[fried]

2 week check in.

Got to the Peak on Thursday of last week, four hours sleep and a long drive and I'm exhausted, had a kip and a quick play on the Buckstone. Fantastic.

Friday- Damp and folks are there for the weekend, so tour round Millstone, Owler tor etc and a quick trip out to Burbage south where we do nothing.

Saturday- Walking with family the joy of gift shops in Castleton with the niece for the umpteenth time.
Sunday - Cratcliffe/ Robin hood stride with the kids, mostly making sure they don't fall off anything. The niece (10) is showing a bit of slab skill and did most of the ramp before jumping off and nearly breaking my finger. Difficult to find stuff challenging for her that's not reachy. Nice pint of Titanic in the Druid and then let the kids run around Rowtor.

Monday - Lovely last walk around Edale in the sun before the folks leave. Drive to Burbage south, but the nephew develops a stomach ache within seconds of arrival and we go home after a couple of problems.

Tuesday - The heat kick in. I go to visit the Lone boulder ('cos it's always been on my mind) and find that after the slog up the hill I can't get off the ground. Develop a nasty sore throat probably from sitting around in the cold all weekend.

Wednesday - Birchen, it's too hot and I feel under the weather. Do a tour of Gardoms, visit the retirement home that is Bakewell for about 10 minutes before I've had enough. Even the missus doesn't like it. Evening session at Burbage south. Do lots of easy stuff. Fail to get off the ground on Pock. Climbing grit in the sun is hard.

Thursday - Saturday - At folks
Sunday - Rest - Tomorrow is still bank holiday in France and I'm off out with my new 5+6 guide.

Not a great Peak trip for climbing but fantastic for barbecues, real ale and showing my missus one of my favourite places in the world.

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.3-4

M.
T. PM. Malham. Roasting. Did Appetite but decided to give Oak a miss. Worked Mescalito instead. Ben Freeman got a late evening ascent of the Oak    Fingers felt tweaky
W.
T. Eve. Shed. Working on Oak sections and some aerocap circuits.
F.
S. Eve. Malham with family. Deserted. Felt strong on the Oak on the warm up
but was fighting conditions on redpoint. Did a good link to finish of the upper section.
S.

Still no ticks for the year so far but climbing better than ever on the Oak.

[nai]

M - 5:30 start at Secret Garden, failed to work out the bottom of Left Hand Man.  3xAssisted lockoffs -10s
T  - Campussing - 5x2min on, 5 min off, sets 3-5 hard but just completed
w
T - Tor gopping, managed THFML then went for a look at Red Or Dead, full in sun but did all moves bar first, found new beta so hopeful it'll go next time.   3xAssisted lockoffs -10s
F - 4x4, 1 min on/off, 3:30 rest. Failed avg rep 48/52 sets 14-16
S - 5x2mins on, 4 off, final set just complete.   3xAssisted lockoffs +2kg -10s. Shoulder, chest & tris
S

[tomtom]

M: Burbizzle west with Plattsy. PROGRESS ON WSS. One move higher hurt skin drying Bannanawhotistscombinations.
F: Helsby. Low on motivation, high on temperature.. Stayed 40 min then bailed..
Su: Harmers. Nice eve session, though spent a chunk of it cleaning up someone else's mess....

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M:
T: yoga
W: Wall, Thalkirchen: best wall session ever? Something I have been doing is working. Onsighted a 6c, did all the moves on another one. 3 x 6b, 4 x 6a+
T: yoga
F: Son's birthday party. At which, according to the scales the next morning, I consumed over a kilo of cake. 
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. PE traverses (in the fond hope that these are what produced Wednesday's result)
S: Hillwalking with kids, Wendelstein

[Duma]

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) cardio every week. Going well
- Weight consistently 68ish. Going ok
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year. UK tick, font will have to wait till Autumn now
- 5 probs at or above 7C this year. 2 down, 3 to go
- 8a this year. Need to get out more All on hold until I...
- Fix wrist

M -
T - Run, 6m, grass, flat, 46min. Slightly disappointed, but last weeks 45min effort was clockwise, and I'm pretty sure anticlockwise (my normal direction) is harder. Also I went out too hard and faded badly by the end.
W -
T -
F - Run, 6m, grass, flat, 48min. God I nearly died it was so hot. then afternoon/eve shift, then too much booze, then too little sleep.
S - sat in the garden hungover, top bbq for late lunch.
S -

Weight: 69.

Wrist seems a little better, hard to tell really. Weight still in right direction. Should have got 3 runs in this week though   Bored of not climbing.

[Nibile]

Start up/transition week.
Mon. System training. Lock offs, footless bouldering +6 kg, footless bouldering on longer problems. Not bad. Vol 7+. Int 8. Fucked my wrist again. Do not repeat.
Wed. Board. Bouldering. Three problems tried. Isolation moves. Very hard to get going, wrist not ok.
Thu. Bouldering. Climbed the current project. Despite work, driving and heat, very strong.
Fri. Active rest. Climbing class, very tiring in the end.
Sun. Mounting holds in the gym.

