[Dr T]

Just joined the 21st century and decided to keep an electronic training diary which will make posting here easier, plus it's a rest day, so I thought I'd kick things off.....

Week Starting    6/8/12

Weight      (10/8/12) -78.6 kg

STG      7c
LTG      8a

Monday   am   Sasquatch/Lopez protocol – 18mm edge – 6 reps with +50kg – got easier to 5 then 6 felt hard
                pm   Short warm up. Test hangs for future Sasquatch/Lopez – small slots on BM – 30 kg 15s and still easy, 40 kg
                        –  fight to hold for 13s but just made it….
                Even’   Assorted core plus 2x50 push ups.

Tuesday   am   Training at the Biscuit factory – 2 hrs – 12 or so V5 to V7 (mostly green and pink + plus some others) felt
                        strong but stamina (arms) is an issue….  Also hip/back flexibility – can be worked on but is residual from back
                        op.

Wednesday   REST – Even’    just 20 minutes shoulder antagonistics + 2x50 press ups

Thursday           Feeling aggro’ after falling out with neighbours so getting up for training was hard.
                        am   Sasquatch/Lopez protocol – 18mm edge – 6 reps with +51kg – very hot/muggy low friction day so 35 deg
                        part of warm up was a bust – replaced with the right number of hangs playing with diff’ No’ of fingers/diff’
                        pockets, slots – Lopez hangs felt ok – end of 4 week cycle – two weeks off – yay!!
                        Even’   Pull up/Push up pyramid 1rep of each through to 10 and back – 100 of each in total, no more than
                        20s between sets – hard… will be a good stamina improver.

Friday             am/pm   4½ hours route setting – nothing above about 6b lots of testing in trainers – felt surprisingly tired.

Saturday           pm           2hours 20 on the board – felt demonstrably stronger – Slopers stuck. Pressurising left foot still a big
                        issue – related to back op’?
               Finished with pull up/ push up accumulator – no rest – failed at the 8 pull ups

Sunday      Rest – felt battered in the am and hot and tired in the pm (restless in the even’)

Comments   
End of the Sasquatch/Lopez training for a fortnight – will go to the small slots on the BM for the next lot – will be able to do these at school.
Hip hitches might be an idea to help with the problem mentioned on Sat’.

Glossary/additional info....
The shed/board - 8 foot wide, 9 plus foot high 50ish deg symmetric mainly beast hold woodie with a 10 inch ish kick board
The beastmaker is badly hung in that it is over rotated by about 5 degs so the 35 deg slopers are more like 40...

Finally
Sasquatch/Lopez training protocol (with a big doff of the hat to Sasquatch for the basis)

Warm-up:
•   5 min of 15 sec hang, 15 sec off on a pull up bar - sets 1,4,7,10 are hang only, sets 2,5,8 are 5xpullups, sets 3,6,9 are ankles to bar. 
•   Beastmaker 5 min of 10 sec on , 20 sec off  – 6 reps on 35 deg’ sloper, 4 rep’s on small crimps
Progressive sets:
•   Hang 10 sec with 50% of the total added weight. 3 min rest.
•   Hang 10 sec with 75% of the total added weight. 3 min rest.
•   Hang 10 sec with 90% of the total added weight. 3 min rest.
Main Workout:
•   Hang 10 sec with max weight. 3 min rest.
•   Repeat up to 6 reps.
Warm-down
•   5 min of 15 sec hang, 15 sec off on a pull up bar - sets 1,4,7,10 are hang only, sets 2,5,8 are 5xpullups, sets 3,6,9 are ankles to bar. 

 That's all folks....

[Three Nine]

This lopez thing is such a fad. I bet in a years time nobody remembers it.

[Dr T]

This lopez thing is such a fad. I bet in a years time nobody remembers it.

