[Dr T]

Week Starting    27/08/12

Weight      (30/8/12) -79.1 kg
STG      a change….. start enjoying climbing again (and try to get some skimboarding in
                before the weather changes for autumn
LTG      7c

Monday   Still suffering from effects of the previous day’s heat stroke - REST

Tuesday   am   3 hours route setting
      pm   2 hours testing and tweeking (up to 7a ish??)

Wednesday   pm   dead lift 5 reps 70kg, then up in 20kg to 130kg and back again – felt ok but 130kg felt hard. 1 hour
                                on the static bike
                    even   Yoga – ham string/groin stretches  and 4 sets of shoulder/core

Thursday   pm   30 mins on the balance board only 5 or 6 touch downs
      Otherwise - REST

Friday      am   Sasquatch/Lopez protocol – Small BM slots – 6 reps with +40kg - ok

Saturday          late pm clean and press 10 reps 10kg, then up in 10kg to 40kg and back again – felt ok but needed a little
                                   dynamic movement of the 40kg, 15 mins on the balance board no touch downs even hour yoga class
                                   strengthen your core (http://yogatoday.com/videos/953125713) – hard but good, could do most but
                                   had a few wobbles….

Sunday      Family day – got in about 30 mins skimboarding before the tide ate the sand – fun!

[shark]

M. Tipped the scales at 11.10.0 Arrrgghh. Went to the tor. Humid and started teeeming down Dogged up project. Got thru Push Up at 2nd attempt and redpointed up to rest on BM but greased off the bulge. Second go managed a bit further clipping the second BM bolt. Awesome.
T.
W. AM Weighted hangs on Wedge. Eve. Shed. Attempted Oak moves/circuit. Was totally shit. Couldnt face doing AeroCap after
T.
F.AM Tor. Good conds. Got thru Push Up first redpoint but foot popped on crux due to concentrating on getting undercut well. 2nd redpoint to the last move! but not quite fresh enough to bone the sidepull. Last go to lower crux and then dog to top to strip it.
S.AM 5K Park Run with Poppy
S.AM Weighed in 11.5.8. Went to Tor. Atrotious conds PushUp start properly wet. Dogged up route. Greasy. Got very grumpy. Had a redpoint go and got to 2nd clip on Push Up lowered off. Decided to MTFU. Redpointed to lower crux (nearly knocked glasses off). Second redpoint got all the way to touch last hold near top!!!!. 3rd go fell on lower crux again.

Some good days at the tor especially Friday. Reined weight back in a bit. Arranged to go out Tues and Fri to tor again this week  so fingers crossed I get my project ("Unzipped") done.

[fried]

Monday - Back to Font but didn't have a mat, so went to Canche aux merciers and did some stuff yellows, oranges, blues. Some kids were screaming.

Tuesday - Back to Paris
Wednesday - Indoor session. Lots of new stuff to try.
Thursday - nowt
Friday - Indoor session. Backing off a lot of finishes.  Sciatic nerve is still tingling but after Font everything's easy when it's got holds.
Saturday - Nothing
Sunday - Family commitments have changed and it's now a midday lunch which means no climbing. I finally hook up my new turntable ( first in 3 years) I'm back in the world of vinyl YYFY.

[duncan]

STG: recover from calf tear/strain; perform adequately in Verdon this week.
MTG: E5 / 7b
LTG: various ambitious LH&F projects...

M - Deadhangs micro-session
T - Pull-ups, press-ups, shoulder stability stuff
W - Arch Bouldering - 10 x warm-up problems.  Calf a bit sore, pretty good considering. Train to Northumberland.
T - Family stuff. Ill-advised 2km walk - Calf sore and swollen. Lock-offs on bunk bed.
F - Family stuff. Lock-offs on bunk bed.
S - Train home. Arch Bouldering - 20 x warm-up problems & a few pinks. Deadhangs micro-session.
S - Saunter around (para)Olympic park* for a couple of hours with family.  Calf sore so bail.  Pull-ups, press-ups, shoulder stability stuff.

