[shark]

11.4-6

M.
T. Noon Weights, weighted hangs and pull-ups. Eve. Foundry with Poppy. Re-worked last section of long project circuit on 40 degree board.
W.
T. AM Weighted hangs, core and pull-ups. Eve. Foundry with Tom. Few hangs, bit of campusing and more work on 40 degree board
F.
S. Noon. Shed. Did sections on Oak circuit. PM BBQ
S.

Strength training going well and good sessions Tuesday and Thursday though a bit disappointing on Saturday in the Shed. Weight back up. Can't see the point in restraint when the crags are so wet.

Had an offer accepted on an amazing house which is exciting but will also be a distraction and puts the kibosh on a cheeky euro sport trips for the foreseeable.

[csl]

Goals for July
Climb indoors regularly
Get at least 5 days on rock
Meet climbers in Cambridge to share lifts with
Onsight E5
18.20 5km

Mon- Kelsey Kerridge - First time back for a while. I hate this wall! Some bouldering then feet on campus.
Tue- Ely Runners - first time at a running club - the normal training session was replaced by a friendly 5k. I won it, but with a slow time.
Wed- Some Core
Thu- Nothing
Fri- Nothing
Sat- Westway - Had meant to go to portland/swanage, cheers rain! Okish session - really bad skin was the main limiting factor. Short bouldering session, then a break then an attempt at 4x4s. Only one ok set then felt fucked. Must climb more.
Sun- Nothing.

You're not the only one putting on weight Shark! I have put on 3 kilos since coming home, am climbing badly and generally depsyched by this shitty weather!

[nai]

goals 8a & E4 (lost interest in the 10 7s thing, probably the weather)

m
T shoulder work; 6x4 rep repeaters (all completed despite being unable to hang the 45s 5 days earlier); experimental campussing - how shit am I  found 123 hard
w
T trad at stoney, led & 2nded E2, pleasingly never felt pumped but did get scared, strangely more so on 2nd
F - 4x4 1 min on, 20s off, 4/5 mins rest, failed reps 15 & 16 -5s & -15s; 10km run
s
S - shoulder work, managed a barely-assisted front-on no-rotation one-arm hang, so progress; campussing - nearly got 1-2-3-4 and success starting 1-3 and keeping hand on 1 then 2-3-2-3, so further progress I guess.

Not a bad week considering, good strength sessions, good enduro session, good day on rock and longest run for 6/7 years.  Feel ready for some dry weather, bring it on 

[tommytwotone]

STG: Great North Run in less than 1:56:18
LTG: Font 7b

M - Nowt.
T - 5 mile easy run on lunch, then board session in the evening. Really not climbing at the moment!
W - Tempo run on lunch, 10 mins warmup and then 20 mins at 90% max. Managed 15 before pretty much puking.
T - Nowt - met up with an old friend visiting Leeds and went out for a lovely steak.
F - in work at 6:15am for a go-live, then did 35 mins hill reps in driving, diagonal rain on lunchbreak.
S - Much-needed lie-in, then off to a boiling, humid Leeds Wall open day do climb very averagely. See Tuesday!
S - Relaxed day, full English for brunch, watched the tennis then ran 12 miles in 1:39:48. Happy with that.

NB: if anyone would like to donate some money to AgeUK (who I'm running the Great North Run for), you can do so here:

http://www.justgiving.com/tomrunsgnr2012

[duncan]

STG: Rehab. shoulder for Swiss trip
MTG: E5 os; 7b rp by end 2012

M - Compulsory socialising with foreign relatives keen to sample "English Ale".
T - Hill run followed by more beer
W -
T -
F - Hill run
S -
S - Hill run

Scapular stabiliser, cuff strengthening, back stretch exercises most days.  Weight down a little despite best efforts of visiting relatives.  Shoulder feels stronger whilst exercising but no idea of how this will transfer to climbing.  Hope to find out in 5 days, weather permitting.

