There's a review of the boards over on the other channel by Gore which also has a bit more information on her research. It seems the boards will also be available to buy at selected walls like The Depot soon.
For UK Trade Sales then please contact Chris Gore at
The suggested retail price of the boards is £200
the dimensions are 38cm x 58cm x 15cm
what's to stop you just getting hold of a training plan and using another board? – absolutely nothing
"In my research, I found that increasing maximum finger strength also increases finger endurance without performing finger endurance training. Also, that this gain is bigger than the one obtained by training only finger endurance without previously having developed a high enough level of maximum finger strength"
One group carried out the training of the first study: - The participants with the lower level of finger strength experienced about 47% gain in finger maximum strength (maximum weight supported for 5 seconds on 15mm) and 40% in finger strength-endurance (maximum time on 11mm). - The scores for those with a high level of finger strength went up 9% and 22% respectively. Other group did intermittent dead hangs without added weight: - The ones with the lower level of initial finger maximum strength went up by 25% in maximum strength and 65% in finger strength-endurance. - In the higher strength subgroup the improvements were around 3% and 29%.”
Quote from: UKC infomercialThe suggested retail price of the boards is £200Quote from: UKC infomercialthe dimensions are 38cm x 58cm x 15cmQuote from: UKC infomercialwhat's to stop you just getting hold of a training plan and using another board? – absolutely nothingCan't see them being big sellers...
I'm not trying to be a twat (or have a particularly negative attitude towards this) but an article posted as an independent gear review should be that, am I missing something?
In her blog Eva says:Quote"In my research, I found that increasing maximum finger strength also increases finger endurance without performing finger endurance training. Also, that this gain is bigger than the one obtained by training only finger endurance without previously having developed a high enough level of maximum finger strength"This seems at odds with the results cited on UKC:QuoteOne group carried out the training of the first study: - The participants with the lower level of finger strength experienced about 47% gain in finger maximum strength (maximum weight supported for 5 seconds on 15mm) and 40% in finger strength-endurance (maximum time on 11mm). - The scores for those with a high level of finger strength went up 9% and 22% respectively. Other group did intermittent dead hangs without added weight: - The ones with the lower level of initial finger maximum strength went up by 25% in maximum strength and 65% in finger strength-endurance. - In the higher strength subgroup the improvements were around 3% and 29%.” I assume intermittent hangs are "repeaters"
Quote from: shark on July 25, 2012, 12:49:53 pmIn her blog Eva says:Quote"In my research, I found that increasing maximum finger strength also increases finger endurance without performing finger endurance training. Also, that this gain is bigger than the one obtained by training only finger endurance without previously having developed a high enough level of maximum finger strength"This seems at odds with the results cited on UKC:QuoteOne group carried out the training of the first study: - The participants with the lower level of finger strength experienced about 47% gain in finger maximum strength (maximum weight supported for 5 seconds on 15mm) and 40% in finger strength-endurance (maximum time on 11mm). - The scores for those with a high level of finger strength went up 9% and 22% respectively. Other group did intermittent dead hangs without added weight: - The ones with the lower level of initial finger maximum strength went up by 25% in maximum strength and 65% in finger strength-endurance. - In the higher strength subgroup the improvements were around 3% and 29%.” I assume intermittent hangs are "repeaters"I don't see it as being at odds, which bit did you mean specifically? I'm assuming that she wanted to compare strength training protocols, so the intermittent hangs/repeaters were supposed to be a strength exercise that turned out to increase strength to a degree, and endurance to a greater degree, that is to say that without the strength increase the endurance increase wouldn't have been as great. By comparison it appears she's also done 'pure' endurance exercises where the endurance increase hasn't been as great because there wasn't a strength increase, submaximal endurance being a factor of maximal strength. I think she includes a repeater style exercise for endurance on the training poster.
I'm trying to be less of a cynic (honest) I just struggle when there's growing 'hype' which is based on a paper that isn't yet peer reviewed and available to read (I'm surely not the only one?). That doesn't mean I don't believe her findings but the process (even if it is flawed) exists for a reason.ps - Eva has been very helpful and offered to answer the questions I posed to her after requesting a copy of the paper.
A piece of wood drilled to a small reinforced sheet of ply wood. Just measure it sand a little to get a comfy rounded leading edgeand go for it.
My "Lopez" edges sit either side of my beastmaker.....
I think you should all read her written as gains in "Strength endurance" not "endurance".
A world where endurance increases (or is measured) on a 11mm rung a very weird one.
That ain't endurance by a long shot. At least, not metabolically.
How do you feel those gains have translated to your climbing?
How long have you been doing this sort of structure for sasquatch?
Not always the case, but I do feel in a position of "if I can hit it I can hold it" way more often