Busy week, some decent foot-off training.  Long-term goals require some brute pull-up fitness, this is a good opportunity to get started.  Weight up 1.5kg since injury, clearly the running was helping. 

Flying visit to Verdon next weekend hoping for some FL,MH&MF action, weather forecast great, spectacularly underprepared even by my standards.


*Anyone else been?  Aquatic centre and velodrome aside, did the venue strike you as all a bit tacky and unimaginative, or am I just a being snob again?

[nai]

goals - try to stay psyched for and focused on doing E4 & 8a rather than just having fun going bouldering

m
T - warm up, reaches, assisted lockoffs, 6x4rep repeaters 7on, 4off, failed every 2nd rep at 5-6s, 3F open handing low BM slots, so....
w
T - AM - warm up, reaches, 3x10s 3f OH, 3x10s 4f half crimp.
     PM - intended to go easy soloing but 11 degrees + Northerly wind chill was too good to resist, nick was incredible for August so couple of hours bouldering at Burbage West.
f
S - warm up, reaches, 3x10s 3f OH, 3x10s 4f half crimp.
S - was hoping to have a trad afternoon but Plattsy got stuck in traffic and couldn't make it so bouldering at Bamford with tomtom. Fun but Harsh, skin pretty trashed.

Not bad considering it's school hols, back to school (and work) next week so should have more chances to get out

[Duma]

3 in 1...

aims, as ever:
fix wrist
run

week 131:
M-
T- may have run, can't remember
W- physio, bit of a breakthrough session - manipulation under tension massively reduced pain in wrist under forced flexion. very pleased.
T - early PM TCA, good session, few new blacks and forerun some of the probs for the comp that evening, finish with sloper hangs - am embarassingly shit at this. Eve travel to festival, booze etc
F,S,S - Tramp around in mud, watch music, drink. Good times, but hard work.  Andy.

week 132:
M- travel home, recover.
T - recover, eve drive to exmoor, meet old friends, drink
W, T, F - camping, beaches, cream teas, open fires, beer. Good times. fri eve back to bristol
S, S - various fun stuff with 3 yr old

week 133:
M -
T - TCA bouldering, some new bits, still very weak in the arms, fingers ok, being careful of wrist - flexion still off limits. finish with sloper hangs again - still crap
W -
T -
F - eve TCA bouldering, still improving, still weak, wrist bit tweaky, may have to rein in the enthusiasm a bit. sloper hangs at end improved a little.
S, S -

still 69kg despite little exercise and much dieary abuse, I fear not much of that is muscle at the moment though!

[robertostallioni]

whats turned out to be wrong with the wrist?

[Duma]

strained the tendon - bone attachment of my flexor carpi radialis (sp?). apparently pretty poor blood flow at the bone end so fairly slow to heal.

[cheque]

STG- 5.12 in Red River Gorge in October.

M- Foundry. First time climbing for six days, first time indoors for weeks. Psyched to get on the big wall as RRG training but choke on a 6b first go.  Do it second go then flash a 6b+. A few attempts at an 6c on less-steep section but weirdly tired- mentally more than physically. Dumbell military presses/ shoulder presses on return.
T- Swiss ball programme week 10. It only goes up to week 10 so pretty pleased to have progressed.
W- Rest. Stomach muscles absolutely thrashed.
T- More ab soreness. Indoor bouldering (Notts) in evening. Semi-focussed laps of steepest problems with minimal resting deteriorates to more social working of harder problems. Need to learn to focus better when bouldering indoors alone. Dumbell straight-armed pullovers/ pressups on return.
F- Rest.
S- Malham. Rose Coronary wet. Two top-ropes of Consenting to warm up- it fees nails. Warming up on my hardest redpoint to date is far from ideal really. Get on route onsight that my partner reckons is 'about 6c'. It feels very hard- fall at third bolt feeling demoralised. Turns out it's actually Frankensten, 7a+, so really quite encouraging. Toprope it a few times and do every move apart from the last, which I can't figure out how to do without grabbing the chain. Toprope another 7a- close to doing every move on first go. Do a 6a+ in attempt to find a more suitable warm-up for future visits.
S- Stanage High Neb. Not feeling great but do a couple of nice HVSs and much soloing. Such a different vibe from Malham- virtually every group there is someone taking their mates out climbing for the first time!

