Half crimp: more muscle contraction,
Are there mechanical advantages to the crimp vs frictional skin advantages to dragging/open handing ?
Is it actually more efficient to crank on a crimp or is it just that it feels better?
What flexors are being deployed for the different grip positions?
Is it better to specifically train to correct anomalous grip strength differences or to focus on the strong/natural grip (if uninjured) ?
Cheers Serps although I only understood the first and third answer What is the moment arm ? Can you train wrist extensors seperately ?Isn't bowstringing a bad thing ?Can you explain what the tendon force ratio means...
You can train anything separately but it's better if you train it with the specificity of the thing you want to improve at.
Fnatastic - Thanks Shark for asking and thanks Serpico for the solid answer.So parlaying the information so far into simple functional terms. Generally speaking, the harder the move from a hold, the better it is to crimp. The harder to hang a specific hold, the better to open hand. Do I have that right?
Quote from: Serpico on July 13, 2012, 02:34:12 pmYou can train anything separately but it's better if you train it with the specificity of the thing you want to improve at.Interesting comment when discussing FBing Any thoughts on how if/how much to FB instead of bouldering where there's a choice.
Quote from: i.munro on July 13, 2012, 03:52:02 pmInteresting comment when discussing FBing Any thoughts on how if/how much to FB instead of bouldering where there's a choice.There's degrees of specificity, isolating the wrist contraction bit of a deadhang really is isolation training.I wouldn't consider FB instead of bouldering unless you were a full time climber. FB is something you can add in before or after your session or at home.
Interesting comment when discussing FBing Any thoughts on how if/how much to FB instead of bouldering where there's a choice.
That as it may be, we all know that open-handing is coolest.