I've started off with 25kg on a 15mm edge
That's really helpful, thank you.
Quote from: Doylo on January 11, 2013, 05:15:29 pmI've started off with 25kg on a 15mm edgeSeems about right for what you're climbing, 8A-8A+ish boulder right?
I'm half a stone overweight at the moment though...
is it best to do the board session beforehand?Cheers!
So after reading about 5 pages I have gathered I should be ok to combine my gym weights with the dead hangs but to leave out the climbing till the day after, followed by a rest day, before my next session on the dead hangs.It sounds like it is best to do the fingerboard stuff first before any other form of exercise but it is more practical for me to go the gym near home before the weighted hangs (as I usually train at the wall just before work). Reckon it should be ok this way around assuming I don't knacker my grip?
Quote from: shark on January 14, 2013, 05:43:40 pm It's not quite as simple as that though, given that the conventional logic is to put exercises using fewer muscles and less coordination after those which require more coordination. I suspect that for each advocate of putting hangs first there will be an advocate of putting hangs second.
A rope access harness is ideal if you know someone who can lend you one. Maybe it's a coincidence but I was a lot stronger on the board today after 2 weighted sessions
I manged 2 extra sets than planned, the hangs themselves felt hard and I had to try hard. Reading posts on this thread, due to the successful 5 sets should I up the weight by 1.5kg for the next session and aim for 3 main sets again?
I think the big holds on the bm are to big to half crimp effectively. For half crimp ive just convinced myself that I prefer the "easier" bm. I find this a much better size for the fingers, if the holds bigger I have a tendency to drop into a drag when tiring.