Maybe.. but I certainly seem to be getting/feel stronger
guess that's what matters

plus to someone who enjoys the simple, straight forward challenge associated with lifting weights it seems an appropriately focused way to waste my time 

[shark]

This lopez thing is such a fad. I bet in a years time nobody remembers it.

Meant to be the old that are set in their ways

[shark]

11.4-6

M. AM Faddish weighted hangs (increased max by yet another +2.5kg) Eve Shed AeroCap
T.
W. AM Faddish weighted hangs (increased max by yet another +2.5kg ) Eve Shed AeroCap
T.
F. PM Foundry fingerboard benchmarking. Hung the slot one handed for 5 secs. Probably some kind of fluke or trick of the light.
S. AM Short play at assisted one arms. Drove to Devon.
S. Drove to Bude to drop kids off for 2 weeks  Drove back to Sheffield.

[Nibile]

Good week!!!
Mon - weights at home. Lots of shoulders work. Front lever pulls 4x5 mov. Beasted.
Tue - Beast. One arm max dead hangs. Quite strong on front2. Good on small rungs.
Wed - board. Tired. One problem set and tried. Single moves. Vol 4. Int 7.
Thu - reast.
Fri - board. Quite strong. A few projects tried, good links. Vol 7. Int 8.
Sat - bouldering. Medium volume, a bit tired. Very good tries on the project at the end of the day. Very close.
Sun - board. DOMS from the previous day, but good session. Redpoints on project. Got it in the end, in front of the camera. It's all in the mind. And in the muscles. Vol 6. Int 7/8.

Good week in general, despite two long days at work and not sleeping well and enough due to various problems.

[nai]

goals 8a & E4

M - still tired and stiff so half an hour easy soloing at Burbage North, fixed.
T - Tor, back on The Ring of Fire, had three redpoints best of which made it to within two hard moves but having stuffed up a sequence low down.  Thought this would go today, disappointed it didn't.
w
T - Stoney Trad, daft mistake, wouldn't try to boulder or redpoint at my limit full in the sun so why I think trad will be any different I don't know. not a very successful day

Now on holiday for two weeks in Scotland & Northumberland, will have the chance to boulder a bit and will hopefully rediscover some mojo that seems to have gone astray

[fried]

Monday- Thursday - In Albi eating and drinking.

Friday - Steaming hot drive to Targasonne plus easy evening session.
Saturday - Morning and evening sessions, very hot by lunchtime, lots of hiding in the shade and running out for a quick problem.
Sunday - Did a couple of warm up problems then felt completely exhausted. A diet consisting of bbq meat and salad probably isn't helping. Go to Andorra to buy some booze. Cook a big carbonnara.

[Three Nine]

This lopez thing is such a fad. I bet in a years time nobody remembers it.

Meant to be the old that are set in their ways

It just reminds me of fatties like my boss who try everything to lose weight except what they need to do (consistently exercise/eat less shit).

Silly exercise on jug with added weight, vs hours and hours bouldering at Tor or Wave.

[andy popp]

This is going to be embarrassing - this has been undoubtedly my worst year since I started climbing 34 years ago.

A very heavy workload (self-imposed, I've been very motivated) + lots of travel has led to little prospect of climbing, leading to not much point in training, leading to low motivation, leading to not going out and then back around. Oh, and various bits have been niggling and aching all year and mean sporadic bits of weighted pulls etc probably need to be knocked on the head for a bit.

The only aim for now can be simply to get out, get some movement going, find some enjoyment and motivation again - I know its there somewhere.

Mon: Work, deal with detritus of two week family holiday
Tues: Work
Wed: Work - afternoon bouldering at Helsby Woods, 11 problems to V3
Thurs: Work - afternoon bouldering at Pex, 12 problems/routes to V4
Friday: Work - afternoon bouldering at Harmers, 8 problems to V2
Sat: Sort camping gear for next weekend's festival
Sun: Work!!

Its a start. Main thing was that it felt good to get out.

