I'll have a bash unless Sasquatch has time and wants to do it.
Cheers for looking at the wiki idea guys. I'm sure it will be well received.
Max Hangs:Maximum hang training is pretty much as simple as it sounds. Warm-up, then do FB hangs that are at your maximum with enough rest between hangs for full recovery. Many different version of this have been done, and the key is to create a structured, repeatable and measurable program. One such structured protocol for this was espoused by Mrs. Eva Lopez and been dubbed the Lopez Protocol.Lopez Protocol:Cobbled together from various posts on her blog, the following protocol seems to be what she espouses.Pre-requisites:1. You've been climbing for more than 2 years2. You can hang an 18mm edge for at least 35 secondsIf you meet these pre-requisites, then the next step is to test how much weight you can add to reach a maximum hang time of 13 seconds on a 14-20mm edge (choose based on your ability).The workout:Warm-up 10-15min• Warm up Moving the joints of upper body, shoulders, elbows, neck and fingers;• Following with 2-3 easy traverses for 2 to 5 minutes • Followed by 2-3 boulder problems with increasing difficulty; or several progressive sets on easy holds of the hangboard if we are at homeProgressive sets: 10-15min• Hang 10 sec with 40-50% of the total added weight. 3-4 min rest.• Hang 10 sec with 80% of the total added weight. 3-4 min rest.• Hang 10 sec with 90% of the total added weight. 3-4 min rest.Main Workout: 10-20min• Hang 10 sec with max weight. 3-4 min rest.• Repeat 2-4 more times.That’s all – This workout takes in general 30-45 minutes total from start to finish.The day before is always a rest day for fingers and pulling muscles. It is OK to climb or train other aspects than max finger strength later that day, or the next day.
Cheers, nice one Sasquatch!Is it worth adding a bit about when to add more weight? Such as once 5 main sets can be completed up the weight by "X" amount and aim for 3 main sets next session.
Probably worth introducing the idea, but that's just what I've been doing, not what she recommends. Her plan says to set the weight for each session based on how you're performing during that session. I didn't like that concept as if I was not mentally up for it, I would just take the lower weight and not dig as deep as I should have been. before my main sets I weight myself and all of my add weight to make sure I am at the right total hang weight, and then mentally, I know there is no excuse for failure..... It's really helped.
What are you guys doing if you fail on a set?
Reckon those moon fingerboard bottom pockets (number 5 on their training pics) are closer to 20mm than 18mm? I'm pretty shit at guessing.
pop yer wee man in and if it can reach the back flaccid, it'll be 18mm
This table from López course material might be of some help;