[csl]

3 weeks of update from me cos i've been away.

Goals for June
Onsight E5
Onsight 7a done
RP 7c
18.20 5km

28th-3rd
Mon- Wales Cwm Clas Bach - awesome crag - did Rimsky Korsakov E4/5 6a with one fall, the stabbing and flashed beasts of the field E4 6a. Generally felt pretty good, should have onsighted rimsky really tho! Then a couple of E1's on Craig Dhu
Tue- Lubyanka - i had wanted to do either the skull or great wall so wasn't to psyched for this, as a result bottled the bold top pitch (didn't find a crucial cam placement which was in the guide i didn't read) - ok day out tho!
Wed- Kilnsey - 4x RPs on Comedy - got pretty close, fell at last hard move of first section because of forgotten beta and silly mistakes, but pulled on and linked to top so should go next time i try it.
Thur- Depot - lots of circuit board stuff @ about 75 moves and some other stuff.
Fri-
Sat- Travelled to Ceuse
Sun- Same

4th-10th
mon- Ceuse - highlight was first 7a onsight
tue- lazy day - tried bibendum once and did the hardest 6a+ ever
wed- onsighted lapinerie 7b and some 6c's
thu- tried lots of stuff, one bolt to bolt on vagabond.
fri- rest
sat- had 3 red points on vagabond, first one was good, rest were shit.
sun- inesperance on the grand face - 6c+ pitch was incred. Rain shat on us on last pitch.

11th-17th
mon- rest
tue- 3 more red points on vagabond - set off with freezing fingers and various other stupid mistakes. Highpoint was reaching to the jug at the end of the section of flat holds. Hadn't worked a foot sequence and fell.
wed- ill
thu- ill - but onsighted another 7a.
fri- came home
sat- same
sun-

Gutted to have not got Vagabond - should have really but kept setting off with freezing cold hands and eventually failed cos i hadn't checked the sequence properly on a bit i thought would be too easy to fall off. Got ill and never made it back on it.

[shark]

M-F Resting
S. Malham. Rainy horrible weather but amazingly route was dry and conds excellent. Shitting myself that the extra 4lbs weight and 7 day rest would mean I'd be rubbish but did OK. Best links 2nd bolt to mid traverse going back left and then at end did throw to top. Even though decided that that was the last go tips sore etc had a final final go and nearly did throw to top again just catching crimp on traverse in wrong place and not being able to adjust on it.
S. PM. Short session on Wave working pink black spots. Felt quite strong on it.

Weights and deadhang sess tomorrow morning then rest up till Thursday for an afternoon/eve sess at Malham. Got an idea on how to set up better for the throw. Hope route stays dry and weather cool 

[tomtom]

M:
T: almscliff. Decided to re-open account on the Keel.. Miles away but not too bad. Entertained myself on Dwr and various finishes for a while
W:
T: cliff again. Nice session, working the 7A+ traverse by the south cave (I think). Really burly, warm slopers, great! Got all the moves just kept dropping the end as tired. Next time better conditions etc..
F: very very drunk
S: hangover of doom. Bed all day...
Su: quick 90 min at Logport wall...

Feeling good, but off to oz in a week for a couple of weeks and will not get any climbing in there so just hoping to get in and stay in shape...

[tommytwotone]

STG: GNR in under 1hr 58mins 18secs
LTG: Font 7b

M - Nowt, watched England and France try and bore each other to death.
T - 10 miles in 1:28:18. Good to get round, didn't feel too bad so a positive base to work from seeing as the longest run I've done since GNR 2010 has been the odd on-spec 10k race!
W - Ow - that hurts. So does that. And that too.
T - 40 mins steady run at lunchtime.
F - Nowt, watched England test the country's nerves against Sweden.
S - couple of hours at the Depot on new, crimpy wood circuit.
S - Anston Stones for first time, a harsh reintroduction into the lime. Did a 6b+. Just.

[cheque]

M- Tremadog. Managed two easy multi-pitch routes before the rain started. Still best day of the trip as I dd one of the routes off my list for the trip (albeit the easiest)
T- Rest
W- Lorry Park Quarry. Surprised by how good the rock and climbing are  there, also that it stays dryish which is good as it was raining. The warm-up is a steep 6b+ thin hands crack which spanked me first go- never tried anything like as hard in this style before. Top-roped it clean second go though- should have gone for the red point as I was all over the place afterwards. Tried the 7a my mate was on to finish but was totally done by then.
T- Rest. Knackered.
F- Rest.
S- Rest.
S- Rest.