[shark]

The only aim for now can be simply to get out, get some movement going, find some enjoyment and motivation again - I know its there somewhere......

.....Its a start. Main thing was that it felt good to get out.

 

[shark]

Silly exercise on jug 20mm edge with added weight, vs and hours and hours bouldering at Tor or Wave.

[Three Nine]

Surely not, as you have to rest 3 or 4 weeks between reps?

[Duma]

S. Drove to Bude to drop kids off for 2 weeks  Drove back to Sheffield.

Hope you popped in to Tintagel or Hartland to touch some rock rather than driving straight back to Sheff for weighted hangs and aerocap?

Its a start. Main thing was that it felt good to get out.

Good stuff Andy, see you at the weekend.

Aims:
fix wrist
run

M - aft: bouldering @ TCA, easy short session, first 'real' attempt at climbing since stopping in May. Not bad i suppose, expected weakness, pretty much complete lack of change in wrist is a bit depressing tho.
T - children
W- eve: run, 15m, 2:20, hilly, off road. pretty fucked, but good to get out in the woods
T -
F - eve: bouldering @ TCA, harder session, still weak as a kitten of course, but did some trickier stuff avoiding big slopers that aggravate the wrist. Felt better.
S - work
S- work

69 all week -crept up a bit, annoyingly.

[shark]

Hope you popped in to Tintagel or Hartland to touch some rock

No time 

[richdraws]

STG (before Sept) - Boulder 7a
MTG (Jan/Feb2013) - Boulder 7c
LTG lets see how we go

Mon - nowt
Tue -wall good session
wed - fingerboard took it easy
thu - nowt
fri - wall poor session, very weak and tired
sat and sun, drawing all day, fingerboarded briefly both days.

3 pages to go until issue 5 series 1 of comic is done. Then I can do a bit more training.

[Dr T]

Silly exercise on jug 20mm edge 18mm edge (will be smaller next set) with added weight, vs and hours and hours bouldering at Tor or Wave. on the board

 I would tend to agree with 3 of 9, hours at the Tor would be paradise but when based in deepest darkest Surrey for employment and family one has to make the most of what one has....

Surely not, as you have to rest 3 or 4 weeks between reps?

a couple of weeks rest from that particular exercise......

[Three Nine]

That is some whack paradise!

[rich d]

MTG Oct font 7a on grit
Last week 3 sessions on beast maker and one night at Dundee wall. Managed not to drink at all during week, but came unstuck at on Saturday night during olympics and had to have a drink last night to get through the toss of the closing ceremony. Did some stretching and one legged stuff too for ankle strengthening and rockovers.
This week's aims
Mon fingerboard
Tues to Fri working in Glasgow so one wall session dependent on work finishing time on wednesday, small fingerboard session on Saturday then a day climbing on grit on sunday - without the kids!!!

[Dr T]

That is some whack paradise!

'Tis all relative 

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July(Done), to 165lbs by end of August. (168.3lbs on Sunday)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (10/10 done)
Climb two 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).
NEW Goal - 8A+ by October

Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Wtd Hangs, Pwr-end, Weights-Bench, DL, Cleans, Hard 8mi Run, 2 mile walk in evening
Wednesday - 1 Hr ARC, 10mi run(wife wanted to do a long run-wasn't really up for it but did it anyway
Thursday -  Wtd Hangs - Was not full on as last two days were overtrained, rested the rest of the day
Friday - Bouldered Byron Glacier.  Climbed 3 of the best problems in Alaska. (added a 5star 7C+!!! as well)
Saturday - run 4mi
Sunday -  hike with family, run 4mi

Decent week overall.  Weight seems to keep dropping and strength seems to keep going up.  Power endurance work is starting to build and made a huge difference this weekend as two new hard problems were PE fests - 10-12 sustained moves through 15-20 feet of climbing with hardest move last.

[Sasquatch]

This lopez thing is such a fad. I bet in a years time nobody remembers it.

