[subseasniper]

S'up dudes and divas.

Okay, I am getting into this training thing and am loving my Beastmaker 2000.

I am thinking about training up my endurance and the following came to mind as a cheapo and easy to build way to do this.

I train in my garage and was thinking about clearing a space and putting up two sheets of ply vertically against one wall. This would give me a vertical surface of 8 x 8 ft.

I was then going to bung on these holds

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/greatest-chips-screw-on-holds-p182692

and then do endurance laps on the wall, try to stay up for five to ten minutes at a time.

I have little spare room so can't really afford to put an overhanging wall in so thought that using these smallish holds would give me a good workout and help build up my endurance / power endurance.

Any thoughts / tips / advice / slam downs / shout outs etc.

Cheers.

[SA Chris]

Even if you put it back to 15  or 20 degrees it will increase the surface area and improve your stamina a lot

[subseasniper]

How comes?

[ianv]

You could try to build a wall that is mounted on hinges so that it packs up vertical but can be lowered to a decent angle for training on. Then you could have a kicker and give yourself about 10 ft of height. I dont think an 8 by 8 vertical wall would be very beneficial and it would be difficult to do circuits on.

[subseasniper]

That is a good idea but might be beyond my rudimentary carpentry skills.

I might have to reconsider my plan as every bit of research I do on the web suggests an overhanging wall.

I would love to make a moonboard to assist me in figuring out grades of real world problems but space won't permit this.

[account_inactive]

2

[Nibile]

I think that you could try to mount it overhanging and put up a good variety of system holds. It's a very good way to build stamina and/or power endurance.
The problem with very small walls is that it's difficult to set new changelling sequences, and training endurance can be very boring.
I know that system training can be boring, but at least you know it from the beginning!!!

[subseasniper]

Dammit, I really am not going to get off with a vertical wall am I?

Thoughts on kickboard height? 20 - 30cm?

Also, angle of the wall, 15-20 degrees maybe?

[ianv]

Dammit, I really am not going to get off with a vertical wall am I?

Thoughts on kickboard height? 20 - 30cm?

Also, angle of the wall, 15-20 degrees maybe?

Minimum 20 degrees, I would say. But steeper would be better, mine is about 20-25 and I could do with it being steeper even though I am currently shit.

It should be really simple to rig something. Hinges on the bottom to hold the board, two hinged pieces of wood to support it when out (with a hole drilled in each one for the right angle), holes drilled into a side support on the wall itself and some big ass bolts to slide into the two holes to give the stability. If you see what I mean?

[SA Chris]

I've asked this before, but where exactly are you based?

[subseasniper]

Indeed you have, I am in the far north of the Scottish mainland. Plenty of sea cliffs around here but a bit of a bubble when it comes to climbing. Often it is just me or a couple of mates out doing our thing.

[SA Chris]

Ok, bit of a backwoods as far as training facilities go!

[subseasniper]

Indeed, bit of a backwood for everything apart from not having to queue to get on the climbs around here.

[Nibile]

remember that secluded in Scotland and with a small wall, Malc became the strongest.

[SA Chris]

I'd be surfing!

Simon Nadin (80s /90s wad) lives down in Sutherland (Brora-ish) wonder if he has a bouldering wall or anything.