[tomtom]

Morning

M: Nothing
T: Holmfirth (been there alot recently...) more crimpy problems - quite a nice session managed the rockovery 'Pit Viper' second go - and found a nice and harder variation for the Holmfirth Eliminate posse
W: Work
T: More work
F: Day in't peak. Started in Burbizzle W, falied on the Nose (with partial success) failed on WSS abysmally. A summer of more crimpy stuff didnt seem to have helped. Started getting bitten, went and had some food and wandered up to Trackside to get some cheap mileage before heading back. God I was shit. Really shit. One of those days when nothing seemed to work or move properly... proper unhappy - but had a good lunch...
S: Rest.
Su: Day at Bamford with Nai. Sadly Platsy couldnt make it, so Nai was forced to boulder with me Loads of cuts and bruises... some harsh rock there - and some harsh grades. Managed two/three 6B's... though the 7A+ rib thingy at Salmon boulders was a mint problem certainly one to come back for. Great day out though, feeling truly trashed this morning

Duma - interesting. I've had a pain for the last two weeks or so on the opposite side of my palm - towards the base.. not the same I suspect as the opposite side, but beginning to wonder what it is......

*Anyone else been?  Aquatic centre and velodrome aside, did the venue strike you as all a bit tacky and unimaginative, or am I just a being snob again?

I thought it was pretty good TBH, especially as 80% of it is temporary...  the wildflowers and landscaping was pretty clever to get it all ready, flowered and looking (almost) natural on time was a good effort..

[Grubes]

T: Holmfirth (been there alot recently...) more crimpy problems - quite a nice session managed the rockovery 'Pit Viper' second go - and found a nice and harder variation for the Holmfirth Eliminate posse

This sounds interesting ...
Yesterday James got the lay down start to pit viper apparently its brilliant. Sure if we meet up he will show you the beta.

give us a shout next time you head up.

[Stabbsy]

Turns out it's actually Frankenstein, 7a+, so really quite encouraging. Toprope it a few times and do every move apart from the last, which I can't figure out how to do without grabbing the chain.

You can do it without, but it's fairly normal to grab the chain on Frankenstein.

[tomtom]

T: Holmfirth (been there alot recently...) more crimpy problems - quite a nice session managed the rockovery 'Pit Viper' second go - and found a nice and harder variation for the Holmfirth Eliminate posse

This sounds interesting ...
Yesterday James got the lay down start to pit viper apparently its brilliant. Sure if we meet up he will show you the beta.

give us a shout next time you head up.

Rock up left via small crimp rather than right... I felt too long to sandwich myself in for the lying down start! but if theres a sneaky way

[richdraws]

STG (before Sept) - Boulder 7a new goal 7a+ (before October) 7b+
MTG (Jan/Feb2013) - Boulder 7c
LTG lets see how we go

Comic mostly done, just a few evenings doing easy amendments so had lots more chance for climbing.

Mon - rest.
Tue - Climbing Works intense but short session.
wed - Coached session at the works with Monkeyboy, was really good. noted some definite areas to work on. Strength Endurance is abysmal.
thu - Short works session.
fri - rest
sat - Burbage, nice day, a decent breeze on that side of the valley. Banana Finger, BF direc great problems as warm up. Tried the Terrace briefly (loads of tape on fingers made the top pocket feel insecure. Will pop back with better skin. We spent 30 mins trying to find Boyager and Monochrome, not tried these before and they both really good and got them both done. Tried to pull on some problems on other side of the valley but it was slimey and midge infested. Looked at Western eyes as a winter project.
sun - Anston, a bit damp, me as much as the rock. Accidently tried Last Stand going break to break and that set the tone for the day, I couldn't remember sequences or how to climb.
Did Blind Bat and Colt.

Booked a last minute trip to Italy. Meeting up with Nibile to be tutored in the ways of power. 

[andy_e]

Ah! Nice to meet you Rich.

