[csl]

Aims for april were
Write my dissertation - Done, handed in on Tuesday.
Climb 7b+ - Went to Malham to find space race soaked so not done, but confident i'll do it when its dry
Onsight E3 - Onsighted an E4
Sub 19min 5km - Done, 18.59 and times consistently below 19.05

Mon- Nothing
Tues- Nothing
Wed- Malham - Wet! Lead Rose Coronary for the first time and fell from the chains of Frankenstein on the flash. Ok day.
Thur- Depot - Session on circuit board, some pinks.
Fri- Nothing
Sat- Park Run 5km - Cambridge, really muddy course, 19.01 11th place. Evening - Kelsey Kerridge - random boulders and then core and stretching
Sun- nothing

Goals for May
Onsight Bloody Sunday in Pembroke this weekend
Onsight 7a at Malham
Climb Space Race
Under 18.50 5km

[tommytwotone]

STG - Cliff tickage
LTG - Font 7b

M - City Bloc session, had a good time despite being shattered from my previous day's epic return journey from London
T - Shattered. Raining. Totally de-psyched. Did nothing.
W - Still shattered. Still raining. Still totally de-psyched. Did nothing.
T - Depot session, still feeling dregs of tiredness but hauled self up a few of the new reds (V5-V7)
F - Nowt.
S - Nowt. Still raining.
S - Still raining. Went back to Depot and did a few more reds in the course of a much better session.

[Duma]

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) cardio every week. Going well
- Weight consistently 68ish. Going ok
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year. UK tick, font will have to wait till Autumn now
- 5 probs at or above 7C this year. 2 down, 3 to go
- 8a this year. Need to get out more. However if tca circuit grades are ballpark I should be capable

M - nowt. Abs, lats hurt from pull ups/leg raises on Sun.
T - run, 6m, grass, flat, 49min
W - TCA eve, best go yet on yellow, actually hit #29, way too boxed to hold it though. couple more blues prob low font 7ish
T -
F - wrist seemed to be worse, arse
S - run, 6m, grass, flat, 48min. wrist def worse, arse
S - TCA afternoon (ignoring wrist). taped up and it seemed ok. Fun session with tom working a few of the harder blues, managed one 7A+ ish, all the moves on a roof 7B+/C, and flailed on a slabby mantle that feels nails. then rested for 15min and got on the Yellow circuit. Crux opening boulder prob felt solid, knew it'd be a good go. Move to #29 was hard, but managed to keep it together. Apparently 8b.  Well chuffed, been trying this consistently for over a month now, Bodes well for aims on a string.

Weight: 70 - 69 going the wrong direction somehow, but 69 again this morning so hopeful.

[tomtom]

Good arra's csl..

Tues or Wed (I've forgotten..) Sneaky evening trip to Almscliff.... Marvellous.. usual circuit, had a playfull pull on Stu'sLH crimps and unexpectedly repeated the hard parts of Underhand when knackered. Feeling good!
Sat: Back to the cliff.. rain playing games with me all day.. managed to get a 1/2 decent session inbetween showers mainly by DWR which was dry ish.. had a play on the breakless finish to DWR.. looks like it might go when I'm a bit fresher/conditions were less damp.

Good to have the psyche back. Bad not enough dry time to use it!

[nai]

M - heading for a blank until I unexpectedly finished working an hour early, got a max hangs session in.
T - 6x7 rep repeaters on mid slots and mid sloper (+25 pressups) @ 5 mins rest
w
T- ditto Tue
F - 6x4 rep repeaters on 45s, low slots (3f), mid slopes 3f 1joint, low slots (4f semi crimp) (+25/30 pressups).  What a revelation, basically a max hang, 4s rest, max hang, 4s rest, 80% hang, 4s rest, max hang.  Failed on final rep at 5s 4/6 sets but wtf, I did 24 hard hangs whereas a normal max hangs session would only include 10-12.
ss nowt

not even thinking about goals at the moment, hoping to have the garage back in a couple of weeks but still busy with work and housey stuff

