[csl]

Goals for June
Onsight E5 - Got one second go, was close on the onsight
Onsight 7a done
RP 7c done
18.20 5km - not been running at all - shameful!

Mon- Pen Trywn trad - lead an E2 to warm up then tried chain gang, E5 6a. Felt like i did well on the onsight, committed to moves without much thought and climbed well. Somehow just got a bit flappy when i had got through the crux and made a stupid decision on how to do a move and fell 1 move from easy climbing. Did it second go. Then did an E3 and an E4 as well.
Tue- Drove around looking for dry rock, pass, gogarth and then ended up on the orme again. Relaxed day with just a 6b+, and an E1 and 2.
Wed- Thursday - moving out of Leeds.
Fri-Sun - Back home in Cambridge - its very flat!

Bit of a restful week after a couple of days climbing. Good to feel ok on an E5, should have been able to onsight but confident i will get one soon. Feels like solid progression since in Feb i had only ever climbed up to E2 and 7a+! Hopefully i can keep the psyche up with lots of running and some indoor climbing while home in Cambridge!

Goals for July
Climb indoors regularly
Get at least 5 days on rock
Meet climbers in Cambridge to share lifts with
Onsight E5
18.20 5km

[Duma]

Aims:
fix wrist
run a lot

M - recover from nights. sore throat.
T - sore throat
W - physio, apparently FCR tendon inflammation/impingment. got a bunch of exercises, stretches, and massage to do.
No climbing for at least another 2 weeks apparently.
T - wrist stuff. sore throat
F - ditto. sore throat
S - ditto. throat worse.
S - ditto. throat worse.

67-69kg

Feeling a bit more positive this week now I've got something to do toward wrist rehab. 67kg day was nice suprise too. Shame this throat has stopped any cardio stuff this week.

[tommytwotone]

STG: run the Great North Run 2012 reet fast ya knaa
LTG: Font 7b

M: 40 min "tempo" run on lunch
T: Cellar session in the eve - pretty lacklustre, just not psyched to climb with the heat / humidity at the moment
W: 30 mins hill reps on lunch break
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: 10.7 miles in 1:24:30

[nai]

8a, E4, 8x limestone 7s

M - nowt
T - Tor wet so bouldering at Stoney, was shit.  This one bouldering/hangs session a week still seems to have sent me backwards rather then maintaining. Equally could just be tired
w - nowt
T - max hangs (felt a poor effort but v. warm & humid) and shoulder stability stuff, 5km run.
F - garage, 4x4 - 60s on 20s off, 4 mins rest. Worked ok, allowed better recovery between sets so not starting a set already breathing heavily.  Failed final few moves or reps 12, 15 & 16 so intensity about right and failed due to pump.
ss - rested, did try to warm up for FB on Sun but wasn't feeling it.

[fried]

Weight - Too fat.
Monday/ Tuesday - Nothing
Wednesday - Indoor. Restarted doing some weights and pull-ups.
Thursday - Work
Friday - Indoor. Hot and sticky doing loads of volume this week.
Saturday - Go to a Birthday and manage to control my rampant alcoholism. So...

Sunday - Bois Rond. Hot and greasy, the weather has been crap this year and whenever I get outside I find it difficult to get back into the flow. Bone down on some greasy, razor crimps, fall off. Need to get out more.

Due to trying to find a new apartment my Turkey trip has been cancelled any I'll be living in the camping at Font for most of the summer. 6 weeks of camping, climbing, barbeques and pastis, bliss.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight. Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M:
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Hot, humid, arrived late from work with no real motivation or plan. Did a few routes.
T: Weights, office gym. Focus on shoulders.
F:
S: Summer alpine training begins: Jubiäumsweg, Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden. 13-pitch bolted VI-. Straightforward but longer than i am used to and tiring. Feet hurt. Alpine STG: successfully complete a multi-ab descent without anybody (a) dropping their ATC, (b) unclipping from the rope prior to clipping the belay, (c) pulling up a still-knotted rope end. 
S: resting.