Meant to be the old that are set in their ways

It just reminds me of fatties like my boss who try everything to lose weight except what they need to do (consistently exercise/eat less shit).

Silly exercise on jug with added weight, vs hours and hours bouldering at Tor or Wave.

Maybe doing a silly exercise from time to time would help you keep your foot on for the last move on SB 

[cheque]

M‐ Rest
T‐ Rest
W‐ Dishes/V‐sits
T‐ Colehill Quarry. A 5+, a loose, horrible 6a+ (pulled loads of choss off before first bolt and decked ) then a 6c+ (one hang) by headtorch.
F‐ Rest
S‐ High Tor. Why did I climb on Peak lime for more than three years before going here?! Did Skylight, Highlight and Original Route.
S‐ Stoney. A few trad routes, some Minus Ten bouldering (working Lucians Undercut now‐ hopefully soon to be first 7A). A few more trad routes.

My wrist niggle (legacy of breaking my wrist as a child means its trivially easy to mildly sprain it) has cleared up today after a month- nearly three rest days at the start of this week seems to have done the trick.

Long-awaited Pembroke trip on Friday- my partner has now decided were going for three days, not four. He's also vetoing anything harder than HVS that's tidal or has a traverse. Trying not to let that affect my psyche though.

[duncan]

STG - Rehab. shoulder, rekindle psyche., place small metal wedge things into crevices in rock.
MTG - 7b, E5 by end 2012
LTG - A number of highly ambitious LH&F goals

M - Deadhangs - micro (and I mean micro) session
T - The Arch - renew 6 month membership - 5 mins gentle traversing.
W - The Arch - 10 x whites (half the warm-up circuit).
T - The Arch - 2x3 mins easy circuit; 4km run.
F -
S - The Arch with offspring. 20 x whites. Persuaded offspring to pull on, though currently far more interested in jumping off (and quite right too).  3k run.
S - Watched Marathon with offspring.  Suitably humbled.

Feeling enthusiastic again and shoulder tweak seems to be settling.  I am 2/3 of the way through my climbing year and have lead a grand total of 6 trad. routes.  Considering my main goal for the year this has to change. 

A major NNFN: The Arch is to close early in 2013!  Network Rail are not renewing their lease or some such story.  An alternative site is being sought but who knows how much effort will be put in to this now that The Biscuit Factory is up and running?  A local replacement can only be less convenient: the current version is 5 mins gentle amble from work and being able to nip over for a short (sometimes even a ten minute) session during the day has been a major factor behind my current climbing renaissance.     

[iain]

.....Its a start. Main thing was that it felt good to get out.

Nice one 

The Arch is to close early in 2013!

That's a bit gutting, glad to hear the shoulder's on the mend though.

STG: More E4 during trad week in Sept, and get much, much fitter for IG

M: rest
T: 10x6 pull-ups. 1x4min, 2x3min repeater sets.
W: rest
T: 10x6 pull-ups. 1x4min, 2x3min repeater sets. Improved intensity over Tues.
F: rest
S: Blackers Hole and finally got on Infinite Gravity. Had a bit of a WTF am I doing moment first time I looked round the arete, it's just a little intimidating. First go was really hard, made it to first rest but didn't do first crux. Someone else arrived and their good beta improved the second attempt but still hadn't made it half way by the end of day.
S: Much, much better. Having being able to take it in a little overnight on the first go I went bolt to bolt all the way, only one move not done. Second go figured out good beta for that move, which means that all I need to do now is somehow get the fitness together.

Yeah right. Bit more to it than that but I'm very, very psyched. I still need to refine the sequence and suss out the rests, and I probably can't make it down until October now so I've got 6 weeks to attempt to get the required PE together. I basically need to get good at hanging around on ok holds at 45ish degrees for maybe 10 minutes!?! I guess I should do a lot of that, although any suggestions on how to structure things would be most welcome.