[cheque]

M- Rest.
T- Week 8 of swiss ball program. Desperate! You need a medicine ball for part of it, which I don't have, so not really done properly.
W- Bolton complex w/ 5kg. Only overhead squat/ press feels hard now. Repeaters on Beastmaker.
T- Indoor routes. Redpointed one from last week, got a new 'project' which should go next week. Bouldering afterwards. Feeling encouragingly strong. Little bit of foot-on campussing to finish with.
F- Rest.
S- Baslow. Working Wallnut traverse until drizzle got too bad. Didn't feel that worked so intended to train at home after but forgot. 
S- Indoor bouldering. Made progress on various steep problems + flashed some others. Foot-on campussing after. Also did a kind of walk-up-and-down-on-the-foot-rungs-while-hanging-rung-5 thing as core training. Bolton complex on return w/ 6kg.

I thought I didn't train much this week, but it turns out I did. Hopefully this means I'm getting fitter! I'm actually seeing gains in finger strength now, so I'm at last improving on my weakest point.

[Oldmanmatt]

Stg- Keep climbing

M- Work
T- Work
W- Quay, boulder warm up and 4x4's on routes (7a's). Felt weak, no stamina.
T- nowt
F- Spent the day in the hospice
S- Dart Rock, mainly for the kids; but got a bit of bouldering done.
S- weights, chest, shoulders and back. FB, repeaters and weighted pull ups (6kg, on the jugs).

Strength is holding up but stamina is an issue. Lack of routine in the training is having an impact, but I seem to be holding static.
Progress is a distant prospect.

[wsmith]

Week 16 of plan. Rest week.

M. Up all of sunday night to finish work. Handed it in 8.30am Monday, went to bed 9am, slept till 5pm , then a FB session. HYP - 6 sets of 10 by 10s. Not as strong as previous session of this for obvious reasons.
T.
W. Pinnacle bouldering. Nothing specific, just volume of trying stuff.
T. Aerocap on board - 4 sets of 20,10s.
F. 20 min run.
S.
S. Pinnacle routes. Nothing specific, just volume of onsight and redpoint attempts. Didnt feel great, heavy, wooden, footwork worse than normal!
20 min run.

Feel fairly rested. Lots on the plan in next 2 weeks.

On weighing in this morning was 68.5kg, heaviest ive ever been. The graph of my weight shows a steady increase from 63kg last August. Going to try to stop this increase from now on, and hopefully loose a bit. Never tried to manage weight before, just recorded it so will see how it goes.

[duncan]

STG: not sure
MTG: E5 / get fit for Switzerland

M - 10mins on x 3, moderately pumped
T -
W - Hill running
T - Fingerboard repeaters 'foot on'
F - Hill running
S - Fingerboard repeaters 'foot on'
S - Short run

+ usual L. foot / R. ankle / L. knee / L+ R shoulder / L. wrist rehab. stuff.

Not sure what I should be doing in terms of short-term goals at the moment. 

[Oldmanmatt]

+ usual L. foot / R. ankle / L. knee / L+ R shoulder / L. wrist rehab. stuff.

Not sure what I should be doing in terms of short-term goals at the moment.

Make a very short list of body parts that are not injured...?

[fried]

Monday - indoor session - easy laps/ no falling.

Tuesday - last physio session, lots of abdo stuff, hamstring stretches. As usual my physio tells me that my posture is crap and I have no flexibility.

Wednesday - indoor session same as above. Cancel my weekend camping at 'le prez'. Missus refuses to do four days in a tent in the rain, no matter how much Lidl Cotes du Rhone I let her have.

Thursday - Shoulder stuff, squats, stretches etc
Friday - indoor - pushing it a bit more.
Saturday - Shoulder stuff etc
Sunday - Indoor, feeling good. Make good progress on a lot of stuff.

4 session in a week is a record for me, seems a month off has helped my shoulder to fully recover. Every cloud and all that...

Crap weather all weekend was a disappointment, but it's Monday morning, the sun is shining and I'm not working...

