[tomtom]

No knee bars this week

M:
T:
W: work/conference/family stuff in London all three days...
Th: Trip to Harmers. In great condition, though warming up a bit. Stupidly left my bouldering bag at home with boots/chalk etc.. but found an old pair of Mad Rock wall boots in the back of the car along with an old chalk bag that still had some dust in it..
Fri: Harmers again - I only had a short session on Thurs so had another quick one. Much warmer - and I was much braver than on thursday. Harmers is great - but I've reached a ceiling where I need to go with a spotter and some more mats, as I'm just lacking commitment for the high cruxes. Some cold weather would help too!
Sa: rest
Su: Helsby. Great session - nearly repeated Artful Dodging - and found a new line... oooooh...

Good to get three days in, and the Sandstone has been welcome relief in the heat. Still managed not to climb on lime all summer!!

[fried]

Back to work

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Indoor, crap. Checked out a couple of climbers who I see around from time to time, suddenly click it's Melanie Sandoz and GG Mondet, practicing for the world championships next week. Climb even more crap.

Wednesday/ Thursday - Nothing
Friday - Indoor, crap.
Saturday - leave for Mont Aigu, car starts playing up so I turn round and go home,crap.
Sunday - Hungover, can't be bothered.

Weight 76.1Kg WTF.

Crappy week. Didn't even smell any weed anywhere.

[andy_e]

M: DCC. Hot, sweaty, problems not amazing.
T: ClimbNE. Hot, sweaty, did some new stuff, had a good session with little shoulder pain.
W: Rest.
T: ClimbNE. Did a few of the comp problems, then went around doing loads of stuff really quickly in the last 30 minutes. Knackered me out and gave me leg DOMS the next day. Any hard work probably undone by eating fish and chips post-session.
F: Nothing
S: Nada
S: Zilch.

[Nibile]

Another good week, temps raised again a bit and still lots of teaching, seems like that my original plan to drop the afternoon classes can't be completed.
Mon - board. Very good links on two projects. Vol 3. Int 7+.
Tue - nothing. Work all day.
Wed - board. One project climbed, very close to two others. Mentally strong. Vol 2. Int 7+.
Thu - board. Very good links on projects. Vol 2. Int 7+.
Fri - bouldering with Richdraws. Very hot, hard to get going, then quite good.
Sat - weights at home. 2 arms snatch, up to 10x26 kg. Press 8x26 kg. Tiring.
Sun - bouldering. Climbed one project.

Second week of very low volume, high - not super high - intensity board training. A couple of tweaky fingers call for great attention. Tired at the end of the week but this is a good path. The last project climbed could allow some time off the board and the BM, maybe just some weights and bodyweight excercises to make fingers breathe...
Let's go.

[Dr T]

Week Starting    3/9/12
Weight      (5/9/12) – 79.1 kg
STG              have fun – getting there!
LTG              look at a grit or lime 7c at half term…

Monday   am   Sasquatch/Lopez protocol – Small BM slots – 6 reps with +40kg – felt great up to actual hangs – then really
                hard… only 2nd and 3rd hang 10 sec, otherwise av 7/8 sec – was locking high to compensate for slippery conditions
                but then slipped – less weigh in future when humidity is up (slightly mental too – finding focus hard)

Tuesday   even    conditioning (5 min’s between exercises)
                Press up pyramid – 5 reps, up in 5’s to 30 and back – 30 sec rest between sets-HARD
                Swiss ball crunches – 5 reps, up in 5’s to 30 and back – 30 sec rest between sets- OK
                Bicep curls (16.5kg) 10 reps L 10 reps R then 30 secs rest – 5 sets - hard

Wednesday   am   long (3 hourish) session on school wall – cleaned up remaining problems, 30 problems between 5 and
                        7b/+ - felt as strong as have done in long while

Thursday   pm   short (45 min) session on school wall solid

Friday   pm   1 ½ hour session school wall – felt good did all hard problems well except one – legs went before arms…

