[leeroy]

Just got a plan sorted to go to France in June I think the Tarn Gorge will be the main focus of attention, although a trip to Seynes/Russan may be possible. Been flicking through the guide and getting psyched. Can anyone recomend any routes that have to be tried? Preferrably bouldery rather than stamina epics (not to important though) and in the grade range 7b-8a. So far on the list is octopus, several things at l'oasif and pyromaniac.

Thanks alot, Nath.

[Adam Lincoln]

Seynes will be boiling in june!

If you want a holiday 8a thats quite bouldery, arnaque.com is the route for you.

[abarro81]

Is tarn rebolted yet? Worth finding out before you get too excited!
All the 7s on Planet Cause wall are brilliant.
Aranque is 7c+.
Almost everything I did there was really good, if it looks good it probably is!

[leeroy]

Seynes will be boiling in june!

Give that one a miss then, thanks.

Is tarn rebolted yet?

Only info i've seen about it (not looked hard at all) was here - http://www.rockfax.com/news/2012/03/19/gorges-du-tarn-brief-access-update/

which would suggest it might be by the time we get there    will make sure its concrete before we go anyway, thanks for the recomendations!

[Adam Lincoln]

Aranque is 7c+.

Still 8a in the guide?

[wsmith]

I was there April last year. A lot of sectors were unbolted at the time but there was also a fair bit that had been rebolted. There was certainly enough for a couple weeks at least if you hadnt been before. Some routes were bolted in the time we were there so I imagine it will be a lot better by now. It seemed that sectors were either almost completely open or almost completely closed. Le Grand Toit, Tennesee and Gullich were where we spent a lot of time as they were open but there were others too.

All the routes we did at Tennesee were amazing but doesnt fit your bouldery criteria. Barbitturique at Gullich is a good bouldery/PE 8a. Octopus is said to be good but I thought it was a bit minging. Le Grand Toit sector is also good but not bouldery.

[Ru]

Aranque is 7c+.

Still 8a in the guide?

And still 7c in real life, so 7c+ is a good compromise.

[leeroy]

I was there April last year. A lot of sectors were unbolted at the time but there was also a fair bit that had been rebolted. There was certainly enough for a couple weeks at least if you hadnt been before. Some routes were bolted in the time we were there so I imagine it will be a lot better by now. It seemed that sectors were either almost completely open or almost completely closed. Le Grand Toit, Tennesee and Gullich were where we spent a lot of time as they were open but there were others too.

All the routes we did at Tennesee were amazing but doesnt fit your bouldery criteria. Barbitturique at Gullich is a good bouldery/PE 8a. Octopus is said to be good but I thought it was a bit minging. Le Grand Toit sector is also good but not bouldery.

very good, Im happy to try more stamina related routes, as they look the best, its just unlikely ill get anywhere due to lack of training/poor fitness.

found an old uncle vid of barbitturique and it looked super, thanks.

arnaque is 7c+ in new guide, although barbitturique is oddly given 6c+.....

[Adam Lincoln]

arnaque is 7c+ in new guide, although barbitturique is oddly given 6c+.....

In true british style best start throwing 7b+ about for it then...

[AJM]

Le Grand Toit, Tennesee and Gullich were where we spent a lot of time as they were open but there were others too.

Grand toit is one of the sectors that's now banned as opposed to just debolted awaiting rebooting. Shaddocks and the other stuff around it are also banned I believe - one of the landowners has decided he doesn't want climbers full stop...

[Ru]

arnaque is 7c+ in new guide, although barbitturique is oddly given 6c+.....

Is that the Rockfax?

[leeroy]

arnaque is 7c+ in new guide, although barbitturique is oddly given 6c+.....

Is that the Rockfax?

How did you guess? 

[Paul B]

Grand toit is one of the sectors that's now banned as opposed to just debolted awaiting rebooting. Shaddocks and the other stuff around it are also banned I believe - one of the landowners has decided he doesn't want climbers full stop...

Thats a real shame, The Gradn Toit had some great routes... Shaddocks less so.

arnaque is 7c+ in new guide, although barbitturique is oddly given 6c+.....

Is that the Rockfax?

  that's pretty funny.

[Stabbsy]

Is there much stuff here that's out of the sun? I've been looking for a venue for a trip in late May/early June, but hadn't considered Tarn.

[north_country_boy]

Is there much stuff here that's out of the sun? I've been looking for a venue for a trip in late May/early June, but hadn't considered Tarn.

Not much really for that time of year. L'oasif and Gullich get afternoon shade, possibly a few other smaller sectors, but the best sectors get a fair bit of sun.

[T_B]

Is there much stuff here that's out of the sun? I've been looking for a venue for a trip in late May/early June, but hadn't considered Tarn.

I went in August. There are a couple of crags that get sun most of the day so are out (as NCB says), but there's still plenty to do. You tend to get a wind that blows through meaning it's quite cool

I liked some of the routes around Planete Groove, which are in the shade.

[groovedog]

Had been meaning to post an update of Tarn rebolt debolt situation.

We went this Easter '12 so fairly current.

I've only included the sectors we went to so can't comment on the others.

De que fas aqui left - Open
"  "  right - open
Figues Au cul - open
Tennesse - a few routes closed.
Le Navire - All closed except for a nasty looking 7b
Calmez Vous - All closed
Arc en ciel - All closed
Tresor du Zebre - All open
Gullich - All open
Club House - half closed
Hollandais - mostly closed
Moulin a Huile Left - All open
moulin " right - Most closed
L'Oasif Left - a few closed
L'Oasif Right - All closed bar one
Planete Causse - All looked open from road.

Some more info here:
http://www.rockfax.com/news/2012/03/19/gorges-du-tarn-brief-access-update/

We had under a week climbing 6s-mid 7's and by the end it was a bit frustrating seeing all these amzing looking routes out of bounds... if anyone can post back when they know any more, keen to get back there soon, magical place.

[Bonjoy]

Tresor du Zebre and the 7c next door are both brilliant.

[leeroy]

Tresor du Zebre and the 7c next door are both brilliant.

thanks jon. they look fairly exposed aswell 

edit - thanks groovedog, great info, much appreciated!

[tomrainbow]

I was there in April and climbed at La Grand Toit - there was nothing to suggest it was banned and there was a smattering of locals there as well. Most of Foetus and Le Za are open too.