[csl]

Goals for end of October

Back to E4 onsights
7b/c redpoint
7a onsight
Move near climbing permanently

Mon- Driving back from Cham
Tue- Run
Wed- Nothing
Thu- Gardoms and Curbar. Tried Marks roof left a couple of times, then sacked it and headed to Curbar. Did some easy problems on Trackside block, played on Trackside and Gorilla Warfare then did some easy solos on the crag.
Fri- Malham - getting back into it so just re-climbed Consenting, Rated PG and Seventh Aardvark. Played on Seventh Dragon - bit shit.
Sat- Malham - Decided to get back on new dawn cos there's nothing else i want to do at Malham - was wet from the middle so just tried to nail down a sequence for the start boulder so i stand a chance of getting off the floor more regularly. Made definite progress.
Sun- Almscliff - Just lots of soloing, repeated routes i lead when i was first starting climbing. Good fun.

Good week getting back into it, not as unfit as i thought i was and enjoying getting some volume. Probably going to move back to Leeds ASAP.

[tomtom]

M:
T: 90 min at Logport wall. Just on the 40 deg wall.. need more core/arm strength than crimps...
W:
Th:
F: Helsby. Great session. Working possible new problem, got the V6 traverse
Sa:
Su: Out to Helsby again early. More progress on project, but need more core/commitment/strength. Good workout - feeling tired now.

A good week. Feeling strong again - and lost a couple of pounds. Slowly crawling back towards 11.5 stone again..

Sunday was the first day in a long time when my fingers felt cold warming up. A good sign, the seasons coming

[rich d]

Nothing had a cold I picked up in Turkey - couldn't eat anything sunday and Monday. Weak as a kitten but at least the weights going down a bit. Grit font 7a by end of October was main goal this year and still feels on track. Goals for this week back on the board, core and antagonistics then outside at the weekend on the grit 6c x1, 6b x2, 6a x3.

[fried]

Too much work and some recurent Sciatica led to not much happening this week.

One session on Wednesday - Sticking on steep stuff as I don't want to risk my foot pinging. Most of the time was spent doing back exercises.

Too many obligations at the weekend to get outside.

Weight 75.3kg

[a dense loner]

Hi rich I find your post about 1x 2x 3x problems on the grit very bizarre, I don't think grit likes this approach since the rock is so strange n full of nonsense nuances. Just find a 7a u like n work on it. If ure psyched 2climb one by the end of oct ure obviously ready to get on one.
A mate had this same kind of rule on lime ie. 50 6a's b4 6b ad infinitum. It's just what he wanted to do, but he was quite pissed off when I climbed 7a b4 him 4some reason since he still had about 12 6c's to go. Tbh don't think he ever climbed 7a in the end

[duncan]

STG: get on an E3 next time I'm at a crag. 
MTG: 7b, E5
LTG: various ambitious LH&F

M - Worked Les Spécialistes (8b+), flew home from Verdon
T -
W - The Arch (Aerobic Capacity: 3 x 5 mins).
T -
F -
S - Boulder Ruckle with Mike Highbury: glorious weather, crag almost busy, did three E2s including the excellent Ximenes. Most bits functioning OK, calf cramping on the typical Ruckle bridging corners.
S - Fingerboard foot-on (Anaerobic Capacity: 5 x 1 min); calf-raises, heel drops, stretches.

Great day at Swanage, probably my best this year. Time to get on some harder stuff.  How much longer will the season last down here?
4 weeks post injury, time to up the specific calf strengthening.  Start running again cautiously in a couple of weeks?

[nai]

goals -  finish Why Me? and Ring of Fire then take stock on what to do next.

