[shark]

Seeing as you went to the trouble Dr T here's mine in the same format:

Hard to measure good hold

Day             Reps   Added Weight (kg)
18/06/2012   3        +25
23/06/2012   3        +??
25/06/2012   3        +25
27/06/2012   4        +30

23mm edge

Day             Reps   Added Weight (kg)
03/07/2012   3        +25
05/07/2012   3        +30
09/07/2012   4        +32.5
12/07/2012   3        +32.5

13mm edge 

Day             Reps   Added Weight (kg)
17/07/2012   4        (-2.5)
19/07/2012   4        +2.5
23/07/2012   4        +5.0
26/07/2012   4        +5.0
01/08/2012   4        +7.5
06/08/2012   5        +10 (1 rep)+12.5(2 reps)+10(2 reps) The 2nd 12.5kg hang was 8/9secs hence reverting to 10kg
08/08/2012   6        +10 (1rep)+15(3reps) The 3rd 15kg hang was only 7secs so did 1 x 12.5 (7secs also) and 1x10kg

The hangs were all done on prototype Wedges


EDIT:

Subsequent benchmark 3x10 secs on 23mm achieved:

35kg        28.11.12
37.5kg     22.12.12
40kg        26 12.12 (9,9, 7 and 5 secs)
42.5kg     10.1.13
45kg        28.1.13 (10,10 & 9 secs)
47.5kg       5.2.13 (10, 8 & 7 secs)

Started on 15mm edge
Session 1
25kg        23.2.13 (9.8 & 9 secs)

[Paul B]

shouldn't you lot be normalising this with your bodyweight to allow for (better) general comparison?

[Sasquatch]

For the most part I have been, this is just a quick comparison.  My tracking sheet has added wt, BW, total wt, % of BW, but I couldn't get the table to show up right.  That was why I also mentioned the BW loss at the bottom.  That way you can sort of adjust for the change in BW. 

FWIW, as a % of BW:

Date        % Body Weight
06/12/2012   40%
06/15/2012   40%
06/19/2012   43%
06/21/2012   46%
06/25/2012   50%
06/27/2012   50%
07/03/2012   52%
07/07/2012   53%
   
07/23/2012   54%
07/26/2012   54%
07/30/2012   56%
08/02/2012   59%

Cheers

[Dr T]

I'm a pretty consistent 79 kg

On an 18mm edge

This is from memory so the 4 and 7 might be a touch off but the first and last 2 are def' right

Day             Reps   Added Weight (kg)  %BW
1                    4.5        +45                      57%
4                    5           +45                      57%
7                    5           +47.5                   60%
10                  6           +47.5                   60%
13                  6           +48.5                   61%
Tomorrow      ?            ?

[Sasquatch]

Out of curiousity why 6 reps?

[Nibile]

Damn, I am so jealous!!!

[Dr T]

Out of curiousity why 6 reps?

Was going to do 4 but that felt good so went to 5

I'm rather forgetful so often mis-count, I have my weights by the board and have 6 locking nuts for the bars which I was using as counters hence being challenged to the 6th rep.....

No science at all...... 

[Dr T]

Damn, I am so jealous!!!

yeah but I've seen the videos -  you're clearly way stronger in the arms so I'm jealous back!!!

[Sasquatch]

Ahhh.. Makes sense.  I have a preprogrammed timer as I tend to do them in the morning before I've really woken up.  It tells me when when to go, and does the right number of reps so I don't have to think about it.

[Robsons]

Enjoyed reading this thread!
Reading Climbing Centre has just got their Progression board and a few of us are experimenting with the results - the words "maximum strength" were very enticing!
Having fully ruptured my A2 (left ring finger) 5 months ago, I am taking it very easy and going from day 1 week 1 on a larger edge than I would have...
Although tedious at the moment, I am looking forward to doing what you guys are once my finger is back to strength...looks interesting and gains are clearly measurable!

Only wish it was wooden!

[Dr T]

I'm a pretty consistent 79 kg

On an 18mm edge

This is from memory so the 4 and 7 might be a touch off but the first and last 2 are def' right

Day             Reps   Added Weight (kg)  %BW
1                    4.5        +45                      57%
4                    5           +45                      57%
7                    5           +47.5                   60%
10                  6           +47.5                   60%
13                  6           +48.5                   61%
16                      6               +50                          63%

Today (day 16) hurt - to be truthful the last rep was prob' only 9.5 sec...
Think I'll stick with that weight for day 19 then it's the rest period

After that I think I'll look to significantly reduce the depth of the edge (possibly to the bottom edge of the beastmaker - not sure what depth that is) and the weight - to be honest having 50kg round my waist on a harness probably isn't doing my back any good....

[Paul B]

After that I think I'll look to significantly reduce the depth of the edge (possibly to the bottom edge of the beastmaker - not sure what depth that is) and the weight - to be honest having 50kg round my waist on a harness probably isn't doing my back any good....

its about 12.5 mm on mine but quite rounded.