[shark]

11.3-4/5
M Early AM Sport massage. PM Bolton complex. Weighted Hangs. Power Clean 5x55kg Graduated bicep curls Deadlifts 1x125 1x140kgs 1x142.5kg lifted but not straightened. Close to deadlift PB on second session. Pull-ups.
T.
W. PM. Max Hangs Heavy finger rolls Front lever and other core. Pull-ups
T.
F.  PM Benchmarked max hangs
S.
S  Eve. 3 good goes on oak circuit. Got thru the throw move (of the new harder version) for the first time (clip below)

No rock this week. Staying focused on training till Oak or left side of tor come good.

Tommy skipped a grade and ‘redpointed’ a 7b+ clean on top rope in his Tuesday Edge session with Zippy. Out of curiousity I did a strength benchmarking session on him.  Weight 37.8kg . He just about managed a Bolton complex with 5kg dumbbells. Did a 27sec hang on beastmaker slots with 4.7kg extra weight and 14 sec hang on the bad crimps with no resistance. Can hang for about 3 secs on central slot one-handed for about 3 secs (after I showed him how to engage his shoulder). Did 3 pullups with 10kg weight added. Not close to front lever even with assistance. Even though they were bodyweight exercises and I’ve nothing to compare it to I was blown away by his performance.

   

[cheque]

M- Rest
T- Week 9 of swiss ball program. After first deadlifting session much of this felt quite easy! 
W- Let down by partner so bouldered at Pleasley Vale. Unfocussed session spoilt by needless flash pump and chatting.
T- Barbell shoulder presses/ overhead squats. Aimed for maximum weight on minimum reps. Beastmaker repeaters.
F- Rest
S- Willersley. Rained before I could climb my chosen route. Failed on offwidth chosen as it was dry. Toproped it and learnt basic offwidth technique.
S- Willersley again. Led offwidth clean amongst others.

Another week of training followed by another weekend of damp easy trad, largely consumed by watching partners climb VSs very slowly. Living the dream.

STG- Do some sport, climb somewhere other than Willersley.

[iain]

in Feb i had only ever climbed up to E2 and 7a+!

That's a serious progression csl, nice one. Inspiration to pull my finger out.

Nice one on the move Siger, and good to hear there's a plan Duma. As for Tommy,  Does he know his Dad is living vicariously through his power club posts 

STG: More E4 onsights.
MTG: Try Infinite Gravity.

M: Rest
T: BM max hangs and strength work
W: Start feeling rubbish
T-S: Do nothing whilst being ill and feeling sorry for myself

Bit of a write-off this week. Off on a non-climbing holiday to Iceland tomorrow for a couple of weeks. My body will probably appreciate the break, and hopefully I'll get to see a real, smoking volcano. Not to closely though.

[shark]

As for Tommy,  Does he know his Dad is living vicariously through his power club

He does. I tried to persuade him to join but he keeps a written BMC training diary already.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Climb some currently wet routes when they finally dry.

M: Nowt
T: Board sesssion - New AnCap circuit session. Worked everything out but couldn't do the penultimate move, had a massive rest then managed it by the skin of me teeth, then did it again. Another rest then realy surprised myself and did all but this move. Good hard session.
W: Fingerboard - Max hangs and repeaters, bar work, half-levers assisted 1 armers.
T: PE @ The Works - Tried brown 7c, was a bit shit (forgot some sequences for the top half ). Still did it in 2 halfs and did 4 x half of it into the 6c(ish) woodies (aprox 40 moves). Finished by doing about 10 of the new yellows. Destroyed.
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: PE @ The Works - 3 x Brown 7c attempts, got through first crux but too tired to carry on. Big rest then did 4 x half 7c into 6c (aprox 40 moves) @ 5 mins(ish) rest. Tried moves on new 8a circuit, did lots of moves but was battered.

Good hard week. Foot's pretty much sorted, reckon I'm a week away from running tho. Need to keep up this intensity and get out and on a project ASAP.

This week: Away with work T/W so try and fit a fair bit in before and after.

:D

[James Yeah]

Goals - 6 pack. 7a boulder. 7a sport.
Weight - 156lbs.


Mon - P90x Plyometrics.
Tue - P90x Shoulders and arms, ab ripper.
Wed - Insanity Cardio
Thu - Rest day
Fri - P90x Legs and back, Insanity gameday cardio, ab ripper.
Sat - Rest day
Sun - Boulder Central, 3 hours, v1-2 warm ups. V3, v4 and a v5. Tweaked little finger.