[cheque]

M- Rest.
T- Work do limited training time- V-sit/ dish combos.
W- Nottingham wall due to mates reluctance to gamble on weather- sweaty and cramped. Short and intense bouldering session followed by competitive pullup session on resin figerboards. Starting to get no-rotation one-arm hangs and big holds.
T- Rest.
F- V-sit/ dish combos.
S- Wandering round a showery Peak like a confused loner. Some traversing, some esoteric soloing, lots of walking/ scrambling.
S- Pleasley Vale. Sticky damp! Did three new (to me) problems and some soloing.

[shark]

In theory I am in better condition that I have been in for years, but i doubt it's very transferable to real rock. Unfortunately only a hotel gym available for the next week or so.

That's quite an intense week. Probably a good thing to taper down / not get injured. With the big change you are going to have loads of opportunity to transfer those gains to real rock. I reckon you'll be crushing after a couple of months.

[Nibile]

M - T busy selling the van, very stressed.
W - beast, one arm dead hangs on pockets. Quite good: for an instant held middle mono RH. Front lever pulls, 4 x 5 mov hard. Vol 7. Int 8+.
T - system. Lock offs, felt weak. Bad feet, no core. Left wrist painful. Underclings OK. Very tired from previous day, DOMS!!!
F - active rest. Climbing class. Tired, boiling.
S - Tests. 1,5 cm; 1 cm. 90 degrees lock off (weak).
S - Tests. One armers PB!!! Quite chuffed, something must work!!!

Good week overall, little volume, very very hot but important to keep going. Plus, the tests gave me psyche to progress.

[Muenchener]

08.07.2012

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight. Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M: yoga
T: weights, office gym. Turkish getups, goblet squats, shoulder stuff
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes: 5b, 6a+, 5c, 6b+, 6b, 6b, 6b, 5c, 6b
T:
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. PE traverses.
S: Yoga. Boys' camping weekend wth son & friend 
S: Swimming with kids. (Falling practice from 3-metre board)

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, very easy circuit - fine, sensibly took it easy, felt okay.
T - Gym, warm-up, heavy weights, small amount of cardio - good, did well on weights, PB of 1 x BW benchpress 
W - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, easy/medium circuit  - good, long workout, very sweaty, elbow good.
T - Rest
F - Gym, warm-up, heavy weights, medium cardio - fine, slightly lower weights but good session.
S - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, medium problems  - fine, elbow a bit sore but pushed myself a bit.
S - Rest

Weight - 11.13 stone

Good week training-wise.

[fried]

Mon-Thurs - Nothing
Friday - Indoor - Sweaty and greasy
Saturday - nothing
Sunday - Indoor, lots of volume.

Another week of unpredictable weather leaves me stuck indoors. 2 weeks to go to the holidays. 1 month in Font and the weather is showing no sign of improving.

Weight 74.9ish.

Started deadhanging this week and my fingers ache.

[tomtom]

Been away with work for two weeks: nothing.
Apart from a 75km bike ride (in 2:40) which reamed my arse

Onwards and upwards...

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Climb some stuff up to 7c+ that's currently underwater Do the brown 7c @ The Works. Organise a trip for October half term and tick summat hard(ish).. F8a eventually.

M: Abortive fingerboarding - shit!
T: PE + Bouldering @ The Works - New PB on brown circuit, slipped off penultimate foothold while still feeling fresh Didn't get close again  Did much of the yellow circuit - fun!
W: Working away.
T: Working away.
F: PE + Bouldering @ The Works - Didn't quite match Tuesday's highpoint but made it to the end crux before tiring. More yellows and soem more stuff.
S: Rest.
S: PE + Bouldering @ The Works - Screwed my warmup and got flash pumped, didn't rest enough and popped off at the first crux of the brown. Did some bouldering.

Focussed on doing this circuit (as everything else is bloody wet!). Close but no cigar.

This week: Try really hard to do it!! Climb on my board a bit.

:D

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July, to 165lbs by end of August. (174lbs on Monday-No idea why it won't drop.....)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (4/10 done)
Put Up 2 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).

