[csl]

Just getting this started early so i can get on with some work.

Mon- nothing
Tues- Gogarth - Emulator and the Strand after a late start
Wed- Slate - Launching pad, german schoolgirl and a failure on the mau mau
Thur- Dinas Cromlech - fell off left wall with flash pump. Very depressing!
Fri- Nothing
Sat- Park Run - slowish time cos i was hungover - 19.54 but the best position i've come so far with 22nd. Aiming for a top 20 finish at some point. Then Malham - Got Seventh Aardvark second go of the day, my first 7b. Then tried yosemite wall, which i thought was pretty crap and very nearly got appetite 3rd go, fell from jugs above the roof. Felt like a good day out!
Sun- Writing my dissertation and probably a 5k later on.

[shark]

Thanks csl
11.3-5

M. Day. Deadhang and Encore session. Been getting consistent gains week-on-week from these Monday sessions.
T. Eve. Wave with Ben and Poppy. Pitiful sessions
W.Day. Systems board fingery endurance. Seem to have plateaued. Eve. Wave. Unexpectedly good session despite the earlier board session. A double session combo worth remebering
T. Eve. Shed. Bit of bouldering on Oak moves felt solid – roll on Saturday !
F.
S. Malham. Weight low, expectations high. Oak dry but hotter than July. Played the waiting game and still lost. Got spat off the start of the Oak (and skooled by the Chadmeister), Raindogs and even Yosemte Wall. Massively disappointed, confidence knocked for six.
S. Felt wiped out. Afternoon nap. Shed. Quite strong on Oak moves 

Looks too hot for Malham this week and have a lot of work to do anyway. Might seek counselling. Font in two weeks.

[tomtom]

Hard work and hard boozing all week....
Got out Sunday to Harmers

[fried]

Back still wrecked. It's been getting better all week and at least a bit more mobility comes back each day. Just being careful don't want to pull it again.

Monday -Friday - Trying to walk at least an hour a day to get a bit of blood flowing.

Saturday - Beautiful day in the forest, did a tour of Montrouget, arcades, Roche qui tourne. Looked at this which is one of the years projects. http://bleau.info/rochequitourne/2215.html

Missus banned me from even putting my foot on a rock, she's getting a bit fed up of having to carry all the shopping etc. So a beautiful day but frustrating.

Today- more walking about, stretching etc.

Hopefully get an easy session in at the end of the week, but I'll just wait it out if I don't feel O.K.

Weight 73.5kg

[fried]

Also, forgot to mention already 20° in the forest. Incredible 'cos only 4 weeks ago it was about minus 10.

[shark]

Sat: first ascent of infamous unclimbed local project ... 7b+? 7c? possibly an all-time personal best 

 

[Oldmanmatt]

Goals- temporarily on hold... (I did look at Supertrooper yesterday... From the car park).

One short session at the Quay (I can't even remember which day).

A frustrating session at Bone Hill yesterday (A few classics repeated, but mainly a day for the kids).

Recommenced on the FB today. Not bad, slight drop in performance, not as bad as feared, although back two appear to be MIA...

Resolved to restart training this week, if I can drag my moping arse back into the world...

[leeroy]

Pretty decent week. Trying to make up for lost time on the trad front.

M - good day on burbage with emlyn. did giza and the alliance. best part of the day watching michele nearly tick voyager ss.
T - Rest
W - Masters of the universe on burbage, good flash by ethan.
T - Speak the truth ticked quickly. Oh so nearly did spare rib after aswell, lovely sandbag 7b....
F - Rest
S - Wimberry, did the classic problems, fish arete ss, winsome, think tank etc. very hot.
S - rest after skin was recked at wimberry. went blackwell dale in the evening - ticked a wet swing time and did all the moves on paint it black (new proj)

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M: Beastmaker
T: Office gym employee health day including shoulder mobility checkup
W: Wall, Thalkirchen: 7/8 routes up to 6b
T: Shoulder mobility exercises
F: Wall, Thalkirchen: routes stamina session on my nemesis: steep pumpy jug hauls. 10 of these up to 6a+
S: Dolomites approach training: 20 mins step-ups w/10kg rucksack. Shoulder mobility exercises
S: Sport climbing, Scharnitz. Good to start getting some rock mileage in for the start of spring, but I am also increasingly realising that low grade limestone sport tends to range from crap to so-so. Fortunately this is a problem with an obvious solution: climb harder.

[Duma]

Effort IO#2 and OMM.