Five days off, two days on this week, which is the opposite of what I normally aim for. Felt like the time to have a mid-year rest. Really feel like I learnt new techniques on Wednesday.

STGs- Take leader falls, get some dates for trips tied down for the rest of the summer.

[duncan]

STG: rehab. shoulder; get fit for 700m of limestone 6c.
MTG: E5; 7b

M - Physio: tentative diagnosis of SLAP lesion, though we both know clinical tests are not very specific. Plenty to work on.  Squats, step-ups.
T - Over-did rotator cuff exercises.  Shoulder sore.
W  -  Squats, step-ups.
T - Cuff, scapular stability, thoracic mobility exercises
F - Cuff, scapular stability, thoracic mobility exercises
S - Walked/jogged 19km around bucolic English countryside, glorious summer day, Vaughan-Williams sound track.
S - Chased offspring.

All this running around is making chasing offspring easier.  Hope it also transfers to hiking 21 pitches up the Kleines Wellhorn.

[Nibile]

Good week. Started slow, then it kicked up.
Mon. Rest.
Tue. Rest.
Wed. Board. Single moves and good links on project. Iced previously impossible moves. Rest is good.
Thu.  System training. Lock offs, footless bouldering, Underclings. Bouldering with 6 kg on. Vol 8. Int 8.
Fri. Active rest. Climbing class. Very tired.
Sat. Board. Single moves and links. Vol 7. Int 8.
Sun. Board. Single moves and links. Vol 6/7. Int 7/8.

Overall good week considering:
Working too much, getting home late and with little time.
Very high temps already. Never below 25 degrees in the board room..
Left wrist very sore.

Last Sunday I filed all the edges of the footholds. They are now rounded. Everything got really difficult and keeping feet on is extremely difficult for me.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Forced by illness & other things to back off. Easing off for a while probably not a bad thing, as I just had a successful few weeks of endurance work culminating the equaling my previous best-eve sport PB. Can't expect a peak phase to go on forever.

M: Cough, headache, sore throat
T: Cough, headache, sore throat
W:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen: rather directionless/unfocused bouldering session
F:
S: yoga
S: Wall, Thalkirchen: PE traversing

[nai]

goals - 8a, E4, 10 limestone boulder 7s (2 done)

M - very quick max hangs session
T- W rest
T - planned Tor crushage didn't work out, probably for the best went to Stanage got on a HVS to warm up, 10 feet later, pumped and scared I'm asking for a spot and just move that mat over.  Things did improve slightly.  flashed Fallen Archangel while there.
F - opened an account with Ben's Roof, thought I was crushing it getting to the kneebar in 15 minutes then realised I'd done the easy bit.  Unable to work out what to do next (misread a mate's text beta as a kneebar-egyptian not kneebar or egyptian - fool) soon scuttled off home to harvest the beta from videos.
S- Malham for the first time in 15 years, got some much needed mileage on a rope and a few ticks. Props to everyone who makes that journey time after time year after year, hideous.

[wsmith]

Week 23 of plan.

M.
T.
W. Warwick. 45min bouldering. Ancap - 12 reps on 14 move problem. 1min20 rep rest. Fell on last 2 reps. Good.
T. FB. 20 min of various max hangs. 10 sets of repeaters.
F. Garage. Ancap - 2x6 reps of 16 move circuit.  Reduced rep rest to 1min45. 5min set rest.
S. Warwick. Aeropow - Redpoints and some doubles on routes.
S. FB. 15min of various max hangs. 10 sets of repeaters. 20 min run.

Decent week. Missed 1 aeropow routes session from the plan. 2 more similar weeks coming up, then 1 week rest on family holiday, then Ceuse!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Peak lime up to F7c+ (if it ever dries that is) brown F7c @ The Works (sad bastard summer tick),

M: Nowt 
T: PE @ The Works - Tried brown 7c 6 times - Managed to reach a new high point when I got spat off last moves on 4th attempt - YYFY! Think if it had been any of the first 3 I might have been in with a chance of actually doing the thing!
3hr rest then AeroCap on BM - 4x150-200 hand moves with feet on chair @ 8 mins rest between sets.
W: Mileage/AeroCap @ The Works - 40 odd problems with very little rest.
T: Grindleford Fell Race (active rest  ) - Started fast but faded at the bottom of Padley Gorge as my dinner decided it no longer liked being inside me and made a bid for freedom.. Finished just outside top 100 @ 44 mins. Must sort out pre race food choices in future.
F: Rest
S: Board session - Started terrible, almost quit after 20 mins but persevered and managed to do one of my new projects and rinse my AnCap circuit 4 times 
S: Board Session - Repeated project and set a new one, good long session. Went for a walk in the Peak and managed to tread on a 6 inch rusty nail in me fell shoes - Had to get the Mrs to pull it out as it was embedded some 2/3rds of the way through the ball of me foot! One emergency cleanup later plus a change of shoes (and a couple of medicinal pints) saw me in A&E getting a tetanus and antibiotics and leaving me with one fucking sore foot...NNFN!