Monday - Run 6mi PM
Tuesday - Wtd Hangs in AM(265# total wt), Run 5mi Lunch, PM- Campus and Core
Wednesday - Rest
Thursday -  Boulder Hatcher Pass - Put up new 7C and 7C+!!!, worked and sorted all the moves on an 8A+, but linking will be a bit. (9 problems in total)
Friday - Run 8mi
Saturday - Morning hike and a bit of bouldering in Hatcher Pass in the rain (9 problems in total), Since we got rained out and it looked like rain the next day, did a FB session of Wtd Hangs in AM(268# total wt), and a 3mi run
Sunday - Boulder Hatcher Pass - took a crew on a tour - worked a new 7C+/8Aish problem but no send.  Super psyched on this one, it's a really proud line!  Big day in total - 18 problems in total up to 7C and 12 hours of bouldering.  Put alot of work into the project.  Hopefuly some rest and It'll feel good to come back to.

Fantastic week, now if I can just get the weight to drop.  Finger skin is pretty trashed, so will need a few day off rock to recover

[James Yeah]

Boulder and sport outdoor 7a.

Mon - rest
Tues - Weights, Bench press, curls, flys. Weak.
Weds - Boulder Central, 2 hours, v5, few v4's and v1-v2 warm ups.
Thur - Weights, Bench press, curls, flys, some other bits, push ups, 20 mins ab ripper. Felt pretty good, bp'd 20kg more than on tues.
Fri - rest, felt really tired.
Sat - 1 hour Insanity Cardio power.
Sun - P90x biceps + back, 20 min ab ripper.

Feeling stronger on plastic lately, hopefully the bit of weight loss and strength gain will transfer outside when the weather allows.

[shark]

(174lbs on Monday-No idea why it won't drop.....)

Thesiger found that a 3 day rolling average was the most meaningful KPI

[Sasquatch]

(174lbs on Monday-No idea why it won't drop.....)

Thesiger found that a 3 day rolling average was the most meaningful KPI

174.1 Fri
173.8 Sat
174 Sun
174.1 Mon

I have this funny feeling that one day this week it'll jsut drop straight to 169 or so......  that seems to be the way my body works. Then it'll pop around between 168-170 for a couple weeks.

I'm trying to be optimistic

[shark]

(174lbs on Monday-No idea why it won't drop.....)

Thesiger found that a 3 day rolling average was the most meaningful KPI

174.1 Fri
173.8 Sat
174 Sun
174.1 Mon

I have this funny feeling that one day this week it'll jsut drop straight to 169 or so......  that seems to be the way my body works. Then it'll pop around between 168-170 for a couple weeks.

I'm trying to be optimistic

Know what you mean. Sometimes I can feel myself getting leaner but there is a delay before it shows on the scales.

[Duma]

aims: wrist, cardio.

M-S: wrist rehab.

Cold dragging on is preventing much cardio atm.
67-68.

[tommytwotone]

M-S: wrist rehab.

Must.
Not.
Make.
Infantile.
Joke!

[tomtom]

A was, but then I tossed the idea off...

[shark]

(174lbs on Monday-No idea why it won't drop.....)

Thesiger found that a 3 day rolling average was the most meaningful KPI

What I actually found was that a 3 day moving average of calories consumed seemed to have a better fit with change in weight than the 1 day calorie count. This was not very scientific. I was just looking at data from 2-3 months of counting calories and weighing myself every day, trying to find a relationship between the two data sets.

Sounds scientific to me

[tommytwotone]

A was, but then I tossed the idea off...

Very good - the slightest chance of being set up for a pun and you knock one out of the proverbial park.

[tomtom]

A was, but then I tossed the idea off...

Very good - the slightest chance of being set up for a pun and you knock one out of the proverbial park.

I really wanted to get spank your monkey in there somewhere, but it didnt quite work I was tugged in a different direction..

[Sasquatch]

I really wanted to get spank your monkey in there somewhere, but it didnt quite work I was tugged in a different direction..

Getting off on a tangent can be very dangerous.