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) aero every week
- Weight consistently 68ish 
- 7C+ in UK  and Font this year
- new aim #1 5 probs at or above 7C this year
- new aim #2 8a this year

M - Burbage W - repeated The Nose at the end of warming up, then managed Western Eyes in a couple of hours, and Jason's Mono between goes on WE. Went and failed on FG for a bit to bring myself back down to earth, then mooched over to Burbage N and did all the Banana Finger problems, and then everything on 20ft crack wall and the numbers wall (these are brilliant! Can't believe I'd never done them before)
T - Curbar - Trackside (couple of goes), GW (flash), ED (flash), then Sean's Arete bit a hole in my thumb so I contented myself with The Rise of the Robots and Art of Japan (both brilliant) to finish the day. Drove back to Bristol.
W - nowt
T - Cheddar with Tris and Pete - first time on a rope for 3 years, so was a bit apprehensive, but really enjoyed it. Got Rave Party (7a+) and Mescalito (7c - but prob 7b+ really) both first redpoint. Ace day - see new aim #2
F - nowt, drive to peak in eve.
S - Gardoms - very misty first thing, Full Power was damp and felt impossible so pressed on to the crag circuit - Pogles Wood SS (brilliant move), then it got boiling... Lots of failures on Perfect Day direct, Fearful Orange (brilliant, and tough!), English Voodoo (flash, prob not worth 7A), English Voodoo SS (kind of flash - as in, first go once I got my arse off the floor...) Charlotte Rampling was chalked, looked awesome and very tempting, I actually pulled on before deciding discretion was the better part of valour when alone at the crag. Props to Nathan!
S - Padley Gorge - did the Stand and all the moves on Mossatrocity pretty quick, then fell off the last move repeatedly until skin and temperatures forced a retreat. Still felt like a good day though, hopefully will go quick next visit. Cheers for the beta and spot to the two guys I met there as well.

Weight: 68ish ALL WEEK need to keep an eye on this though...
Anyway, brilliant week!

[nai]

good week for lots of people, well done everyone   

season goals 7C (Underhand Extension (Famous Grouse not so likely now))
summer goals - E4 & 8a but waaaay behind in my training

M - 5km run, felt dreadful, might have something to do with Sunday's exersions on Underhand and subsequent refuelling
T - tried to fingerboard but skin too sore, did pressups pullups, a few weights, etc
W Rested, realised that tomorrow was possibly my last chance to get back to the cliff this season, hatched a cunning plan...
Th - realised that a few early attempts on Sunday had failed possibly due to my warm up not having activated the core so warmed up at DWR area today doing Crucifix Eliminate (which I remember playing on a lot when I was more local years ago but I'm not sure I ever did) before moving on to the main event.  Whether due to the strategy or having all but done it already it went 2nd attempt of the day, much to my relief.  Set about working the extension which came together quickly then tried to link it all together.  Unfortunately I suddenly felt dog-tired, this after only just over an hour's climbing, still suffering from Sunday I think.  Took a rest, ate some food, tried to MTFU but to no avail, had a couple more attempts but just couldn't repeat the lunge for the lip although I did get straight back on and complete from there so optimistic I could do it if the weather allows a return.  Headed home less than an hour and a half after arriving and was back in Sheffield for afternoon tea.  Won't be able to get there until after Easter now but if there's a chance of a cold day anywhere it's got be Almscliffe so maybe, just maybe it could happen (sorry to be such a fickle grade chaser)

F - Realised the garage board was accessible so got in there, expected to get blown out but managed 4x4 1m reps, 50s rest, 3mins between sets. rested a minute , repeated a rep, rested again and managed 47/52 moves.
s nowt
S - 6x7 rep repeaters middle sloper & big slots

[TobyD]

M - battered from 4 days on climbing; road biked 20-25 miles in lovely sunshine
T - pixies circuits 8 laps on 20 move circuit + locky steep pinches
W - brean down, redpointed storm warning 7c+ and el chocco 7c; both felt very steady. nearly OS'd prisoner of conscience 7b+
T - mellow trad at chudleigh about 8 or so pitches E2-4
F - road biked up to Dartmoor, fairly long circuit over Haytor with a few hills of moderate beastlyness
S- cheddar, rp'd 7b+, 7b, 7a+, went out for sushi and beers mmmm...
S - pixies 9 laps of 20 move circuit+ road biked about 20 miles

[wsmith]

Week 11 of plan - Rest Week.

M. 20 min run.
T.
W. Gym - antagonistic weights, sliding pullups, 15min treadmill run + 10 min rowing. Could feel left elbow twinging a bit. Routes at warwick in the evening, nothing specific just trying stuff.
T. 4000m rowing.
F. 20 min run.
S. Slight tweak in index finger in the day, went in the garage and did some bouldering to set up a new 16 move ancap circuit and it disappeared     20 min hill run.
S. Forest rock - abbed off to clean up Sorceress 7b+. Did it second go.  Recovering much better on jugs now from the aerocap i think 

Ok week for a rest week. Managed to do some cardio even if it was short sessions. Not sure why the tweaks appear when I take some rest but at least they were short lived. More ancap on the plan from next week on.

