rehab time depend on severity, but the rule of thumb is total rest for 2-3 weeks and then graded activity building up from there. They often take about 3 months to fix, but people often begin to climb after 3 weeks. Mummify it with tape and start rehab with climbing severes has been my approach for such injuries. They are annoying but generally fixable.
Good luck.

James Malloch

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#2 Re: A2 pulley advice
September 16, 2012, 09:36:26 pm
Thanks for the reply, sounds like the kind of things I've read/thought about. I'm not certain it's a pulley but a few people said it sounds like it.

I've got no inflammation or pain from pushing the pad at the base of the finger, but that's where I'm getting a lot of pain from movement etc which makes me wonder if it is actually the pulley. There was definitely some kind of pop though which fits with the injury...

Nibile

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#3 Re: A2 pulley advice
September 17, 2012, 06:46:35 am
ended my day climbing and I taped it up and went to the pub

Alcohol is especially bad for tendons and the likes. It dehydrates, it stiffens tendons up and has a heavy catabolic effect.
Watch it during recovery.

rosmat

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#4 Re: A2 pulley advice
September 17, 2012, 11:43:25 am
Hi James,

This is not a diagnosis but might help you a bit:

Can you crimp or half crimp without pain? If "Yes" then it's unlikely to be an A2 injury, if "No" then likely an A2 injury.

If you can crimp BUT it hurts to open hand then it is more likely to be something else (e.g. FDS or a flexor unit strain)

Either way you'll need to stay off it for a while (e.g. 3 weeks) then start using it again gradually.

Dave Macleod has some very good advice here:
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html

Also good advice here:
http://info.rockrun.com/articles/finger-injuries-and-treatment.html

As Nibile has already suggested - good diet (including avoiding alcohol) will help with your recovery.

Hope it heals soon.


 

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