[Jerry Morefat]

If anyone has done this recently I'd be keen to find out how you got from the second to third bolt. I tried it last night and couldn't get anywhere near the move. Perhaps I was being shit, but it felt far harder than 7b+ to me. Maybe a hold has come off?

[shark]

Glad to hear its still getting attention. I'm guessing that would be the crux move in the holdless groove. Its a hard bridging move which I graded English 6c when I did it as a trad route with that move protected by an RP. I don't know if there is an alternative non-bridging way to do it.

[Jerry Morefat]

I'm guessing that would be the crux move in the holdless groove. Its a hard bridging move

Are you referring to the groove at the very top or the small groove type thing just after the initial roof? The bit I was struggling with was at the start of the route. Having pulled round the roof above the starting ledge I couldn't work out how to get established in the aforementioned small groove type thingy. The only method which seemed remotely feasible involved traversing right to a good jug on the lip of the roof, getting your left foot high and making a huge rockover to a poor two finger undercut in the base of the groove and then, in my case, falling off.

[shark]

Maybe something has fallen off then - its no harder than 7b+. I did reinforce a key hold on the start with glue. Hope  that's still there.

[dpb]

I remember this feeling really cruxy.

I've just dug out 2 photos of me crossing the roof and I appear to be doing what you describe.  After getting the 2 finger undercut with the left it looks like I used a right hand undercut/side pull flake thing with the right at about the same height as the left hand hold but above the jug.  No idea what happended next though, sorry.

If it helps I could e-mail you the shots.

Dave

[Jerry Morefat]

Cheers for the replies both. Dave, thanks for the offer of photos, but by the sounds of your beta I just need to get stronger