Quite an eventful week: Started and almost finished well but the idiot who left a lump of wood in a muddy puddle by a gate with a 6 inch nail stuck out of it has pretty much put me out of action for the next couple of weeks. The irony is that I was going to do the Edale fell race but decided not to because of a slightly sore achillies and opted for a nice gentle walk instead - big fat fucking arseburgers! Should be thankful it didn't go all the way through my foot I suppose.

This week: Mope/Fingerboard/Mope/Fingerboard/Mope some more.....

:D 

[fried]

I've been reading Jerry's 'revelations' this week and feeling lazy.

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Indoor, did loads of stuff at between 5c/6b, which seems a bit broad for a grading band.
Wednesday - Nothing
Thursday- Nothing
Friday - Almost managed to get a day out in the foresT, but the weather was looking unreliable. Jerry would've just hitched from Porte d'Orleans. IndOor session at wall No.1, very unmotivating after going to wall no.2. Humid and greasy.
Saturday - Drink too much.

Sunday - Hangover, decide to go to Cuvier where I never go and especially not on a sunny Sunday. Wander around and spot a problem I like the look of climb up a bit and slide of a polished foot hold. Have a look in the topo to see what it is, it's Marie Rose. Incredible how you can climb for so long in an area an be completely unaware of what other problems are around. I've always resolved never to try this until I think I can flash it which is me fucked. Play around on some slabs and basically climb nothing. My fingers ache. Have a quick look at Butte aux peintres. Play around on a wall, get shut down. Topped out nothing all day, Jerry would be proud.

Weight 74.8kg gained a kilo, probably in beer;

[iain]

STG: More E4 onsights. Will get back to Under Duress when weather is rubbish elsewhere.
MTG: Have a look at Infinite Gravity

Weight: 62.8 Mon morning, was all over the place over previous week with 3 family/friend meals out, late nights and too much Probably got off lightly   

M: Can't remember
T: Local sweaty wall having forgotten chalk and had a hard time. Good volume and left feeling tired so assume it served it's purpose.
W: BM. Sloper max hangs and strength work. Family meal.
T: Biscuit factory in London seeing friend. Aim was volume so did loads, brilliant. I wish we had something like this closer to home. 2nd meal out.
F: Rest. Another meal.
S: Poor day avoiding the weather and wound up at the cuttings again. Tired and unpsyched so didn't get on UD
S: Boulder Ruckle. It didn't bode well when I got scared looking at the topout on the warm up and couldn't bring myself to lead it. Did a very soft E3 and wasted some good late afternoon conditions due to more low psyche. Went home early.

Was a good volume training week up until the weekend. Multiple late nights and way too much food/drink meant that I felt heavy, slow and tired. In hindsight I should have gone for 1 good day rather than wasting both.

This is a better week already.

[Duma]

Drive too much, eat too much, drink too much.
Sleep too little.
Still scraping in under 70 though.

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July, to 165lbs by end of August. (currently 171.5)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (2/10 done)
Put Up 2 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).

Monday - Mtn Bike 1 hr -freaking AWESOME
Tuesday - Wtd Hangs in AM, ARC in PM, Run 3mi PM
Wednesday - Bouldered at gym.  good hard session. felt pretty strong.
Thursday -  PM - Mtn Bike 1 hr -freaking AWESOME
Friday - Wtd Hangs in AM
Saturday - Boulder in Hatcher Pass - put up/climbed 35 new problems up to 7C+   
Sunday - Rest, 3mi run

Great week! Now for family visitors for a couple of weeks.

[Nibile]

I haven't done 35 problems in the last three years!!! 

[tomtom]

I haven't done 35 problems in the last three years!!! 

If I do 35 moves in a session its alot!

[Sasquatch]

I haven't done 35 problems in the last three years!!! 

It helps to have unlimited access to undeveloped boulders

http://www.akclimber.com/?p=281

http://www.b3bouldering.com/category/alaska/

While winter and the isolation of being in Alaska has it's drawbacks, there are certainly benefits as well!

I've averaged cleaning and establishing about 150 or so problems each summer for the last three years.  This years count so far is 48 in three days outside.  I should be putting up a bunch more tomorrow as well.