[boulderingbacon]

what is the best way to train for uneven holds? im finding if i have a flat crimp to hold i can bear down on it as hard as i like but on crozzly crimps or uneven holds where my fingers are at different angles i feel im week, whats the best was to train this as almost all holds indoors are even which i presume they are like this so they dont cause injuries.

[Wood FT]

whilst the fingers may seem like a team you must plant the seed of competition in them, each one vying to be top dog, so use a finger board and split them up, back two, front two, middle one, fat one, index one. The sad thing is it's all for nothing, the thumb will never be topped.

[boulderingbacon]

thing is though on a fingerboard if i separate them back two and so on i still feel there pretty strong as there holding on at the same point its when the fingers aren't sat next to each other at the same levels they feel week

[Sasquatch]

thing is though on a fingerboard if i separate them back two and so on i still feel there pretty strong as there holding on at the same point its when the fingers aren't sat next to each other at the same levels they feel week

Do you train open, half and closed crimp?

[Fultonius]

thing is though on a fingerboard if i separate them back two and so on i still feel there pretty strong as there holding on at the same point its when the fingers aren't sat next to each other at the same levels they feel week

All your fingers are obviously powered by the same chunk of muscle (although, different parts activate different fingers). These "different parts" (as far as I'm aware) are still joined to each other so it is quite difficult to pull down with maximal force if the fingers are at different bend angles.

This doesn't seem to affect the index/middle finger as badly as if it's the middle/ring pair that are bent at different angles.

Be careful - it's easy to get a muscle strain pulling too hard on these types of hold.

[boulderingbacon]

Do you train open, half and closed crimp?
i do train all types but i like to crimp everything which is probably why i find uneven holds hard because there awkward to crimp. i am improving open handed and training my weaknesses which is why i want to improve on uneven holds.

[Sasquatch]

That's what I was wondering.  I think as you improve you openhand strength, you'll see the irrgular holds will get better too.