M - Two Tier, worked out the clips then had three redpoints at Why Me?, best effort was matching the top undercuts but foot skidded.  Pleasing after a heavy weekend & learned a lot about the route, should go next time if I can get back to it quickly.
t
w
T - let down for Two Tier late Thursday but managed to get a partner for the Tor, three redpoints at RoF, cocked up footwork on first two, all over it third time but failed at the last hard move, think I gave up a little too easily, should have tried harder. Disappointed, this one's dragging on longer than it should have (but with sessions average of 4wks apart it's maybe not surprising).  Another I need to get back to quickly...
F - garage 4x4 60s on, 25s off, 4/5 mins rest, failed final match of last rep, good workout.
s - 20km bike ride on Monsal Trail with nipper on a tag along, good fun
S - did a warm up, felt good, 3 x reaches then tried max hangs but struggled dismally, only managing 3-5s when 10s normally ok. Puzzling. Sacked it rather than pushing it.

Encouraging week, weight also down to 58kg from 60+ 3 weeks ago.  Just hope I can avoid the cold the rest of the family has.

[cheque]

STG- 5.12a in Red River Gorge in October.

M- Rest
T- Edge. Climbing really steep stuff well but bottling it when required to try when pumped.  It appears my big trad fall last month still has a grip on my subconcious. Bouldering after.
W- Rest. Not planned, just waiting all evening for a plumber to turn up.
T- Notts wall- bouldered a bit- climbing really well, then onto routes- took lots of leader falls to break the spell. Seemed to do the trick.
F- Deadlifting: new PB of 120kg- 1 & 5/6xBW. Shoulder presses, military presses, 1RM straight-arm pullover.
S- RHS/ Cratcliffe bouldering w/ sisters family- two non-climbers and two tiny kids. 4-year-old nephew now loves climbing rocks  Despite bad conditions did some new (to me) problems and worked Razor Roof- should go next session.
S- Bamford. Led a VS and an HVS before rain stopped play. First time it's felt like proper grit conds since April. 

RRG preparations seem to be going well- the steep 'n' strenuous style of climbing I've done indoors this week is feeling easy, endurance seems high and I regenerated decent skin in less than 24 hours after wearing it down on Saturday. Hopefully two more weeks of current regime and a short taper will set me up to hit my goal.

[tomtom]

Hi rich I find your post about 1x 2x 3x problems on the grit very bizarre, I don't think grit likes this approach since the rock is so strange n full of nonsense nuances. Just find a 7a u like n work on it. If ure psyched 2climb one by the end of oct ure obviously ready to get on one.
A mate had this same kind of rule on lime ie. 50 6a's b4 6b ad infinitum. It's just what he wanted to do, but he was quite pissed off when I climbed 7a b4 him 4some reason since he still had about 12 6c's to go. Tbh don't think he ever climbed 7a in the end

Dense has a point - I think this pyramid approach works well if they are problems you can/have already done (therefore its training - building yourself up etc...) but for new probs I think its good to have a few projects with varying degrees of closeness to try. E.G, I'll have that 7A that I can only do 30% of the time, the 7A+ I can do apart from that ONE MOVE.. and that 7B or 7B+ that I'm miles off, but I always pull hopefully on - and every now and then theres small progress...

Still - whatever works best for you - we're all different etc...

[shark]

11.8-10

M.
T. AM Tor.Rainy to start with and blowy but conds gd but at times cold. Much better on Anger Management. Sticked to main section then jumared to that point. 3 working goes. Another great session - massively better than friday. I love the tor.
W. AM Weighted deadhangs. 30kg. Good session
T. 
F. Couldn't find anyone to go the tor so went to office. If anyone did sneak out in the morning - shame on you. PM Weighted deadhangs attempts at 32.5kgs. Was hoping for a PB so a bit disappointing. May have rushed warm up. Eve. Renewed Foundry membership and bouldered on Wave with Ben
S. AM Bike rack trauma. Eventually got out with Ben and Tom. Did Monsal trail end to end and back. No kneepads. Busy but nice.
S. AM Tor. Good conds. First there but got busy. 4 goes on Anger Management. Some good links. Got main middle bit wired but tagging the first and last hard move's on might be beyond me. Whatever - its still fun.

Getting heavy.

