[Oldmanmatt]

Due to abortive trip to Portland today I have time...
Again.

Goals - Keep climbing despite horrendous opposition from life in general.

M- Fingerboard, repeaters. Back two still MIA, but hint of possible return in near future. Core and chest.

T - Dart rock Sesh. Bouldering and Campus. Weak on campus after a long layoff. Only two sets on the mid size, foot on only on the small and then too tired to finish two sets on the large rungs... Aka abysmal.

W - Quay. Bouldering. Stronger. Surprised myself.

T - weights, chest, shoulders and core. Finger board repeaters. Back two just visible, in the distance.

F - Quay. Bouldering and topped a couple routes. 6c+ onsight, 7a (second attempt having "pinged" off the penultimate pinch on first try... Definitely returning to form.

S - rest.

S - Drove two hours to Portland to bag a couple of routes in the sun and get 6yr old daughter to lead her first on rock route (picked out that 3 bolt 2+ at Under Cliff). 2min from Car park the Mrs took a turn for the worse and we had to sack it off. I could almost taste the lime. Perfect conditions... She (the Mrs) felt so bad too.

Such is life.

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain, regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Rest.
T - Outdoor bouldering @ Craigmaddie, steady circuit - good, easy stuff but good movement.
W - Nothing - suck.
T - Outdoor bouldering @ Glen Nevis, mid-range slabs - okay, intended to solo micro stuff but too scared, good technique practise.
F - Active rest, 10 mins running in 2:1 intervals - awful as usual but it got me moving.
S - Outdoor trad @ Round Tower, a few tricky routes - good, mostly felt pretty steady climbing.
S - Outdoor trad @ Silkies Cliffs, couple of routes - okay, got rained off but it was fun.

Decent week. Not enough fitness training but at least I got out on the rock a bit. Mostly gentle stuff due to elbow but did a couple of tricky trad routes and feel fairly on the ball for the start of the season. Did one run which was not a nice experience but I want to get into the habit of it as active rest / general motion. Next week forecast is meh, so more training hopefully.

[csl]

Mon- Leeds wall - managed 4 laps on 6b+ on main wall. But it ruined me a bit for the rest of the session so only did the rest of my 4x4 sets on 6a's still on main wall. Did feet on campus for PE for another 150 moves at the end.
Tues- Core
Wed- Running - Bad knees had to stop at 5km when i meant to do ten.
Thur- Kilnsey afternoon, dogged up to put clips in Ground effect then had three failed red points on the last hard move.
Fri- Kilnsey - got Ground Effect second go of the day, 2nd 7b in a week, buzzing! Got on comedy and did all the moves, might try and get a bit of strength in reserve for this and come back in a month or two.
Sat- Park Run 5km - new pb 19.09. Really want to get sub- 19.
Sun- rest and eating

Aim for april is, to write my dissertation and climb 7b+! And onsight E3.

[Duma]

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) aero every week. Ugh. 6th week since I've done any, heel is nearly sorted now though, so running will soon resume!
- Weight consistently 68ish.  going well
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year. UK tick, font will have to wait till Autumn now
- 5 probs at or above 7C this year. 2 down, 3 to go
- 8a this year. only been on a string once so far, but still keen

M - nowt, rest after the weekend exploits
T - nowt, rest
W - TCA for an hr before work, left wrist felt very weak and dodgy from first warm up - arse. Kept it very easy
T - nowt, wrist sore
F - TCA for an hr before night shift, wrist taped up and seemed a little less fucked, still kept it easy though
S - nowt, night shifts
S - nowt, night shifts

Weight: 68-69
Rubbish week, did fuck all, and wrist is pissing me off. No idea how I did it, no sign of a tweak on Sun on Mossatrocity 

[TobyD]

M stamina session at torbryan, 10 or so laps, mostly on a7b
T ansteys, 3 laps on empire of the sun, and a couple of goes at avenged
W a great couple of hour bike ride
T nowt; moved to liverpool though!
F 40 minute run & a light session at the climbing hangar, which seems like a great wall
S Malham; first session since last august, remembered just how good it is, and tried straightened a few times
S Clywd limestone bouldering.... got a proper kicking on some 7a+s, but a good day of pulling in the sun.