I'm off in search of some dry rock.

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: BM: max hangs (Front 2 +11kg and one arm hangs with added weight. F.L progs (improving, can now manage one leg fully straight), theraband & eccentric curls
T: Bouldering at the Churnet, managed a new 6C but nothing harder
W: rest
T: BM: max hangs (Front 2 slopey pockets with one arm and the mid pockets with the other, one arm hangs with added weight, one arm pull-ups & managed to hang the lower monos with middle fingers), theraband, eccentric curls & 4m run
F: 4.8m run
S: Bouldering at the Churnet - made some progress on a couple of 7's but not a great session
S: rest - at work

Training is going well. Elbows have been doing quite well recently but right ring finger is still not good. Still need to actually climb a few things to have any chance of meeting my goals.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Climb a load of stuff in the Peak that's currently wet..  Should probably put an indoor goal in if this monsoon's gonna continue - Brown 7c on the circuit board Run some fell races, run 20 miles without being hospitalised 

M: Tor - Lurgy's back with a vengance, had a few goes at Toadside (one of the only things dry ). Worked out all the moves, too ill to go for a RP.
T: Lurgy.
W: Deep lock work on bar - Surprised myself, managed to hold a deep one arm lock on both arms for longer than ever before - result! Went t'Works did majority of yellow circuit (6Cish) too ill to do any sort of endurance stuff.
T: Must have overdid it as lurgy left me bed ridden for half the day - ear, nose, throat and chest not happy... Slept lots.
F: Felt much better AnCap @ The Works - No real structure, just tried brown 7c. Made real progress, 4 more moves than ever before! Faded fast... Wine and Pizza - recovery food.
S: 5.5 mile fell run - Grindleford race course with a bit added on. Planned longer but felt tired so headed back for an early bath.
S: Nowt.

A strange week - felt like shite for most of it but still did a bit and what I did do was of a decent quality...

This week: Feeling better now so getting back on the horse, AnCap, AeroCap, Power Work, Weights and Fingerboarding. Be nice to get outside but not looking likely there'll be much dry. Heading to the Lakes on Friday so will also boulder and run up and down some mountains

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Gym, 2x12 mins arm cycling, 30 mins rec cycling, endurance weights - good, good session on cycling and lots of weights.
T - Indoor routes @ GCC, mid-grade mileage and some falling practise - good, not too crap and did a few falls fine.
W - Gym, warm up arm rec cycling and rowing, hard weights, soft swimming - fine, just trying a different session.
T -  Active rest, 10 mins running - okay, as grim as usual.
F - Rest.
S - Outdoor trad @ Loch Tollaidh, a few mid-grade routes - nice enough, good climbing but felt tired.
S - Outdoor trad @ Diabeg, a few mid-grade routes - nice enough, good climbing but avoided some bigger challenges.

Weight - gigantic gut 76.5 kg.

Fairly good week. On the plus side I did some good training and got out to the glorious North West. Also I seem to have lost a pound or so? Maybe the gymming is paying off? Or maybe the prospect of actual sunshine in Scotland has me shedding a layer of insulation. On the downside I felt like I was puntering around this weekend....I did some really nice routes but felt tired and had no umph for pushing myself as I really want to. I will have a think about how I can improve that....especially since I can't train umph due to my fucked elbow 

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

A week of little training but some success on rock

M:
T:
W:
T: Office Gym: 30 mins PE circuits on  boulder wall; 30 mins shoulders, core, reverse wrist curls
F:
S: Kochel: 11 routes up to & including a powerful, bouldery 6b that was not at all my style. yyfy. Bigger yyfy: the discovery that Kochel is really good and, contrary to my expectations, has worthwile climbing at punter grades, not just Toni Lamprecht 8c's & 9a's. (Although the Atlantis Wall looks extremely impressive and has according to the guidebook one of the densest concentrations of those grades outside Catalonia) The bolt spacing at punter grades is a lot more user-friendly than in the Frankenjura too 
S: Run, 30 minutes. I don't run often these days and this reminded me why. The woods near my house are pretty but flat, and plodding along in them is boring and painful.