[Muenchener]

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint.
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes by ticking several classics in the V/V+ range in the Dolomites.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   
M. Rest, legs hurt. (Missed last lift down from Blassengrat on Sunday & had to walk down 2,000 metres)
T. ditto
W. Wall, Thalkirchen, routes. 5c 5b 6b+ 6a+ 6a+ 6a+ 6b 6a+. Alarming how quickly a couple of weeks holiday can destroy any hint of forearm endurance: was struggling desperately from the warm-ups onwards
T.
F. Wall, Thalkirchen. Short, weak bouldering session.
S. Swimming.
S. Wall, Thalkirchen. Family outing, mostly belaying kids; couple of surprisingly semi-decent laps on PE circuits in between belay stints.

[tommytwotone]

I only have one update for this week...this:



My time for 2010 was 1:56:18 - I was aiming to beat it, and hopefully get it done sub-1:50...currently enjoying a celebratory beer!

[rich d]

Hi rich I find your post about 1x 2x 3x problems on the grit very bizarre, I don't think grit likes this approach since the rock is so strange n full of nonsense nuances. Just find a 7a u like n work on it. If ure psyched 2climb one by the end of oct ure obviously ready to get on one.
A mate had this same kind of rule on lime ie. 50 6a's b4 6b ad infinitum. It's just what he wanted to do, but he was quite pissed off when I climbed 7a b4 him 4some reason since he still had about 12 6c's to go. Tbh don't think he ever climbed 7a in the end

cheers Dense I'll take your advice and just work one.

[Nibile]

After the project, I decided to have an easy week. It's not been as easy as I would have liked, mainly due to my lower back seizing up on Monday afternoon, still don't know exactly why: maybe a bike ride home with a heavy bag full of new books, and some cold wind could have done the deed. Anyway, after a week it's not bad today.

Mon - rest. Back in agony.
Tue - rest, work all day. Back in agony.
Wed - Beast. Max hangs 2 arms, +6/10 kg, 3 sets. Not bad at all. Poor skin. Back better.
Thu - board. Useless, very short links on two problems. Felt like a beast but my mind was completely out of focus, totally centered on the bike work. Vol 1. Int 4. Tweaked back again.
Idiot.
Fri - beast. Max 1 arm hangs. Very strong. Back better.
Sat - bike work all day. Tiring. Sore back with work.
Sun - bouldering. Poor skin and Sore back, still managed to repeat something.

I want to get going again this week. I decided to drop all the pockets for one arm hangs, skin is painful and a few of them feel dangerous. I am still weak on mid two and back two, despite making progresses (briefly hung back two right hand, skin hurts like hell). So from now on theone arm sessions will be on back3 (big rung), front3 (left eye), small rung, very small rung (the central incut that I modified).
The Friday session felt very good, probably a PB on small rung. Very surprised.
Finally, left wrist slowly getting better (4 months in, now...).

[andy popp]

Life has yet to settle back into a routine, hopefully it will soon.

Mon - work
Tues - work
Wed - board, problems. Better again, for first time do a problem that isn't basically one of my old warm ups
Thurs - board circuits, again improvement over last week
Fri - work
Sat - move son in university halls (yay!). Quick easy hour at Pex
Sun - nothing

I think its fair to say I'm re-habituated to climbing on the board, the basic aim of the last three or four weeks, need to start thinking about something a bit more purposeful and hopefully make use of some autumn weather.

[iain]

Great day at Swanage, probably my best this year. Time to get on some harder stuff.

  and congrats to tommytwo(tone)

Not posted for a few weeks due to N.Wales trad trip and then post trip life nonsense. The trip went well really though, did pretty much everything I set out to do including Moon, Cream, Resurrection and Right Wall. Only fell off one route all week though so must try harder.

Have lost 3 out of 4 weeks training for IG due to injury and last week's busyness, and am now away from home for two weeks so no proper training. When I first got on it I had hopes of a send this year, but I think I'm too far away now. Will still head back for some more time but will think about other goals. The trad fitness/head may have to get used if it's still there when I get home.

