[Greg C]

SDS to the centre of the wall starting matched on a low and very thin crimpy rail than direct to the top. 20mins walk from Kintra village. There is other stuff hereabouts, this is one of two harder lines I did.

Location details: http://g.co/maps/6q2ae

[dave]

Good work G, nice to see some stuff being unearthed here its a beautiful spot. Most of the rock I saw seemed way too course for climbing.

[Greg C]

The roughness of the rock does seem to vary considerably from area to area, even within quite a short distance. I agree that the eye-catching stuff in front of the pub in Fionnphort is pretty hideous. We also found a more glacially worn boulder field elsewhere (on the last day), which I may return for. Stunning place to be whatever you're doing... providing the weather plays the game of course.

[SA Chris]

Looks like a reeeeeeal shithole

Nice finds Greg. Be keen to know what other non-skin shredding stuff you have found that's suitable for mortals.

[Bonjoy]

Both the new probs look mint

[Greg C]

Looks like a reeeeeeal shithole

Nice finds Greg. Be keen to know what other non-skin shredding stuff you have found that's suitable for mortals.

Andy (Hyslop), Pete (Whillance) and Collin Moody have been developing some of the trad crags hereabouts and Andy's going to do a topo when they're finished developing. I'll add a bit of info and photo-topo for the bouldering when he gets around to it and stick a link up once it's done.

Both the new probs look mint

Thanks Jon.

[a dense loner]

I concur Greg, imagine my shock when I look at the thread n uve done a couple of probs that look fantastic. Will need to check again tomos morn, I fear this white wine has gone to my head quicker than I thought

[topcat]

Looks like a reeeeeeal shithole

Nice finds Greg. Be keen to know what other non-skin shredding stuff you have found that's suitable for mortals.

Have you seen the boulders down on the shore to the left just before you go down the hill into Kintra? Not as rough or scrittly as the stuff at Fionnphort, though I wouldn't say it's totally non-skin shredding.  Some really good problems at 6A and upwards. Better shapes than the rock at Fionnphort. Was cleaning and doing some of them a couple of weeks ago. Fair bit of stuff to do yet. Good effort Greg. Nice to see folk enjoying climbing down there.

[Greg C]

Looks like a reeeeeeal shithole

Nice finds Greg. Be keen to know what other non-skin shredding stuff you have found that's suitable for mortals.

Have you seen the boulders down on the shore to the left just before you go down the hill into Kintra? Not as rough or scrittly as the stuff at Fionnphort, though I wouldn't say it's totally non-skin shredding.  Some really good problems at 6A and upwards. Better shapes than the rock at Fionnphort. Was cleaning and doing some of them a couple of weeks ago. Fair bit of stuff to do yet. Good effort Greg. Nice to see folk enjoying climbing down there.

Yeah, saw these on my last day - which was too warm for bouldering really. Did some stuff up to 7a+ (including a superb clean-cut arete from sitting) and cleaned/worked a couple of harder lines. Defo be keen to return to this little cluster.

[SA Chris]

Have you seen the boulders down on the shore to the left just before you go down the hill into Kintra?

I've still not made it there, but dead keen to get there.

[Pebblespanker]

Having drooled over Greg's picture I just had a nosey on Google Maps at Fiohnnport and found a photo of an amazing looking anvil shaped tidal boulder split by a large crack. It appears to be on the beach but its very hard to tell how big it is so no idea if it has any problems or if its 2ft high, links below

http://www.panoramio.com/photo/14124645

http://www.panoramio.com/photo_explorer#view=photo&position=262&with_photo_id=37356547&order=date_desc&user=1663840

apologies for not embedding the shots but am supposed to be working 

What's the travelling time from Oban?? Got a weeks A/L coming up ...

[dave]

That boulder is right by the ferry jetty to iona, I don't think its very big, and its in the sea.

That whole peninsula is covered in granite, its just a matter of searching out the stuff that's not too coarse/crispy to climb.

Ferry from oban, then about an hour or so drive.

[Pebblespanker]

Shame, thought that might be the case

Thanks for the journey info Dave, time to look at ferries 

[Greg C]

Having drooled over Greg's picture I just had a nosey on Google Maps at Fiohnnport and found a photo of an amazing looking anvil shaped tidal boulder split by a large crack. It appears to be on the beach but its very hard to tell how big it is so no idea if it has any problems or if its 2ft high, links below

I went over to that block, it's actually slightly bigger than it looks from a distance. There is certainly one really good LtoR lip traverse problem and maybe 3 more shorter ok lines. Due to being on the beach the rock is also more worn than the stuff on the nearby hillside, although it's still pretty rough. It's probably worth cleaning up just because of the easy access and scenic location.

[topcat]

Looks like a reeeeeeal shithole

Nice finds Greg. Be keen to know what other non-skin shredding stuff you have found that's suitable for mortals.

Have you seen the boulders down on the shore to the left just before you go down the hill into Kintra? Not as rough or scrittly as the stuff at Fionnphort, though I wouldn't say it's totally non-skin shredding.  Some really good problems at 6A and upwards. Better shapes than the rock at Fionnphort. Was cleaning and doing some of them a couple of weeks ago. Fair bit of stuff to do yet. Good effort Greg. Nice to see folk enjoying climbing down there.

Yeah, saw these on my last day - which was too warm for bouldering really. Did some stuff up to 7a+ (including a superb clean-cut arete from sitting) and cleaned/worked a couple of harder lines. Defo be keen to return to this little cluster.

Do you mean the one at the left hand end if you have your back to the sea?

[topcat]

Having drooled over Greg's picture I just had a nosey on Google Maps at Fiohnnport and found a photo of an amazing looking anvil shaped tidal boulder split by a large crack. It appears to be on the beach but its very hard to tell how big it is so no idea if it has any problems or if its 2ft high, links below

I went over to that block, it's actually slightly bigger than it looks from a distance. There is certainly one really good LtoR lip traverse problem and maybe 3 more shorter ok lines. Due to being on the beach the rock is also more worn than the stuff on the nearby hillside, although it's still pretty rough. It's probably worth cleaning up just because of the easy access and scenic location.

For anyone who has Gary's guide there's a photo of this boulder on page 84. That boulder, and indeed that hillside opposite Fionnphort isn't why you go to Mull. There's much nicer rock and much nicer beaches elsewhere. If you/your group just want to boulder then Kintra is good. If you're there with the family and want to do beach-related things and perhaps sidle off in the direction of some boulders for half an hour then Knockvologan is better, particularly as it has problems for children - even pretty young children. In fact the best problem there is a kiddies traverse with your feet six inches off the ground. The boulders are right next to one of the best beaches on Mull.