Has anyone tried to test maximal hang duration on an edge?
Was that consistently 42/56 seconds at each time point? If not , and they are means, what was/is the standard deviation around each? (and ideally the number of times you tried so that the standard error of the mean can be calculated)
Thanks beast. Good idead doing some progeessions into it. Besides, which info could one get from maximum duration hangs, that are useful for training and climbing?
First 4-week cycle started off adding 40% of BW and ended adding 52% of BW, so a little bit less from that perspective. I did lose weight during this period, so based on total hanging weight, I saw 9% total gain during the first cycle, and a 7% gain during the second cycle (16% as compared to initial hanging weight). (most of the weight was lost during the second cycle)
Here's the link I found with the better description of her plan:http://www.climbingstrong.com/2012/10/27/170/I am obviously not following her "plan".
I don't understand any of the jargon bit can someone tell me if this shit works or what?
I'm gonna give it a go. Do you feel much stronger on the stone Shark?
That's impressive gains for both of you.I can't find it with a quick look but I remember that Lopez alternated good hold with added weight and very small edges, are you both staying with the weighted hangs on a good edge?- Scratch that, just found Shark's post
That's all very well but Doyle's fingerboard set up in his toilet doorway wont allow him to attach any weights (you have to pull on kneeling), you didn't think of that did you Simon?!
I fully agree with Shrak's statement "It feels like cheating". DISCLAIMER: A big caveat for those reading(not you doylo) is that both Shark and I have been climbing for a very long time(17+ years for me) and have put in the miles to refine technique. As such, focusing directly on strength is addressing a weakness. I would strongly suggest that those in their first 5 years of climbing focus on climbing more so they learn the movement aspect better before trying to maximize strength.
Fuckin' hell Chris that's got three rungs on it no less. High tec!
I would guess you were in a similar position to Shark and I, where you've probably been relatively plateaued for quite a while as well. You'll make progress on individual routes, and very slowly creep up the grades, but nothing major. This really changed for me after doing this targeted FB. Prior to this summer I had done less than 10 total v10 or harder problems in my life. This summer I did 12 problems v10 or harder, including two projects I had been working for 12 years.
I have blogged on this. It should appear in the blog pile within 24hours or you can go to it now: http://27crags.com/climbers/shark/blog