[Krank]

It seems to me that one could use his training time in a more economic and effective way.

pull ups???

[Nibile]

 

[shark]

It seems to me that one could use his training time in a more economic and effective way.

pull ups???

Don't knock pull-ups

quote double world champion in bouldering Dmitry Sharafutdinov (who can do 75 pull-ups static and 110 dynamic)

"First, the maximum number of pull-ups on the bar as well as on the fingerboard. Before winning the world champion in 2007 I prepared by doing 10' to 20,000 pull-ups per month. In the morning I was training between 6 to 10. In the evening from 15.00 to 22.00. This is a very difficult method of training. I do not recommend it. An exercise on the bar is 20 sets of 20 times, rest between sets 3 - 4 minutes. Then fingerboard, active grip 15 sets of 15 times.

Before winning in 2011, I did 3' - 5,000 per month as I increased the load using weight belts etc. Jens, you have to say that it is very difficult and dangerous. The 2007 method is hard for your heart and the technique for 2011 puts a lot of stress on the joints. )

[Baldy]

 

[Nibile]

with a body capable of that volume of training, with some serious coaching (instead of the gulag style "grab the bar and pull 'til you puke and even beyond") he'd have won the WC from 2007 to 2012 in my opinion.

[Baldy]

Depends whether the reason he missed so many WC rounds was because he was injured or just not bothered?
It wouldnt suprise me if he was injured, but it is also prety pricey to jet around the world like that.

[rodma]

Depends whether the reason he missed so many WC rounds was because he was injured or just not bothered?
It wouldnt suprise me if he was injured, but it is also prety pricey to jet around the world Europe like that.

Only one round that is difficult to get to usually, most people used to just skip vail and do the european ones

[Baldy]

 

There was a round in china this year wasnt there?


Obviously not relevant to previous years, but it could start to become an issue for quite a lot of competitors.

[rodma]

Good spot there, I think I'm on a spraying bullshit roll at the moment.

Yeah, it would definitely be an issue. I'm sure there would be far fewer regular competitors doing the full circuit if it spread out to more continents.

Marius wrote (or maybe said at a lecture, but i can't fully recall) that the world cup wasn't really a world cup when all of the rounds were in Europe and you couldn't even fly in to half of the destinations (this was 11-ish years ago mind), so it wasn't really fair on the yanks let alone anyone else not based in Europe.

Sorry for keeping it 

[slackline]

There was a round in china this year wasnt there?


Obviously not relevant to previous years, but it could start to become an issue for quite a lot of competitors.

Except the Chinese   (Similar issues for western snooker players who aren't fairing too well in the current Wuxi tournament).

[Nibile]

A useful variation.

[Nibile]

Did these in a more structured way, the other day. Great!
Just 4 sets of 5 raises gave me Doms for the entire following day and today still a little. Especially lats and upper abs!!
Will put it in the usual routines.

[Nibile]

I resurrect this topic for this reason: yesterday I went to the gym to lift. On T-nation I had seen a video of a progressive warm up routine for snatches. I tried that as the final warm up yesterday, and the last excercise of the routine is a snatch squat. So, with the barbell over your head, you fully squat down and up.
It seems trivial, but it's not.
Just doing a few short sets wi a 20 kg barbell worked my back, shoulders and abs in a completely different way.
I think it could be very very beneficial for core tension and front levers of all kind.
With a wider grip it felt a bit easier because you can lock ypur shoulder blades and somehow you gain more stability. With a narrower grip it felt purely brutal.

[Stubbs]

Hey Nibs overhead squats (the exercise you describe) have come up a few times on the forum, I find them really hard, especially with good form, I think doing it with a 20kg bar is impressive!  They really show up poor shoulder and hip mobility and weaknesses in the back.

[erm, sam]

Self Coached Climber bloke is doing some blog posts on Front Levers and body tension and stuff. First one here:

http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/2012/09/front-levers-and-climbing/

[richdraws]

Hips should be higher so there is less piking (angle) at the joint. To achieve this puts some strain on the buttocks and lower back muscles. Also the amount of squeeze generated by all the muscles of the chest can not be overstated. That internal pressure helps to stabilise the shoulder girdle.

Anyway front levers have little to do with climbing swinging to a foot hold is more efficient. Once the foot is there an entirely different set of muscles and position is required to hold it. Usually hamstrings and toes?

Am I being overly dismissive? Has anyone found front levers useful to climbing?

[ducko]

I have been doing front levers recently not as often as I should be but I feel like my core has got stronger since doing it and seem to be keeping my feet on lots more than usual