Saturday   even     half hour yoga – back/hamstring realign/strengthening

Sunday   Beach - Skimboarding for about 30mins ‘til the wind got too high – learning to throw left handed to account for
                goofy stance – then went swimming - tiring in the waves
                even    conditioning (10 min’s between exercises)
                Press up pyramid – 5 reps, up in 5’s to 30 and back – 30 sec rest between sets-HARD but easier than Tues
                Pull up pyramid – 3 reps, up in 3’s to 12 and back – 30 sec rest between sets- tiring... penultimate set the 
                hardest     
     

[shark]

11.6-8

M.
T. AM Tor. Humid. Did project first redpoint. First hard route of the year. Already feels like a long time ago.
W. AM Weighted deadhangs
T. 
F. AM Tor. Good conditions. Re-worked Anger Management which I spent 12 days on last year. Found it hard still. Psyched to go back. Stopped off at Garage Buttress on way back after Derek extolled its virtues. Big mistake. Terrifying scramble to the ledge and gnarly loose climbing on King of Ming. Bailed out. Eve Went to London.
S. Eve. Paraolympics with the kids. Awesome.
S. PM Weighted deadhangs. Late eve. Wine fuelled 30 min boulder in the Shed

Plan to go to the tor Tues and Fri. When temps drop will get back on the Oak.

[nai]

stg 8a & E4 before winter

m - tired and sore after Sun
T - PE top-up. only managed 3 sets 60s on, 20s off, failed set12 -30ss. Hard.
w
T - Two Tier, got on Why Me? Did it in two sections but couldn't fathom how to make the clips, probably have to skip the 3rd. Going back tomorrow to try it again
F garage warmup, reaches, assisted lockoffs, 3x10s 3f low slots, 3x10s 4f low slots, 5x20 pressups
s
S - garage warm up, active rest ahead of Two Tier tomorrow

Amazing the psyche trying a quality bit of climbing can generate, been lying low for a while but back now.

[205Chris]

T - Two Tier, got on Why Me? Did it in two sections but couldn't fathom how to make the clips, probably have to skip the 3rd. Going back tomorrow to try it again

I think I managed to clip the second with my right hand on the undercut and my left heel on the flatty by the first bolt. The third clip I made off the left hand side pull while simultaneously praying I didn't let go with a massive loop of slack out. I found getting my feet in the right position was key. Good luck tomorrow.

[nai]

Is that the first undercut after the reach right from the flatty?  I was thinking maybe off the slot two moves later before it gets hard.
Still think I'll skip the third, as you say you could fall clipping there and it'd be nasty, not clipping it would be a bit of a swing but should be ok.  And I've only failed on that move 1/5 times sooooooo.......

[205Chris]

Is that the first undercut after the reach right from the flatty?  I was thinking maybe off the slot two moves later before it gets hard.

Yes. From the flatty reach right to the undercut then stick your left heel next to your left hand before rocking up, making the clip and going to the crimp by the slot. I think I'd previously clipped off the slot. Those are probably the best options depending on what feels easier.

If you skip the third you should be able to clip it from above once you get the jug.

[nai]

You can clip off the jugs above, already checked that out.

Clipping off the undercut would be better then blast through rather than stopping to clip again, hadn't considered a heel so thanks for that nugget.

[TobyD]

When temps drop will get back on the Oak.

it was mint today

[cheque]

STG: 5.12a in Red River Gorge in October

M-Rest
T- Raven Tor. Bouldering between belaying mate on obscene Toilet. Had a go on that on toprope at end of session- fun. Didn't make it as high as the crux though...
W- Deadlifting- every session I've had so far I've managed 5 reps of previous personal best then added 10kg and done one rep- did 5x100kg but couldn't shift 110kg or even 105kg this time. Military presses, overhead presses, straight-arm pullovers/ chest presses.
T- Week 10 of swiss ball program- felt easier than last week.
F- Rest.
S- Rubicon. Sweltering heat. Trashed skindoing A Bigger Prize, which I thought was my first 7A- turns out it's considered 6B+.  It felt harder than that as I didn't use the best holds, but pretty sure I ddn't do the sequence that was originally given 7A.
S- Ramshaw. Failed on 6m VS 4c 'warm-up', took ages to do soft, moderately bold E1  . Seconded Valkyrie in the dark.

