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Tuppence (Read 1990 times)

Ged

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Tuppence
May 23, 2012, 09:51:26 am
First section:  Can do OK.  Fall off fairly frequently hitting the sloper, but it'll go

Second section:  Can do all but the move from the second left hand crimp to setting up for the pop.  Any help?

Third section:  Not sure how to go for the left hand hold (i.e. the last hard move.)  Managed it once just having me feet fairly low, right hand on good crimp (not the crap pinch), left hand on sidepull/undercut, and lunge/jump for the hold.  Held this a couple of times.  Also managed it by getting right foot high, right hand to crap sidepull/pinch, then left foot up to good pocket, and go for the hold.  This felt desperate!  I'm fairly tall (6ft), and the second method feels really bunched up and burly.  However the first method feels pretty low percentage, and it's a pretty heartbreaking place to have a low percentage move!  ANy help?

Cheers

DanD

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#1 Re: Tuppence
November 10, 2012, 07:28:58 pm
Aright Ged,

I think you'll find that what you need to do is man the f**k up and pull on through. Bloody good good route though.

Hope this helps,

Mikey C.

Ps,

Might be tricky to send from across the pond so I suppose Dan and I will have to do it for you!

DanD

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#2 Re: Tuppence
November 20, 2012, 02:21:45 pm
Ged,

Can confirm Mike is correct.  You just need to pull harder.  Pity you're on holiday for ages as conditions have been bloody prime!

Dan

 

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