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[Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor] (Read 5670 times)

shark

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[Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 02:48:15 pm
A direct and pumpy eliminate with a superb burly move near the top.

30m. Follow Half Decent to where it joins Indecent Exposure. Climb the fingery wall direct to gain the break and move right to join Body Machine at its rest. Follow BM through bulge but instead of traversing right climb direct to the break and overlap above (bolt). Using a hidden incut sidehold just above, make an extending move past the bolt to reach easier ground. Teeter up to join Indecent at its last bolt and finish up this.

Simon Lee 4.9.12

NB The bolt before the lower break needs extending at the moment. If my battery will hold enough charge I'll add an extra bolt on Friday. Steve Mac repeated/flashed the route after. 

dpb

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#1 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 03:05:10 pm
  :great: nicely done Simon, congrats

Jaspersharpe

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#2 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 03:07:56 pm
Effort shark. Can't believe new routes are still going down at The Tor!

andy_e

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#3 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 03:10:42 pm
Steve Mac politely waited until I climbed the route and promptly flashed it with ease.

shark

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#4 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 03:13:05 pm
Steve Mac politely waited until I climbed the route 

I made sure he never left my sight

andy_e

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#5 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 03:18:39 pm
 :lol:

Effort.

Dolly

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#6 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 03:49:37 pm
Nice one mate

Wood FT

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#7 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 04:10:39 pm
 :beer2:

Doylo

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#8 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 04:23:38 pm
Is the name a reference to Zippy missing it? Nice one

shark

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#9 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 04:36:07 pm
Is the name a reference to Zippy missing it? Nice one

Yes, (I did apply to him for planning permission") and because its next to Indecent Exposure. Cheers

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#10 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 06:52:57 pm
Nice one Simon!

mark

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#11 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 08:23:30 pm
Decided that 'The Zipless Fuck' was a bit too radical, eh?

Good effort.

Paul B

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#12 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 08:37:46 pm
Good job the Oak is drying out or else you'd be a lost soul and revert to hanging excessive amounts of weight from yourself and your wedge!

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#13 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 04, 2012, 10:23:36 pm
Well done Si  :great:

Nibile

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#14 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 05, 2012, 06:15:19 am
God job!
And at The Tor!

cheque

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#15 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 05, 2012, 11:48:34 am
 :thumbsup:

Jaspersharpe

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#16 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 06, 2012, 02:35:35 pm
I've heard this has been repeated by a girl using a kneepad at 7c+. Never mind eh. ;)

SA Chris

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#17 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 06, 2012, 04:09:07 pm
Beat me to it!

Apparently she used technique, grace and finesse too :)

Johnny Brown

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#18 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 06, 2012, 04:18:19 pm
Where's the ROFLcopter?

Duma

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#19 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 06, 2012, 04:30:41 pm

shark

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#20 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 07, 2012, 03:31:41 pm
NB The bolt before the lower break needs extending at the moment. If my battery will hold enough charge I'll add an extra bolt on Friday. Steve Mac repeated/flashed the route after.

Unfortunately my battery has died. I'll sort out a drill at some stage. Till then a sling on the bolt is required (not in-situ, natch) 

abarro81

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#21 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 07, 2012, 03:34:29 pm
 :beer2:
Now for the oak?

shark

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#22 Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
September 07, 2012, 03:35:26 pm

 

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