Average week. It's still hard to get going after the early spring. Footless bouldering is bad for my wrist, which has not healed. Also, the recent successes on rock, despite being good, seem to require a big mental effort to be understood: they induce a strange, unknown feeling of accomplishment that is quite shocking for me.
I could do with some real, not injury-induced rest, but days are too long without training.
Let's go.

[duncan]

The climbing was easy but I didn't 100% nail the water-entry from the jump from just below the top - it felt like I had been assaulted with a sledgehammer. Anyway, the girls in the boat seemed impressed.
Sun: nothing! Appear to have symptoms of a fractured rib   

Looks like next week will be a low-intensity one ...

Ooops!   Heal quickly.

STG: get fit for 500m Swiss limestone routes in July.
MTG: E5 end 2012

M - Fingerboard 'repeaters' - foot on
T - Short hill run
W - Bouldering circuit: 60 problems up and down  (~200m in in 55 mins)
T - Short run
F - Bouldering circuit: 50 problems up and down in 45 mins.
S - Longer hill run. 5 hours of Cornish knights and Irish princesses not getting it on. Beer, fish and chips.
S - Cheddar with Mr. Trad: E1s and E2s (architypical Cheddar easy trad: loose rock, dusty holds and verdant veg.) followed by Bottom Feeder 7a with 1 fall and Zoon Horn Rollo 7a+ flash. 

A good training week and an unexpected milestone: first 7a+ since 1997.  Pleased with this coming on the back of minimal real climbing and whilst training endurance. It is very soft and I was well briefed but bouldery, not my forte, and in warm and greasy conditions.   

[chris05]

I have been very lazy this week (mainly spent enjoying the weather at the pub!)but noticed a slight niggle in my left middle finger so will be taking it easy training wise and try to get out running plenty.

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (3 done - 2 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: rest
T: 4.75 mile hilly road run, BM: max hangs - pockets (conditions poor!)
W-Fri: nothing
S: Bouldering at Conies Dale, very easy trad at Castle Naze
S: very easy trad at Windgather

Should have managed another 7A on Sat but failed on the final (easier) move about 10 times, was then too tired to manage anything else, what a punter! Should go next time. Realised that a year ago I would have been overjoyed with  a 7A after many sessions but now get annoyed with not getting one in a session.

[cheque]

M- Rest.
T- Week 8 of swiss ball program. Now I have a medicine ball so can do it all properly. Felt surprisingly steady.
W- Minus 10 evening. Feeling stronger than ever before! Worked wall traverse (ie. eliminating the break)- felt like it would go but as temps improved I got knackered.  Realised I'd been there more than three hours as I left!
T- Dishes/ v-sits, then overhead squats trying to get the technique- managed to sort perfect form out but with very low weight.
F- Rest
S- Partner unable to make planned trip to Derwent Edge  so ended up back at Minus 10 in searing heat. Bad idea- sacked off wall traverse after a few crap goes, then onto some straight ups which tore my skin up.
S- Harborough Rocks introducing timid friend to the delights terrors of top-roping a Diff. Some easy solong.

Frustrating. Gutted not to be able to escape the heat up on the high moors but performance on lime bodes well for some sport (hopefully) this week. Unfortunately my skin has never been in worse shape.

[iain]

first 7a+ since 1997

  That was a bit of a wait, good effort.

STG: E4 onsight

Weight: 62.5 this morning, back in the right direction. Aim is consistent 62.

M: 15m yoga. Low volume BM strength, felt weak and lacking in energy, poor session
T: 15m yoga. Aerocap, 3*12min, felt good whilst doing but probably overdid it.
W: rest
T: 15m yoga. Sweltering afternoon/eve at Battleship. A little mileage, a retro-flash of Pump Hitler and a couple of failures on The Racing Line. Unlike others I cannot crush the rock to atoms in the heat.
F: Knackered.
S: Even more knackered, felt better in the evening, 4 mile walk.
S: Great day onsighting on Portland with S. 9 routes, 5 6a+ ish, 3 7a onsights and 1 very close 7a+ onsight failure. (fell off because I made a mistake, not because I was tired.)

Mixed week with big physical ups and downs, I'm assuming it's because I'm not dealing well with the heat.

On the plus side I've started using liquid chalk to get over the sweaty fingers and it's definitely helping, and yesterday was a great mileage day. Climbing pacing, movement and fight were all where they need to be. E4 onsight will happen when I get on one, (or two depending on how the first one goes.) Probably won't have a chance for 2 weeks now though.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Peak sport routes up to F7c+, brown F7c @ The Works and ultimately F8a before 2014

M: Board session - destroyed AnCap circuit, did some power work.. Nice
T: Planned board session - pulled on, f*cked off... Arms didn't work - went t'pub.
W: AnCap/AnPow @ The Works - Tried the brown 7c but it was too hot and sweaty so diid some links from the 6c into the 7c (aprox 30 moves).
T: V Easy Trad @ Stanage - Took a mate who'd not climbed much out on the string, nothing above VS and soloed a bit too - Nice Evening.
F: Rubicon - Got on The Sissy as everything else was baking.... Got spanked! Couldn't string 2 moves together Repeated Millers Tale SS 2nd go (6b+ my arse!) And tried some 7's - Pint in the Red Lion.
S: Nowt.
S: Board Session - 1.5 hrs of power!