[shark]

Thanks OMM

11.3-4

M.Eve. Shed. Doing links on Oak circuit
T. Day. Started doing fingerboard session but was weak so stopped. Eve. Wave with Ben and Poppy. New problems. Laid siege to new pink black spots
W. Day. Systems board fingery endurance - no gains again but at least consistent. Some weight lifting - reasonably strong
Eve. Wave. Another sess on pink black spots. Progress but tired earlier than should have.
F. Shed. Fairly hopeless session on Oak moves/links
S.
S. Decided would be too hot for Malham so went to Trollers Gill. Failed to onsight Haslam then Angel Delight, then failed to redpoint Haslam. Bit early to be onsighting so shouldnt be disappointed at poor performance - but I am

Lacklustre week all told. Off to Font next weekend. May squeeze in a morning at Tor on tuesday if work/weather allows.

[wsmith]

Week 12 of plan.

M. Garage. Aerocap - 3 sets of 20,10s. 1 set of 8 min continuity.
T. Garage. 40 min max bouldering. Ancap - 2 x 5 reps of new 16 move ancap circuit. Rep rest 2 min. Set rest 6 min. Feels like a good circuit, have to try mega hard.
W. Gym. Antagonistic weights. 10 min run. 10 min row.
T. Warwick. 6 or so hard problems on the more vert walls. Aerocap - 4 x 10 min continuity.
F.
S. LPT. Warmed up on Kaffe Fasset. 3 redpoints on Statement. 2 6c onsights on upper tier.
S. LPT. Did Statement on 3rd redpoint of the day. YYFY. So happy!

Missed 1 aerocap and 1 ancap because of the weekend but was so worth it. Motivation is high 

[Duma]

S. LPT. Did Statement on 3rd redpoint of the day. YYFY. So happy!

Nice one! 

[miso soup]

M.  Yoga, shoulder rehab exercises, Ibuprofen 400mg.
T.  Yoga, shoulders.
W.  Arch - shortish, easyish.  No routes, no roofs.  Finger feeling almost fully recovered, wrist is probably as good as it's going to get.  Yoga, shoulders.
T.  Wall.  Failure to repeat stuff I've done before but not by a massive margin.  Yoga, shoulders.
F. 
S.  Harrison's.  Spent most of the day on the north boulder failing to top out Torque Wrench.  Bit annoying but still felt great just to be outside on rock.  Eventually wandered further along and did some fun, easy stuff.  Shoulders.
S.  Yoga, shoulders.  15 press-ups, 10 more with feet on step.  All nice and slow with good form but did feel it a little in the shoulder, perhaps still not wise.

Still not made it to the physio.  Shoulder sometimes seem like there's more cracking but with less intensity on the individual cracks, sometimes seems like nothing has changed.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M:
T: Bike to work 27km; shoulder mobility exercises
W: Wall, Thalkirchen: 10 routes up to 6c (project)
T: Shoulder mobility & pressups. Shoulder Mobility Challenge figure: 25cm. 3cm better than last week yyfy.
F:
S: Wall, Gilching: 8 routes up to 6b+ (rp)
S: swimming with kids: (slightly) active rest. Shoulder mobility

[BB]

Seeing as the climbing season is about to kick off in Aus, i thought I'd jump in here.

STG - Vitamin C and Mr. Smiley at Sissy

M - Evening session at Sissy. Bagged my first 5 there
T - Fingerboard session
W - Spin class
T - Indoor session at Brookvale
F - Dinner out with the missus
S - 85km road ride from Manly to West head, Swim in the afternoon
S - early morning Sissy session, did a variant to an existing 4 and beasted myself on a couple of 5s

Temps are dropping and the friction is improving. Clocks went back on Sunday so will need to source a worklight is evening outdoor sessions are to continue.

