[a dense loner]

will kick off wi lucifer, had a devil of a time doin it. font 7b, desperate
michael ange 7b+ desperate, no joy on this

[Kim]

bugger, i thought you meant a font slabs thread
i don't do ridiculously hard

in fact give me a minute...

[dave]

i think this could run and run - afterall everything in font is desperate.

el poussah is desperate. 7a my dick.

[a dense loner]

don't worry neither do i. i meant hard for the grade. i find holey moley utterly desperate. still not done it n tried it enough. frustrating.

[dave]

everyone says holy moly is easy for the grade, but its bollocks. i think i tried it same day i did carnage and got nowhere near.

[Doylo]

holey moley nails, strappal at buthiers was a nice soft 7c now they've made it a nails 7b, miniscule holds. That 7a+ right of composition de forces 6c at Istasis is fucked up. Also involves a matchstick edge, i could go on!!

[Adam Lincoln]

holey moley nails, strappal at buthiers was a nice soft 7c now they've made it a nails 7b, miniscule holds. That 7a+ right of composition de forces 6c at Istasis is fucked up. Also involves a matchstick edge, i could go on!!

7a+ right? Do you mean the traverse thing? Thats a right gift at 7a+!

[Sam]

I did an arete at 95.2 that was supposedly Font 4b. It was harder than the classic 6b at Roche Aux Sabots on the Surplomb boulder...  :?  I don't know why they even bother grading stuff in Font its so variable.

[Jim]

was this on the blue circuit? if so I know the one you mean. Took me ages and felt like at least english 6b. saw it spit off loads of local frenchies  

[unclesomebody]

Well, I just got back from font, and I did el poussah 3rd go and did holey moley last time I was there in about 10 goes.  Neither felt particularly hard, although I have come to expect everything in font to be hard.  However, on the flip side, Magic Bus at Buthiers is easy for 7b+ i reckon and so is Arabesque for 7b+.  

Hard for the grade is something that almost every problem in font comes with.  The slabs especially.  i have found myself in a position on 5's that I simply cna't do the move, and have had to dyno for the top.  Nails.  Font is nails, but I still love it.

[Nigel]

"Hello, Medal company..."

[Nigel]

Oops, sorry the Owen, didn't see the link!

[unclesomebody]

he he    but what i meant was they can't be particularly hard for the grade because I have done them!  On reflection, le blurb, 7b, at cuisinier is nails from what I remember.  I couldn't get near it, and theh guy I was with couldn't get near it and he was really good.  And i thought Medaille en Chocolat was nails for 7a.  i couldn't do that either after many goes...

[a dense loner]

nice touch owen  

[Adam Lincoln]

LOL! I'm just jealous coz you've been to Font in the past 2years and you've climbed better(read harder) problems than I have! Did you see Robbins out there? He just came back a couple of days ago an' all.

g

He was in't Heights on Sunday night. He spent Sunday doing his garden?!  :roll:

[Sam]

was this on the blue circuit? if so I know the one you mean. Took me ages and felt like at least english 6b. saw it spit off loads of local frenchies  

yup the same one, in the 20's I think. Good to hear it perplexes old Johnny Foreigner! I thought hard English 6a moves but several in sucession.  Such a beautiful little problem though.

[unclesomebody]

and i would like to nominate Carnage as being dead hard.  I still can't do the first move.  I'm sure many of you have done it, but it just feels so nails to me...

[Carnage]

and i would like to nominate Carnage as being dead hard...

Cheers. How nice of you to say........

Interesting what you say about Magic Bus on the other thread. Feels hard if you're tall, especially as you can't really use the good toe-hook when going for the last undercut off the pocket as its too bunched up. And your feet keep whaking the ground when going up for the slope.

One of the locals (recognised him from a vid) reckoned 7c for the tall!

[unclesomebody]

he he he....

I agree.  Without some serious double toe hooking action it would be solid 7c.  One guy we were with pissed it with the toe hooks... he probably had nearly all his weight on his twinkle toes... however, i managed to get the toe hooks in (just) but was taking about 5% of my weight with them, and felt like i was doing a one armer off the crimp!

[ian h]

i wanted to try magic bus last time i was there but it was absoloutly soaked. was well gutted. as was attention chef.


 

[Carnage]

I had a mare with it.

That fucking weird finger jam - shoulder press move into the last undercut is nasty, esp if you can't get the toe hook. (although a bit of tape on the fingers helps them wedge in tight).

And it was well greasy- At least, thats my excuse!  :cry:  :cry:

[Tim Heaton]

Why were you going to the last undercut off the shitty pocket? Use the crimp out left, much easier.

Much as I would like to claim 7c for the tall, I'm 6ft 1 (Not sure if that counts as tall?), I don't reckon I could climb that hard, certainly not 1 grade off Neverland  :shock:. You can still get the toe hooks in at my height although it is a bit of a swing as you are quite bunched. Not very good at grading problems but I reckon the reason some people might find it quite difficult is that hanging off your toes is a somewhat unnatural manouvre.