Going to start upping my protein intake this week as well as doing a few bm hangs, need my weak fingers to pick their game up.

[Nibile]

Current goal: keep training despite the heat, without stressing my left wrist.
Terrible week.

Mon-thu nothing. Wrist very sore. 35 degrees. Very demotivated, sad and angry. Played a lot my bass, though.
Fri. Light climbing, climbing class.
Sat. System. Lock offs, underclings. Not bad but 31 degrees at the board, almost impossible. Good micro tests on the BM. Vol 4. Int 8.
Sun. Beast. Good session. Down to 2 sets of hangs for each hold. Boiling. Skin very painful. Strong. Vol 4. Int 9.

Very hard to rest first, and to train after. Definitely too hot for the board, unless it's system. Wrist is improving but I have to be smart. No climbing, just system, BM and weights for a while. Keep the fucking faith.

[duncan]

STG: rehab. shoulder prior to Switzerland in 10 days.
MTG: E5 and 7b by the end of the year

M - Arch bouldering - gentle session  ~20 x V-very easy. Shoulder sore at the time ie normal.
T - Legs
W - Short Hill run
T - Arch bouldering - gentle session ~20 x V-very easy.
F - Shoulder sore following morning; not so good.
S - Evening at Portland.  Couple of easy routes then did a 6b, Chappaquiddick, thinking it was easier. 
S - Portland. Warmed up on a long 4+.  Shoulder not good.  Sunbathing, belaying and shouting abuse/advice the rest of the day.  Good conditions for those climbing: sunny but windy.  Everything dry.

Frustrating week, I restarted climbing a bit too soon and a bit too hard.  I've tried to reduce the rest time after tweaks but 3 weeks was probably too short.  Unfortunately it's only 10 days before I'm in Switzerland.  On the positive side, I am lighter and feel like I am moving well and once this settles I should get back to it pretty quickly. 

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Outdoor trad @ Quadrocks, 2 easy bold routes - okay, obviously out of practise with easy bold routes.
T - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, variety of bollox - rubbish, sweaty, unfocused, hugely unfit, sore skin, sore elbow.
W - Gym - warm-up, heavy weights, 12m arm cyc 20m rec cyc - good, gave myself nuff time to do weights first cardio after, felt strong enough on weights. Up to 3 reps 100kg deadlift but not sure about technique.
T - Nothing - suck
F - Nothing - suck
S - Nothing - SUCK
S - Nothing - SUCK

Weight - 12 stone

Despite an okay start, overall a shit week of laziness, fatness, and unfitness. Appalling stamina on TCA circuits, fuck all exercise in end of week, gained 2 pounds. I am a cunt.

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July, to 165lbs by end of August. (175lbs on Sunday-Damn wedding and booze.....)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (3/10 done)
Put Up 2 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).

Monday - Wtd Hangs in AM(262# total wt), Run 4mi Lunch, PM- Campus and Core work
Tuesday - Run 4mi PM
Wednesday - 4x Wtd Hangs in AM (262# total wt), Hosted rehearsal Dinner=too much to drink.
Thursday -  Wedding=too much to drink
Friday - Run 6mi, spend time with in-laws
Saturday - Spend time with in-laws
Sunday - AM- short session out at Ptarmigan in the rain.  Did good work and links on 2 8a's.  Both may go next session out if weather cooperates...

All in All ok considering the family stuff.  They're all gone now, so hopefully I can get outside more often now.   

Hopefully the weight falls off quick. I think my body is just retaining a bit as I don't think I actually gained 4lbs in a week....

[wsmith]

Late post as I was away.
Some tweaks started appearing last week so took this week a bit easier and didnt complete the plan. No point risking injury at this point.

Week 25 of plan.

M. 35 min run.
T. Garage. 30 min bouldering. Aerocap - 4 x 20,10s.
W.
T. Warwick. 1 hour bouldering.
F. Warwick. 1 hour bouldering. 2 hours of redpoints on new routes. Tired.
S. Went away on family holiday.
S. Away.