[duncan]

Aims: rehabilitation

Finally, after weeks of work nonsense, perpetual coughing and croaking, a sprained ankle followed by a tweaked wrist, I have some activity to report.

M - V.short run.  A bit tight-chested.
T -
W - Short run.  As before
T - 5 mins gentle traversing at The Arch.  Wrist sore
F -
S - 5 mins c.F4. Wrist less sore. 
S -

Verdon this weekend.  I've not climbed outdoors for 4 months.  This could be interesting!

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: rest
T: BM: front 2 max hangs and repeaters, 4m run, f.l. progs, theraband & eccentrics
W: BM: assisted one armers, f.l. progs & theraband
T: nothing
F: nothing
S: Bouldering on eastern lime, tried some good 7's, great day out, felt ruined by the end.
S: Easy bouldering at Harborough rocks in the sun & 8m trail run

Too many rest days this week, most ended in the pub as the weather was so nice! Climbing is going well at the moment, feel I'm climbing reasonably, just need to translate this into more completed climbs.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Peak routes up to 7c+

M: Fingerboard, weights + stretching.. Hard!
T: AnCap on board - Set a 15 move circuit and only managed the full thing once (reckon that's about the right intensity), had to stop after 3 sets though because of tweaky shoulder and split tip opening up again. Wrecked! Pint.
W: Active rest (my arse) - 15+ mile fell run from Edale to Burbage - Ended up with cramp in both legs as we hit Stanage causeway forcing me to walk/hobble/jog/walk to Burbage North carpark (intended finish was foxhouse but 2 more mile like that was never gonna happen). Longest run of my life and soooo not restful....
T: AereoCap @ The Works - Feel spring cold that I've been ignoring begining to come out...
F: Tor with Chris - TR'd Sardine to warm up, got new beta that makes it feel loads easier but bailed due to coughing fit and head full of snot
S: Lurgy
S: Abortive walk up Loose Hill (took the wrong route and trampled through farmers fields for a couple of hrs - doh!). Lurgy feels like it's on the wane..

Not the week I expected but did a lot - Although the run was probably a bad idea I did shift the best part of a kilo which surprised me... Like the idea of including 1 long(ish) fell run in my weekly training but think I'll work up to 15 miles next time. Getting lurgy sucks but better to get it over with now than when the season really kicks in..

This week: Get over this cold & get bloody Sardine done and do some training!

:D

[Nibile]

MON 26 system. dynoing on pinches with feet on. 1-4-6 x 4 times. system lock offs + 6kg. 8 moves for 5 sets. 1 set with no weight. system bouldering x6. system bouldering footless x4. mental tr. vol 8. int 9.

TUE 27 rest.

WED 28 system. 1-4-6 x 6. 1-2-3-4-5 laddering matching on each rung, feet on x 6. system bouldering footless x 10. system boulder x8. system boulder + 6kg x2. mental tr. vol 8. int 8.

THU 29 board. bouldering. tired!!! vol 3. int 8. mental tr.

FRI 30 active rest. teaching climbing classes.

SAT 31 bouldering. one armers then the roof. good power, good core. poor skin. very hot.

SUN 1 bouldering. hard to get going. hot. really bad at reading problems, always blinders on. have to fix this. poor skin. good links on the new project.
get in.

[fried]

Back muscle still sprained, but getting better by the day, just don't want to fall off and go back to square one. So

Monday - Wednesday - Nothing but some stretches and walking a lot.
Thursday - First indoor session for a month, just a physio session really climb up 3 jugs, climb back down 3 jugs. traverse on jugs.
Friday - nothing
Saturday - Hottee du diable. More hanging around on jugs and traversing.
Sunday - walking a lot.

[Sasquatch]

Mon - FB - 2 x 6 repeater sets, 1 x 6 max hangs, Run 5 mi
Tues - Boulder at wall - Felt REALLY Strong  , Campus Session - maxed at 1-4-6, both arms and 1-3-6 left but not right
Weds - Active Recovery, ARC - Run 4.5mi
Thurs - Active Recovery, ARC - Bike 45min
Fri - REST
Saturday - AM x-country ski 8mi (really gnarly ski - terrible conditions), PM climb - Routes OS up to 7c, then boulder-felt worked and terrible bouldering (I think the ski really took alot out of me, I went with someone in much better shape and got owned  )
Sunday - Boulder - Felt much better than yesterday.