[andy_e]

Mon: Wall, new problems. Flashed some I wouldn't have expected to. Flashed about 30 problems in an hour. Knackered.
Tue: Wall, more new problems. Incredibly hot for some reason. Sweated one out, did some harder leftover problems.
Wed: Nothing.
Thurs: Ilkley Rocky Valley. A few warm-ups, then did Body Rocker (7A) again. Tried Energy Follows Thought and got it just before the rain set in. Felt more like 7B than 7B+ but I have no idea about grades. Rain, followed by driving back to Leeds, then it brightened up, so had an evening session at the Cliff. Did a fairly easy circuit. Hunters after for a pint.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Plantation. Thorough warm-up followed by attempt on Captain Hook. Fell off the top-out at least four times. NNFN. Surprised I did all the moves so quickly though and apparently this is benchmark 7B so I might be going quite well at the moment.
Sun: Brimham. Got some warming up done before the rain, then went to Joker's Wall and got rained on some more. Retired to the hunters for a pint.

[cheque]

The trip went well really though, did pretty much everything I set out to do including Moon, Cream, Resurrection and Right Wall.

Nice.    You must have had good weather too.

F- Deadlifting: new PB of 120kg- 1 & 5/6xBW.

That should read 110, not 120.

[Nibile]

Jesus Christ, I nearly had a heart attack! I had misread
"deadhanging: new PB 120kg"!!!

[tomtom]

Jesus Christ, I nearly had a heart attack! I had misread
"deadhanging: new PB 120kg"!!!

One or two handed

[duncan]

STG: More E4 onsights.

...did pretty much everything I set out to do including Moon, Cream, Resurrection and Right Wall. Only fell off one route all week though so must try harder.

M - Worked Les Spécialistes (8b+), flew home from Verdon

 

Climbing the ladder to fondle the starting holds counts doesn't it?  I should have also mentioned that we onsighted the approach, quite impressive I thought given the (lack of) information in the guide. 

It was a little pilgrimage for me, one of those routes I read about during my retirement.  Very fine it looked too: like a 10m 40° board with no  tufas to spoil it. Good effort from M. Tribout in 1987.

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July(Done),  to 165lbs by end of August. (165.1lbs on Friday!!!! - Close enough)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (11/10 done)
Climb two 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).  Moves done on two projects that are probably 8b/+ and 8c.  Should be able to send them by Oct.
NEW Goal - 8A+ by October

Monday - Run 5mi
Tuesday - 7K Race, FB-MED 7mm edge - felt easy, so added weight for last hang and still felt good.
Wednesday - Rest
Thursday -  Run 5mi, FB-MED 7mm + 15lbs
Friday - Long Run - 11mi, Pwr-end, DL, Bench, Front Levers
Saturday - Rest/Family Stuff
Sunday - Soccer in AM (hattrick ), Afternoon FB-MEd - 7mm + 20lbs

On a big down note, the weather looks like it'll stay crap for at least the next week.  Doesn't look like I'll be getting outside this week.  If it doesn't clear out soon, I may lose my window on my project due to snow.  I'll be seriously depressed/pissed off if I miss it.

[richdraws]

STG (before Sept) - Boulder 7a new goal 7a+ (before October) 7b+
MTG (Jan/Feb2013) - Boulder 7c
LTG lets see how we go

Medium volume week

Mon - rest.
Tue - Works, bouldering. Trying hard.
wed - Fingerboard session repeaters,  works 4x4
thu - yoga
fri - nowt
sat - Morning, beach run with dogs. Stanage in the afternoon climbed up to 7b. Attempts on Brad were ok, but couldn't do it.
sun - Fingerboard morning, felt hard. Afternoon at Anston working hard and failing to get up anything harder than 7a+.

[Stubbs]

Tried Energy Follows Thought

Been to look for this and failed to find it on about 3 separate occasions, usually with a year between them for me to forget how rubbish Rocky Valley is!

[andy_e]

I like Rocky Valley, but that's probably because I know where two of the best problems are! It's quite tricky to find as most of the time all you can see is a triangle of rock that looks like it's only a foot off the ground. It's easiest to find by walking down the gully opposite a large slab of rock about 50m before Sweet Dreams. Follow the broad gully for about 50m, you should be able to see Polar Haze at the base of the gully. It'll be on your right in a pit.