[r-man]

Likely to be dry on the weekend, or is it suffering from condensation like most lime crags?

And does it get shade or sun in the afternoon?

Never been before, but just realised it's a lot closer to lancs than most (all?) other welsh bouldering.

[Monolith]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10343.0.html

Existing thread champ.

I find the Sparks area to get greasy as hell when it's hot but you might not suffer as I do. Under The Bridge area is a delight to climb in in warmer weather with a cool breeze emanating from the adjacent cave. Problem of said name is also a gem of a problem. 

[r-man]

Cheers, didn't see that. Sounds like it might be a bit sweaty then.

How about The GOP or Ruthvin?

[Pantontino]

Cheers, didn't see that. Sounds like it might be a bit sweaty then.

How about The GOP or Ruthvin?

Ruthin Escarpment has seepage at its base but this tends not to affect the climbing as much as you might think. (Be sure to take a few towels to dry or cover wet footholds) It strikes me as a very climbable venue - both times I've been have been on really manky days during periods of heavy rain. We went there partly because we were sure all the other north coast lime venues (apart from perhaps Manor Crag) would have been wet.

In fact the last time we went, we tried Pantymwyn first and it was badly condensed yet we ended up having a good session at Ruthin.

Doylo will be along soon to wax lyrical about The Gop.

[Jim]

What bouldering at Ruthin?

[Andy B]

Are there any topos to these areas available? We are considering heading over tonight, but I don't really know anything about them.

[Jim]

A quick search:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=550
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=421

[r-man]

Thanks for the knowledge Pantontino.

Are there any topos to these areas available? We are considering heading over tonight, but I don't really know anything about them.

From my copy and pasting yesterday....

Pantymwyn


topos
Left http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Spinal%20Tap%20topo%202.jpg
Right http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=327


beta/descriptions...

Under Pressure V11/8a starts left of Be Ruthless from a sitting start at the base of the bulge. Pull on with left hand pinching an undercut, right hand in a slot. The line trends up and left to finish above an overlap on a flat jug left of a big hole.

Spinal Tap V11/8A starts as for Faith Healer, following it to the diagonal sidepull, but then continues the traverse rightwards into the finish of Be Ruthless.

Guth Mentality V8/7B reverses Thug Mentality from its finishing jug into a finish up Pantys Down.

Gasoline Straight V8/7B - up to the lip with right hand, then go again to back hand furthest left hold on Firestarter. The stand up itself warrants V7/Font 7a+, and is a hard and independent line that will please campus monkeys.

Fat Bottom Girls V11/8A -  Under Pressure - Be Ruthless link

Be Ruthless - V9/7C

Be Ruthless sds - V10/7C+. Starting on the right side of the cave/hole, heel and toe trickery gain the starting pocket on the original problem.

The Faith Healer V8/7b/+ is located to the left of Under Pressure; it starts sitting on an ‘L’ shaped hold on a vague pillar and then traverses rightwards just above the lip using small holds, toe hooks and heel hooks to gain a diagonal sidepull (right hand). From here an 11 o'clock trajectory dyno up to a flat edge provides the finish.
 
Front Range V7/7a+ish starts on the obvious jug left of Robert Duvall and climbs up past an assortment of pinches, slopey edges to jugs in the high break.

The Yellow Finish V10/7c+ follows Spark’s out to its crux left hand slap, but instead takes the lip with the other hand, allowing a leftwards exit past a pinch to reach the jugs at the top of the central project line

in the Gorge itself - Under the Bridge V8/7b is a standing start on a right hand under cut, and uses a crimp on the obvious shield, plus toe hooks to gain the flat hold to the left. It then finishes on the dusty jugs above.

---

Looks like the stuff on the web might suffice for Ruthin. Can't find anything decent for GOP. Anyone?

[Andy B]

Nice one, cheers.

[Pantontino]

The Gop is covered in Doylo's dad's A55 guidebook.

I haven't done that section of the script for the new NWB guide yet so can't help much beyond a list of problems. (I have been but it was ages ago)

Push the Button 8A **
[Sam Cattell 2005]

Blokesmoker 7A+ *
[Sam Cattell 2005]

Coming Out 7A+ *
[Sam Cattell 2005]

Blokesmoker Low Start 8A **
[Danny Cattell 2005]

Smoke a Bloke 7B+ **
[Danny Cattell 2005]

Street Fighter 7B
[Sam Cattell 2005]

E Honda 7B
[Sam Cattell 2005]

I've texted Doylo so he might come on with some more info.

[Doylo]

If you email me crimpmaster28@hotmail.com i'll mail you the Gop script. It will boiling there at the moment though, don't forget tremeirchion, shady and excellent crag just off the A55, worth going for 36 Chambers 7c alone. Search on NWB

[tunaficiency]

pantymwyn is soaking at the mo, ruthin is in good nick a small bit of seepage under TBC.
should be heading there early tomorrow. And spotted a dark green fritallary there on wed.

[gruffalo]

The Gop is in good condition. The sun hits it untill about 6ish
Well worth a visit...