[andy popp]

Mon - drive back from Dorset
Tues - Work, I think
Wed - ditto
Thurs - problems on board, another distinct improvement, feel wasted at the end
Fri - circuits on board, more improvement
Sat - groggy sweaty hour at Pex, do about 10 problems, chew the fat with legend Joe Healey
Sun - very mellow day, cook typical Sunday dinner.

I'll say one thing for being really unfit, improvement comes easily.

[shark]

When temps drop will get back on the Oak.

it was mint today

The Oak? the temp? or both?

[richdraws]

STG (before Sept) - Boulder 7a new goal 7a+ (before October) 7b+
MTG (Jan/Feb2013) - Boulder 7c
LTG lets see how we go


Mon - rest.
Tue - Fingerboard repeaters 5x5 half crimp 7x3 35degree slopers. 4x4 trying to build strength endurance. intensity 7 volume 5
wed - Italy - eating and drinking intensity 8 volume 7
thu - Italy - eating and drinking intensity 9 volume 10
fri - climbed at mt Amiata with Nibile. Amazing day. Nibs showed some power, I showed some willingness. plus food and drinking. Intensity 10 volume 10
sat - More eating, but less drinking, flight home at 10 then driving until 4am. Intense as
sun - After a massive sleep did a fingerboard session 6x4 repeaters and decided to pop out for last light at Anston. Got there around 5.30 and repeated a few problems and ticked one I had not done before on rat finger slots (satisfying as my fat fingers were even more swollen from 4kg worth of wine, wild boar and porcini).

I added almost a kilo a day on holiday - pure muscle surely.

[Nibile]

I added almost a kilo a day on holiday - pure muscle surely.

That's the mark of a good holiday. And by the way, I wish I were as ripped as you with 4 kg on!!!

[Wood FT]

S- Rubicon. Sweltering heat. Trashed skindoing A Bigger Prize, which I thought was my first 7A- turns out it's considered 6B+.  It felt harder than that as I didn't use the best holds, but

If I remember a thread about this correctly the 7A goes up again from the break to the next high break, with the space inbetween providing the grade. I haven't done the top bit (i.e. havent done the problem) but then if it's anything like the bottom in style im keen. The tree looks in the way a bit up there but autumns not long away

[rich d]

2 weeks worth as I've been away.
Mon to sunday - nothing
Mon to sunday - nothing
Managed to put 1kg on due to all inclusive and 24hr access to free booze and kebabs. Was going to claim that I'd been practising mantling getting out of the pool
Picked up a really good quality cold from the plane so haven't managed to eat much for last few days - weight nearly back to pre hols 83kg. On the plus side elbows feel much better.

[tommytwotone]

S- Rubicon. Sweltering heat. Trashed skindoing A Bigger Prize, which I thought was my first 7A- turns out it's considered 6B+.  It felt harder than that as I didn't use the best holds, but

If I remember a thread about this correctly the 7A goes up again from the break to the next high break, with the space inbetween providing the grade. I haven't done the top bit (i.e. havent done the problem) but then if it's anything like the bottom in style im keen. The tree looks in the way a bit up there but autumns not long away

God - let's not open that  again...

[cheque]

S- Rubicon. Sweltering heat. Trashed skindoing A Bigger Prize, which I thought was my first 7A- turns out it's considered 6B+.  It felt harder than that as I didn't use the best holds, but

If I remember a thread about this correctly the 7A goes up again from the break to the next high break, with the space inbetween providing the grade. I haven't done the top bit (i.e. havent done the problem) but then if it's anything like the bottom in style im keen. The tree looks in the way a bit up there but autumns not long away

God - let's not open that  again...