Did a fair bit but feel like I'm lacking structure at the minute - Need to get back on a project (Choadside? Body Machine - if it ever dries etc.) Did Millers tale much easier than in previous years but got more spanked by the sissy than the last time I was on it a couple of years ago.... Enjoying the cellar board in this hot weather, not enjoying the Works as it's too bloody hot...

This week: Board , fingers or more board, 10+ mile run, Malham and Tor (fingers X-d) or board.

:D 

[cheque]

S: Great day onsighting on Portland with S. 9 routes, 5 6a+ ish, 3 7a onsights and 1 very close 7a+ onsight failure. (fell off because I made a mistake, not because I was tired.)

Well jealous! I can't be the only landlocked climber craving some seaside rock in this kind of weather.

[wsmith]

Week 20 of plan.

M. Warwick. Redpoints on routes, felt good, did a couple routes that had been failing on before.
T. 20 min run.
W. Forest Rock. Condensation had fucked the cave but did some bouldering on the outside. Tried some stuff I had been on before but no success. Did Saucy above pads and onsighted sorcerer on a rope.
T. Garage. 45 mins max bouldering.  Ancap - 2x5 reps of 17 move circuit. Rep rest reduced by 30s to 2 min. Set rest 5 min. Did ok.
F. 20 min run.
S. Forest Rock, much better condition. Abbed down top slice, cleaned it and checked out the moves, looks mostly ok apart from a couple moves. Psyched to try it but need to get the carrot hangers for the bolts as working it with wires looped over and on a grigri is almost impossible. Bouldering afterwards, did saucy again, tried the 7A+ thin slabby problem but couldnt work it out, did some ok links on the traverse.
S. Garage. Too hot. Did aeropow but lacking structure - 8 reps of various 30-40 move circuits that I made up. Need to set up a few proper circuits for this rather than making it up randomly as I go. Was gunna do ancap aswell but skin was too shit.

Not a great week. The heat is no good for training motivation or my skin. Missed 1 aerocap, 1 ancap and 1 aeropow from the plan! Rest week next week and I need it.

[csl]

Goals for May
Onsight Bloody Sunday in Pembroke this weekend - Done.
Onsight 7a at Malham - Not done
Climb Space Race - done
Under 18.50 5km - got a new PB yesterday of 18.30. Goal for the year done! Got a hungover 18.30 again this week so no fluke!
4+ endurance sessions a week to prep for ceuse - done enough to be happy

Mon - kilnsey/ malham- directissema Onsight to the top lower off. Taking the space first go of the day. A go on new Dawn.
Tues Henry price traversing laps for endurance. 10 k run in 44 mins. Stretching
Wed - morning, chevin, trad, failed on gronff left hand e4. Afternoon, Leeds wall circuit board session, good! Slow 5k, 23 minutes or something
Thur - rest
Fri - kilnsey, bit of a crap session. Tried sticky Wicket and fifty for five. Both felt nails.
Sat - drive to Wales, popped into panmaen head. Onsighted a few routes including flowstone shuffle 6b+. Good route!
Sun- cloggy. Onsighted the axe! Buzzin year goal done! And some e2s.
Sun

[csl]

Also weighed in at 71.5 kilos so have lost 5 or 6 kilos since Christmas!

[iain]

Well jealous! I can't be the only landlocked climber craving some seaside rock in this kind of weather.

There are some things I really like about living down here. S keeps talking about moving back north to somewhere with no sea cliffs and a lot of rain but so far I've managed to delay the inevitable.

[webbo]

I have been very lazy this week (mainly spent enjoying the weather at the pub!)but noticed a slight niggle in my left middle finger so will be taking it easy training wise and try to get out running plenty.

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (3 done - 2 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: rest
T: 4.75 mile hilly road run, BM: max hangs - pockets (conditions poor!)
W-Fri: nothing
S: Bouldering at Conies Dale, very easy trad at Castle Naze
S: very easy trad at Windgather

Should have managed another 7A on Sat but failed on the final (easier) move about 10 times, was then too tired to manage anything else, what a punter! Should go next time. Realised that a year ago I would have been overjoyed with  a 7A after many sessions but now get annoyed with not getting one in a session.

So that was you. When you asked to join in with us I had an awful feeling you were going to piss up it and say " thats never 7a in a million years" 

[chris05]

So that was you. When you asked to join in with us I had an awful feeling you were going to piss up it and say " thats never 7a in a million years" 

I wish. Maybe I should hang around with beginners, it might make me feel better!

Always nice to meet people off of here!