I've just done a quick search but couldn't see anything obvious, apologies if this has been done before.
I've just started climbing on hard ( for me ) tufas. I've tweaked my right forearm in the lateral epicondylosis which in climbing is often caused by pinching according to:
http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdfIf i put my hand above my head in an undercut position and pinch my fingers together it = max pain.
I know the best way to get better is to get on them and figure out better body positions, and i will be doing that, however i am finding it a problem just to hold them. I can get to them and grab them but when i take weight off another limb i ping off. Core seems to be OK.
My ideas so far are:
1) pinch blocks of wood with weights hanging off them and stick to similar regime as fingerboarding
2) my fingerboard is in a place where i am able to grab it the wrong way round i.e. palms facing me. I was considering doing some hangs that way round. I am guessing the orientation of the palm makes a difference to which muscles are used.
3) ?
This is where you lot come in
I don't have access to weights other than dumbells or a gym btw but am happy to sort out anything i can do at home.