[LB]

Reading the thread about Deadlifting I get the impression a lot of people use a gym session or two a week to build climbing specific strength. This is something I have just started to do after previously only (consistently) using the gym for antagonistic work, after suffering problems with a shoulder injury.

I have been doing two sessions of rows, pull-downs, onearm pull-downs and tricep extensions (with a rope) and some stuff with an exercise ball. Just wondering what suggestions people have for working in other exercises like Deadlifts, which people appear to be doing almost as a session in themselves, and any other exercises they consider interesting (heavy finger rolls seem interesting).

[Nibile]

Hey LB,
I'm quite sure that if you search the forum with some specific terms, you'll find a lot. Also, on Eva Lopez's blog there's an old entry about weights, here
http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.it/2012/04/specific-weight-exercises-for-climbers.html

I havent't done much weights at all this summer, but in general I have two sessions: in one I do normal weights; in one I do deadlifts.
In the normal one, I focus on pulling hard: wide grip lat machine, one armed lat machine, rows, one armers. Then shoulders, military press or raises. Then triceps with cables, finally bicep curls with barbell or dumbbell. For all the excercises I keep reps low and weight high. With triceps I do more reps (up to 12/14); and with biceps something in between (7/8).

When I do deadlifts (only a few sessions until now) I just do deadlifts and that's enough. Up to 1 max rep.

Recently, as the gym is closed, I did some weights at home, with one armed dumbbell snatches and two armed jerks.
When I fingerboard, at the end of the session I throw in some front ever pulls, which is a fantastic bodyweight excercise.

I hope this helps. The gym reopens tomorrow!

[LB]

I thought it may be potential beneficial to seperate exercises such that different muscle sets are used in different weight sessions? I think this is common practice among weight lifters.

I have a pair of dumbells at home so shoulder and chest exercises could be done after climbing sessions, say after a more fingery session. Then back and triceps would be isolated together at the gym. I imagine this may be beneficial as it would allow recovery to occur for the different groups of muscles seperately and therefore more effectively. Less is more I guess.

I've heard a lot of people say bicep curls can be of benefit and tried to look into it. However I still don't understand why they are helpful for climbing except, if used appropriately, as an exerercise for the antagonists muscles when pulling up and locking off.

[a dense loner]

Bicep strength is quite useful on undercuts, depends what type of climbing u do u may not use undercuts much. Oh and in roofs maybe.

I've always found I'm quite weak on undercuts at full span on a 45degree overhang

[Nibile]

I would not mix climbing with weights. Not even after fingerboarding.
To me one weights session a week is enough if I'm also training specifically.
And: the training you can get in a gym can never be obtained at home, so if you want to do weights for good, my advise is to pay and go to a gym.

[Moo]

Strange that dense.....