Goal was to have a fairly light week after Tuesday.  Ended up not so light, but I feel good today.  Fly out tonight for 8 days in Joe's Valley. 

 

[marky8b]

Start of Power Endurance phase...but due to good weather been out climbing

26/3/12
PE session
run/warm up
Not a good session trying to get right circuits...
Eventually 6 sets on steep wall and 4 sets on 20 degree wall (300moves total)
300 core weighted

28/3/12
ANP & power session
100 moves on various problems
Weighted pulls 12kg x 5, 17kg x 3, 20kg x 2, 25kg x 1, 12kg x 6
Dead Hang 10sec on 10 secs off x 4 x3
Core work

29/3/12
Crag x climbing
warm up 6b+ 7c+ came off last move!
came out in the dark.. around 150 moves

30/3/12
Cheedale two teir
6b+ & 7a warm ups, onto "Orange Sunshine 7c+ got all moves worked very quick but blue the Red Point on 3rd go...back next week. Great to be trying harder stuff.

[gollum]

LTG - be happy

M- bouldering at Leeds, just a bit of play. Play on new fingers stuff. In element.
T- campus and BMW repeaters, poor session and weak
W- back to Leeds, lots of laying down starts nonsense
T- same as Tuesday
F- Leeds again, feeling better
S- go to Works feel uninspired. End up at Brighouse, not great but comp wall fun
S- campus session where manage 1-5-8 on big holds and 1-5-7.5 on mids. Follow it up with repeaters with weight belt, is forearm shaking during set a good thing? Doubt it but feeling strong. Finish with some footless laps on easy roof prob.

Overall started badly but got better.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Finish off Cliff tickage mission by Easter (though I think end of 2012 is more likely now)
LTG: Font 7b

S - Journey / arrival in Font...realised we'd hit a period of intense heat for our week away!
S - Petit Bois. Good start on some of the slopier / trickier Black problems and then repeated falling off Big Jim.
M -  Isatis. Good day plodding round some of the reds / blues with mates and then repeated greasing off El Poussif / L'Angle Bens.
T - Rocher St Germain. Thought I'd bagged a 7a in Prose Profane: http://bleau.info/germain/1038.html but then found out the arete is out. On to Canon, pottered on reds until energy / skin ran thin.
W -  Rest day. Lunch and a beer in Milly in the sun.
T - Back to Petit Bois. Managed a 7a(ish) in Les Vacances A Bombay: http://bleau.info/petit/8022.html and fell off Big Jim a lot more.
F - Rocher Guichot. Completely burned out, wobbled up a few 6 slabs.
S - Journey back from Font.
S - Nowt. Sunday Lunch and an afternoon snooze.

[shark]

LTG - be happy

[Fiend]

Not as easy as it seems from the outside, eh!

Nice motivation tho.

[JDobo]

I think I'm going to start logging my climbing on here so i can see how much I'm improving, can't remember everything I did last week but ill give it my best  .
M Rest
T A short bouldering session focusing on weaknesses, mostly big powerful moves on some of my own problems. Went quite well but stopped before i started to become fatigued.
W ?
T Rest
F 2hrs of bouldering at NWF mostly just repeats of earlier climbs (V4/V5) but with better footwork.
S Gym
S A few hours at brownstones (nothing serious just a play around on all the walls since it was my first time)

[nai]

phew just made it, thought I'd miss out due to lack of expected wi-fi last week

M - pottering at burbizzle north, had a look at giza but realised how scary it is without 5 pads and a spotter
T - pottering at curbizzle with the nipper, turned into a beasting in the gruffalo cave GW block. decided I'd best give skin a rest before next week
w
T 5km run
f - drive to folkestone
s- drive to font


s-