[marky8b]

23/4/12
chapel session
Power Endurance (PE)
Run/Warm up
Made circuit harder this week.
8 sets of 30 moves
set 1,2&3 2kg's set4 1kg, set 5 1 kg fail at 25, set 6 0kg no fail, set 7 fail 29, set 8 fail 26. (total moves 230) core 400
push 20 curl 20 x 2
press 20 uprow 20 x 2

Peaked and passed it!!! come dow with the lurgy/virus I think  from overtrainoing. To much intensity in sessions combined with out climbing in the last 3/4 weeks. Nothing all this week taking a rest, thankfully the weather has been shite, although Sharks idea of Spain was good but work stuff and feeling shite put paid to that!

[Nibile]

Good week with less volume but high intensity.
MON 23 Beast, max deadhangs with 6kg. Felt strong, two new PB's: 25" middle monos; 12" 45. Good!!! Vol 7. Int 8+.
TUE
WED bouldering! Two new problems at around 7a+ and 7b. Good links on the project. Poor skin, very hot.
THU Beast, max one arm deadhangs. Felt really good. Briefly hung the 45 RH. Hung the small rung quite well with LH (IMPROVED A LOT!!!); and with 6kg RH. Yyfy! Vol 6+. Int 8+.
FRI easy campusing. Laddering on small and medium rungs. Vol 2. Int 3.
SAT
SUN Board. Two problems set and tried. A lot of new holds. Felt very tired and lethargic the whole day. Very hard to start, then a bit better with a couple of good goes. Vol 5. Int 7.

[Sasquatch]

Goals for current 4 week cycle - Week 2
Weight loss: Drop from 81 to 78kgs - Sunday weight at 79.5kg  Still progressing 

Consistancy:10 min Yoga and 10 min bodyweight circuit in AM, and 30-45 min run everyday.  5/7 on stretch and BW, 6/6 on runs 

Fingers: Hang the 45slopers without nestle or pinch, and back 2 the bottom row 2 finger pockets.  No progress on 45s, but improved from -18kg to 15kg on back 2.

Week 1:
M - Bouldered at wall, made up new problem to work // Run 9Mi
T - Run 3Mi, Bouldered at wall to warm up, Light FB workout (finger sensitive from monday)
W - Run 6mi, Climbing-Active recovery 400 move pyramid (25,50,75,100,75,50,25)
Th - Run 5.2 mi,
F - First Day outside - felt good, repeated a couple of harder lines, then worked new project.  Did all the moves but 1, felt very close!!!!
Sat - Run 3mi
Sun - Run 9mi, Bouldered at wall up to 7B+, then FB Max Hangs felt OK.

Overall happy with the week.  I can tell my body is adapting to the running. The weight is still dropping. Had a good day outside, and best of all no setbacks.

Still too much family stress.  Must learn how to deal with teenager for next 3-4 years........

[shark]

11.6-8 probably

M.
T.AM. Surprisingly dry at Tor. 3 goes working Wild in Me fo first time. Did all moves except one foot move. Surprisingly good. Felt busted. Pleased to lead Sardine clean after but with sun out could only dog up Tin Of.
W. Eve. Wave. Tried hard Pink L2 on exterme right and then back on Pink/Black spots on steep section. Not as shoddy as thought I would be.
T. Day. Aborted fingerboard session as struggled to do warm-up sets
F.
S. AM Shed. Good goes working Oak circuit then some AeroCap 20/10s with extra moves. Black tie do in evening 
S. Coerced into going to Barnsley watching Ben's Rugby last match in a freezing gale (though great to see him score a try) followed by end of season celebrations; ritual humiliation, drinking competitions etc 

Plumbed some new lows psychewise Thurs/Fri with the miserable weather. Actually performed OK on occasion with fingers feeling strong except when I start using the fingerboard  . Not going to Osp as logistics a bit trickier than anticipated for a solo mission. Feel slightly more motivated today.