STG: Do some problems
LTG: Do some harder problems

M: Nothing, stupid wet bank holiday.
T: ClimbNE, fairly decent session.
W: Nothing.
T: ClimbNE, climbed like a bad punter but still ticked a few things off.
F: Nothing.
S: Nothing. 30mins acting like a big kid on a trampoline.
S: Anston Stones. Got bitten to shit and licked in the face multiple times by Martin's dog. Did the 7A+ thing left of last stand with a satisfyingly balancy/locky sequence, first new 7th grade problem in probably 6 months. Got spanked on Beretta/Fine Art/Colt. All in all a good day, despite underachieving.

Plan for this week: do lots of climbing including multiple days on. Try and get some grit in of an evening. Crush a few more 7th grades at the weekend.

[richdraws]

Nice to meet you too Andy.

[Nibile]

Strange week. All in all a good one.
Mon - weights at home. One arm snatches up to 5x20 kg. One armers. Tired.
Tue - weights at home. Presses, triceps, biceps.
Wed - board. Tired, one new problem set and done. Then single moves on projects. Vol 3. Int 6/7.
Thu - board. Tired, very humid. Hard to get going, then not bad. Good links on projects. Vol 2. Int 7+.
Fri - board. Finally colder temps (25°). Good links on project. Vol 2. Int 8.
Sat - rest and bike work.
Sun - board. Even colder (22°). Great session, power was on. Climbed a project and did good links on other two. Mental strong. Vol 3. Int 8+.

All in all good week, started off being very very tired, so the choice to drastically cut down volume and to try and keep intensity high paid off. Colder temps are fundamental. This summer I didn't manage to do proper weights, due to gym being closed for the whole month of August. Managed to keep climbing on the board even with +40°, so not bad. It seems to be paying off, feeling generally strong.

[Muenchener]

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint.
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes by ticking several classics in the V/V+ range in the Dolomites.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   
Plan for this week: Active Rest. Family camping in Frankenjura.

M.
T. Frankenjura family outing. Belaying son on easy routes; swimming at Felsenbad Pottenstein; cakes at Oma Eichler's.
W. Frankenjura family outing. Canoeing, Pegnitztal. Cakeshop in Leienfels *closed* nnfn
T. Frankenjura family outing. Kayaking, Pegnitztal. Kayaking without a spray deck is an *amazingly* wet experience. Cakes in Velden
F. Wall, Boulderwelt.
S.
S. Train to Austria with son & friend

Weight stable at a surprisingly cake-resistant 76kg.

Plan for next week: More Active Rest. DAV mountain experience outing in Hohen Tauern with my son & his friend. If I don't post next week, it may be because two nine year olds didn't manage to pull me out of the Glacier Crossing Experience.

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July(Done), to 165lbs by end of August. (165.6lbs on Sunday!!!! - Close enough)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (10/10 done)
Climb two 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).  Moves done on two projects that are probably 8b/+ and 8c.  Should be able to send them by Oct.
NEW Goal - 8A+ by October

Monday - Long Run- 12.5Miles
Tuesday - Bouldered at Ptarmigan - Decent day photographing for guidebook, working a long-term project (11 years).  Dialed all of the moves! and made the best links ever....  Should go down next day.
Wednesday - 8mi run
Thursday -  FB-MED, Wt Training-deadlifts, Bench, Core
Friday - Run-Intervals-6mi
Saturday - FB-MED, BW progressions on Planche and Lever, Run-4mi
Sunday - Built camera crane! Excited to play with it.

Pretty good week overall.  Looking forward to next weekend - Long weekend outside!!!  Fingers going to get trashed.

[andy popp]

Mon - see last week.
Tues - board session, effectively still just doing warm-ups but much better than last week, more and harder problems more easily
Wed - work
Thurs - board sessions, again an improvement, more and longer circuits. Eve drive to my brother's in Bath where I have first ever encounter with a BM. The bad slopes (it was the 1000 - are they still 45s?) felt ridiculous but a cursory warm-up and a bit of chalk and they proved hangeable
Fri-Mon - mega festival, quite debauched, much less hard work than the one two weeks before.

Actually starting to look forward to doing getting something done.