S: Blackers Hole and finally got on Infinite Gravity. Had a bit of a WTF am I doing moment first time I looked round the arete, it's just a little intimidating. First go was really hard, made it to first rest but didn't do first crux. Someone else arrived and their good beta improved the second attempt but still hadn't made it half way by the end of day.
S: Much, much better. Having being able to take it in a little overnight on the first go I went bolt to bolt all the way, only one move not done. Second go figured out good beta for that move, which means that all I need to do now is somehow get the fitness together.
Yeah right. Bit more to it than that but I'm very, very psyched. I still need to refine the sequence and suss out the rests, and I probably can't make it down until October now so I've got 6 weeks to attempt to get the required PE together. I basically need to get good at hanging around on ok holds at 45ish degrees for maybe 10 minutes!?! I guess I should do a lot of that, although any suggestions on how to structure things would be most welcome.
This is classic Aerobic Capacity territory isn't it? Circuits or routes with individual moves of about 60-70% of max. for ~ 10 mins, rest ~ 10 mins, repeat 3-4 times. 4x4 routes, 20/10s bouldering, bouldering board circuits, etc. You should feel moderately pumped but not absolutely blasted after each set. Try to make the move, board angle and hold-type of your circuits fairly specific to the task if your training facility allows. As October approaches, you could sharpen up with a bit of Aerobic Power (power-endurance) work ie getting really pumped.
I'd be hoping
Alex Barrows replies.
