so who wants to stump up 23 quid?http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/19346182.2012.716061
- However, what is missing is any data regarding the progression/additional intensity that either group showed during the MED component.(Reduction in MED used)I hypothesise that there was very little increase in intensity (reduction in edge depth) for all participants during the MED component due to the physcial discomfort of training on such small edges and thus there was little traing effect as intensity remained constant (N.B. the training was done a wooden edge, not resin a la the Progression finger board).
- With regards to the Barrows/Three Nine comments about the increase in strength being due to a tapering effect (not training the day before the finger board sessions) the participants in the study were all doing 2-4hrs of "technical and physical training" 6 days a week (bouldering, PE, enduro mixture). So, although the gains seen by the UKB guinea pigs might be a tapering effect, this study doesn't support that conclusion.
For the MED phase I just used the same small edge and increased weight as I got stronger which is far more practical if you dont have a Progression fingerboard. It worked really well too.
Is "Sports Technology" some kind of micro-niche journal? I can't even find a impact rating for it......
Is "Sports Technology" some kind of micro-niche journal? I can't even find a impact rating for it...My Athens account can't access it (admittedly from an industrial firm, not academia) and a friend studying medicine can't get hold of it either.All in all, this isn't looking like this work has undergone the best experimental design (few participants, potential for cross-over between groups), nor the most robust statistical analysis, nor is published in a journal with a significant impact rating, which mght lower how stringent the entry criteria are for publication.(I might just be bitter: I only got one paper out of my Masters and PhD thesis combined )
Quote from: Ally Smith on August 23, 2012, 02:43:19 pmIs "Sports Technology" some kind of micro-niche journal? I can't even find a impact rating for it......Do climbing articles tend to appear in A* rated sport science journals? Maybe this is an unfair bar to measure it against. Actually what are the highly rated sport science journals?
Quote from: LB on August 29, 2012, 02:21:35 pmDo climbing articles tend to appear in A* rated sport science journals? Maybe this is an unfair bar to measure it against. Actually what are the highly rated sport science journals? See the Wiki training page for some other climbing related articles I've listed with links to the journals if you're bothered about impact factors (something like Web of Science or PubMed should give you Impact factors for journals).
Do climbing articles tend to appear in A* rated sport science journals? Maybe this is an unfair bar to measure it against. Actually what are the highly rated sport science journals?
Neurological gains are real, just transient. If you're trying to peak for a route or a trip then it hardly matters that its transient.
Out of curiousity and hoping for education, how would you test/measure how much of the gains were neural vs. non-neural?
Basically wondering from a longer-term perspective- If this concept is primarily nueral, it would be very logical to use for peaking (final macro-cycle), what would be optimal for strength gains in the 6 months prior? i.e. is this any better/worse than other strength options for setting up repeated strength cycles?
what were your gains in the first 4 week cycle (more or less than the 15% in the second)?Can I also ask, were you doing much deadhanging before doing the MAW routine?
It'll be fairly interesting to see how that progresses if you choose to do a 3rd, 4th, 5th etc.
Has anyone tried to test maximal hang duration on an edge?
"10 sets of between 3 and 90 moves" - that's a huge difference. Having some people bouldering and others performing stam-lord exercises detracts somewhat; it's hardly surprising that there might be some strength differences between those two types of training after an 8 week cycle!