[Sasquatch]

After that I think I'll look to significantly reduce the depth of the edge (possibly to the bottom edge of the beastmaker - not sure what depth that is) and the weight - to be honest having 50kg round my waist on a harness probably isn't doing my back any good....

its about 12.5 mm on mine but quite rounded.

It's really hard to say due to the rounding, from the back of the slot to the outside on mine was close to 18mm, but it started rounding at about 10-11mm.  That's why I decided not to use it....

[shark]

Can someone decode this training notation from her blog which I think is a passing reference to the mysterious intermittent hangs:

3-5 sets x 4-5reps x 10'' :5''/1'-3'

[Serpico]

3-5 sets x 4-5reps x 10'' :5''/1'-3'

Total guesswork, but...
3-5 sets of 4-5 repetitions of 10second hangs, 5 seconds between hangs, 1-3 minutes between sets.
Have you got a link to her blog entry? it might provide some context.

[robertostallioni]

 

[shark]

3-5 sets x 4-5reps x 10'' :5''/1'-3'

Total guesswork, but...
3-5 sets of 4-5 repetitions of 10second hangs, 5 seconds between hangs, 1-3 minutes between sets.

I have been comparing to some of other notations and I think it is
3-5 sets of 4-5 repetitions of 10second hangs (Where max hang time is 15 seconds) 1-3 minutes between sets though that doesnt give the rest between reps.

Have you got a link to her blog entry? it might provide some context.

It's in the discussion following her post dated Tuesday, June 5, 2012:

Lastly, given your current level, I recommend you to follow the cycles above with 8 weeks of intermittent dead-hangs, which improve your strength via hypertrophy along with improvements in strength-endurance (these will be noticeable after the whole 8 weeks):
3-5 sets x 4-5reps x 10'' :5''/1'-3'

There are two variants you can choose from:
- Without added weight, using the smallest possible edge that allows you to finish the entire session.
- With added weight, on larger (18-14mm) edges and with a load that allows you to carry out the whole session.
I always recommend starting with the easiest and less agressive one, without added weight.

[Serpico]

from this:

   b) 4 weeks of 3-4-5-5 sets of dead hangs on the smallest edge that you can hold for 10''(3) (effort level of 3) and resting 3' between sets. By the way, for the second week this would be expressed like this: 4 x 10''(3) :3'. The figure after the colon denotes the resting time.

I'd say that the rest between reps is 5 seconds and she hasn't specified an effort level.

[Sasquatch]

from this:

   b) 4 weeks of 3-4-5-5 sets of dead hangs on the smallest edge that you can hold for 10''(3) (effort level of 3) and resting 3' between sets. By the way, for the second week this would be expressed like this: 4 x 10''(3) :3'. The figure after the colon denotes the resting time.

I'd say that the rest between reps is 5 seconds and she hasn't specified an effort level.

I would agree as she states:

There are two variants you can choose from:
- Without added weight, using the smallest possible edge that allows you to finish the entire session.
- With added weight, on larger (18-14mm) edges and with a load that allows you to carry out the whole session.
I always recommend starting with the easiest and less agressive one, without added weight.

indicating that the effort level should such as to allow you to finish the entire session.

[shark]

Yes. Word reached  me (cheers Dave  ) that in an article in Escaler
she stated that the hold should be the smallest possible that allows you to complete all the sets and the structure is 3 sets of 4 hangs of 10 secs with 30 seconds between hangs and 3mins between sets.

As far as as abbreviation goes, less doesn't necessarily mean more.

[rosmat]

I asked this via facebook.

3-5 sets in a session
4-5 repetitions per set of 10 second hangs with 5 seconds rest between hangs.
1-3 minutes rest between each set.

No indication of effort level but I imagine it is either as small a hold /  or as much weight as you can complete each set with.

[standard]

I've just done my max weight test on my 18mm edge, and I ran out of climbing gear/weight to attach to myself. Oops.
So off to town tomorrow to buy some proper weights.

I assume everyone is half crimping?

[shark]

I've just done my max weight test on my 18mm edge, and I ran out of climbing gear/weight to attach to myself. Oops.
So off to town tomorrow to buy some proper weights.

I assume everyone is half crimping?

Weights are best though you could fill those large water bottles as an alternative. Decathlon is reasonable priced for weights.

I think strict half crimping is best to start with though Eva says it is ok to progress to open hand as the cycles progress when getting on smaller holds.

[rosmat]

Can someone who has access to the Progression Training plans take a high quality photo and post the image on here? 

It would be good for all to have a look at the programme recommended in it's complete form.

[shark]

Can someone who has access to the Progression Training plans take a high quality photo and post the image on here? 

It would be good for all to have a look at the programme recommended in it's complete form.

It wouldn't be fair on Eva and probably a breach of copyright to publish it here without permission.