[biscuit]

I've just done a quick search but couldn't see anything obvious, apologies if this has been done before.

I've just started climbing on hard ( for me ) tufas. I've tweaked my right forearm in the lateral epicondylosis which in climbing is often caused by pinching according to:

http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdf

If i put my hand above my head in an undercut position and pinch my fingers together it = max pain.

I know the best way to get better is to get on them and figure out better body positions, and i will be doing that, however i am finding it a problem just to hold them. I can get to them and grab them but when i take weight off another limb i ping off. Core seems to be OK.

My ideas so far are:

1) pinch blocks of wood with weights hanging off them and stick to similar regime as fingerboarding

2) my fingerboard is in a place where i am able to grab it the wrong way round i.e. palms facing me. I was considering doing some hangs that way round. I am guessing the orientation of the palm makes a difference to which muscles are used.

3) ?

This is where you lot come in 

I don't have access to weights other than dumbells or a gym btw but am happy to sort out anything i can do at home.

[TobyD]

Do you have access to a board? Set problems on undercuts and pinches, or use the systems board at a wall if your local dive has one? The more climbing specific you can make your training the more effective it will be for a given time invested, you could probably do a certain amount by designing complex pinch - trianing apparatus, but yarding on some pinches on a steep board has got to be choice number one really

[Nibile]

If you can, work underclings especially on a system board. By doing so you can vary how high above your head to grab them, as you know it's harder to lock an undercling when it's very high. And it works your core better in my opinion.

[ShortRound]

Biscuit has missed out some background information......

He lives in Southern Spain surrounded by epic amounts of dry rock but no indoor wall. So applying Toby and Nibile's advice to outdoors, are there any easier tufa lines on which you could throw laps/do exaggerated long powerful moves on?

We can always find some decent wall routes when I come over if pinching tufas are aggravating an injury, I'm happy to get on anything!

Steve.

[biscuit]

Cheers guys. I left out the important bit that there are no training facilities within an hours drive.

I do have this though:

http://biscuitsblogspot.blogspot.com.es/2011/09/el-torcalita-spanish-ethics.html

The pics show a local training area where people have made tufas out of sika and is about 40 degrees overhanging.

I am planning on getting on that i was just wondering if there was anything supplemental i could be doing at home on the fingerboard etc.

Is it worth deadhanging with my palms facing me like you do on an undercut ? Does it change the way your forearm works ?

Don't worry Steve i am sure this is just an acute thing with my elbow and it'll be fine when you come over. Loads of different stuff at Loja etc. anyway so no worries about your plans.

[cheque]

Is it worth deadhanging with my palms facing me like you do on an undercut ? Does it change the way your forearm works ?

It seems to. I've had almost immediate success by doing that in the last couple of weeks.

[ducko]

By the sound of things the best advice would be to let your injuries recover then start training as the boyos above have said

[biscuit]

Is it worth deadhanging with my palms facing me like you do on an undercut ? Does it change the way your forearm works ?

It seems to. I've had almost immediate success by doing that in the last couple of weeks.

Cool, i'll give it a go and report back.

I will of course also hit undercuts/pinches as much as i can at the training crag and get body positioning sorted with some guidance.

Cheers.