  Here's the thread: it just confuses me. I went to the high break and used a different, crimpier sequence to Lagers' but not fussed about what grade it is really- there were a number of moves on my sequence that I couldn't do 7 weeks ago so I'm pleased just to know I've improved since then.

[csl]

Been absent for a month. Quick rundown, went to alps/ ceuse. Highlights- children integrale, gervasutti pillar, going to ceuse unfit as fuck and trying les collonettes and getting schooled.

Goals now

Back to e4 onsights
7b-c redpoints
Climb lots.

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July(Done),  to 165lbs by end of August. (165.1lbs on Friday!!!! - Close enough)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (11/10 done)
Climb two 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).  Moves done on two projects that are probably 8b/+ and 8c.  Should be able to send them by Oct.
NEW Goal - 8A+ by October

Monday - Route project - Friend broke the crux pinch - definitely harder now.
Tuesday - Bouldered at Gym - Low motivation
Wednesday - Rest Low motivation
Thursday -  Rest Low motivation
Friday - Hatcher's, hiked and took pictures for guidebook - worked on possible 8A+, did bottom moves, but top was wet so couldn't work it.  Put up new 7C, climbed about 15 other problems. 
Saturday - Hatcher's - AWESOME DAY - did one 7B+, then flashed a 7B, a 7B+, and a 7C, did another 7B, then added a new 7C+. That's now 2 7C's flashed. Feeling good.
Sunday - Hatcher's - Worked a probable 8B, felt surprisingly good, although nowhere near putting it all together.  Pieced out all of the moves but 1.  All in all did 10 problems 7A or harder...  fingers and body completely trashed by end of day... 

My whole body is worked, but had an absolutely incredible weekend!!!!  Motivation is back after a lull last week. 

[Muenchener]

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint.
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes by ticking several classics in the V/V+ range in the Dolomites.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   
Plan for this week: Active Rest. DAV mountain experience outing in Hohen Tauern with my son & his friend.

M. Hillwalking with kids
T. Hillwalking with kids & horses
W. Hillwalking with kids & horses
T. Hillwalking & belaying kids on easy routes
F. Hillwalking with kids on glacier
S.
S. Back from holiday. Perfect alpine weather & no climbing partner to be found at short notice. Two choices: boulder indoors on sweaty plastic or do a big alpine ridge scramble. Opted for the Blassengrat in the Wetterstein. 3km long, 700m height gain, UIAA III. Fantastic route, up there with the Cuillin Ridge as the best of its genre I've ever done. And ... (triumphant yodel) ... within guidebook time! (*)

(*)Am not about to try soloing as a way of getting within guidebook times in the Dolomites

[duncan]

M - Arch bouldering: 20 x whites (V0)
T - Arch bouldering: 5 mins continuous x 4 sets
W - Arch bouldering: 35 problems 'on the minute'
T - Late flight to Nice, pizza stop and puncture en route meant arrival in La Palud at 2am.
F -  Late start, pottering around looking for various things, climbed a couple of the easy routes in the Dalles Grises area. 
S - L'Arcanson / Liberte Surveillee combination (Imbut).  Checked out Paroi du Duc / Les enragés, the following day's objective: bone dry. Planned 5.30am start.     
S -  After prolonged insomniacal rumination, I switched off the alarm at 3am.  I didn't think we were quite up to the task. Another late start and we switched to a more reasonable objective: Dolce Vita.  This was very good indeed and the whole area (Dent d'Aire) well worth a visit by the 6-something leader as a change from the Dalles Grises or Carelle sectors. Grades are stiff for those calibrating from Spain or Portland. A big and unexpected thunderstorm hit at 2.30pm which could have been very unpleasant indeed most of the way up the Duc.   

3 weeks ago, walking around on crutches, I’d have probably taken this.  As it is, it was the 6th consecutive trip this year to have been severely affected by weather and/or injury and I’m getting a bit fed up.

Objectives for the next few weeks are just to get some trad. milage in before winter arrives.   I have placed gear on a grand total of 7 routes this year.  The goal of E5 seems miles off.