[shark]

Not sure why the tweaks appear when I take some rest but at least they were short lived.

Listen to your body - it's telling you not to rest. Or maybe it's telling fibs. HTH.

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: rest
T: BM: Front 2 max hangs and repeaters, 4m run, f.l. progs, eccentrics & theraband
W: 4m run, f.l. progs, eccentrics & theraband
T: BM: Front 2 max hangs and repeaters, one arm work, 4m run, f.l. progs, eccentrics & theraband
F: rest
S: Bouldering at Cratcliffe and RHS
S: Small amount of easy trad and some bouldering at Baslow.

My body feels knackered today so I must have tried hard! Didn't climb anything hard but had a really nice couple of days out at the weekend. Been icing my finger all week and it seems to be going well so far. Once it recovers fully I will start some crimp training on the BM to try and avoid it happening again.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: A bunch of sport routes up to 7c+

M: Nowt
T: 4 x 4's on works circuit board - Finding the woodies good for this now so must be moving in the right direction.
W: 6 Mile fell run round Lonshaw and Burbage.
T: AeroCap on BM + Stretching - 4 x 150 moves with feet on chair @ 8 mins rest.
F: Nowt
S: Tor - Repeated falls off Sardine, what a complete punter! Did manage to link the crux to the top so it's just a matter of time but felt like a complete sack of spuds. Fell off the first traverse twice and even fell off while clipping the bolt after the traverse back (which isn't a nice fall as I found out!)... Balls!
S: Gardening....

Rest week: Thought that the easy nature of the weeks training would leave me fresh for the weekend @ the Tor but felt like a sack of spuds. To be honest the conditions didn't help (condensed when we turned up then went straight to red hot) but that's just excuses; the fault was all mine.... Split me bloody finger again too, arse! So much for a quick tick

This week: 1st AnCap based week of 3... Get out, finish Sardine! 

:D

[tomtom]

season goals 7C (Underhand Extension (Famous Grouse not so likely now))

You got Underhand done? excellent

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain, regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Gym, 15 mins arm cyc, 20 mins rec cyc, 15 mins rowing, light weights - okay, rec cycling back to feeling desperate, arm cyc good tho.
T - Indoor routes @ Ratho - 8 medium routes + falling practise - good, I did falling practice! Apocalypse ride last week helped! No stamina tho.
W - Gym, 15 mins arm cyc, 20 mins rec cyc, 15 mins rowing - okay, rec cycling still hard, no weights.
T - Rest.
F - Rest.
S - Outdoor trad @ Gruinard Bay, few medium routes - good, was just getting into trad so backed off slightly harder routes, but great to be out.
S - Outdoor trad @ Stone Valley, few medium routes and steep walking - good, pushed myself better, legs aching from walking, great day.

Good week. Falling practise was particularly important, after being on "Britain's scariest rollercoaster ride" it felt quite tame in comparison, I wish Drayton Manor was closer, I'd spend a day on that fucker. Really going to try to keep up with that practise this year. Stamina was fuck all but am going to switch to training that now.

Gym okay. Still....just plain hard.

Weekend was great. Felt so natural and so right to be back in North West Scotland after 10 months of the weather being too crap for a trad trip there. Was punting around mostly but just warming up into it....only 2nd and 3rd trad days of the year, not done any since....October I think. Big day out on Sun with some stiff walking too....this will really do me good, need to have days out like this as often as possible.

This week....car in for shizzle so no gym and maybe no wall. Gonna try running daily.

[marky8b]

Easy Week/Transition into PE
20/3/12
Chapel Session Easy week
ANP & ARC
15 move problem 8 reps 2/3mins rest intervals. New harder problem failure on 7th 8th (110 moves)
20,10's x 3 sets 180 moves per set (540 moves)
450 weighted core work
1 set circuit training

22/3/12
Bridge session outside!!!
2 x 17/18 mins ARC total number of moves 500+

24/3/12
Crag X 400 moves of ARC and redpointing Routes 6b to 8a...
Came off last move on the 7c+ on first go, then sequence shit there after...another good session at crag x 

[Nibile]

MON 19 - nothing, very tired and lethargic.
TUE 20 - climbing wall in Florece. good volume, generally tired. too hot inside, skin gave up after one hour. badly timed lunch, surely had a negative impact. volume 7/10. intensity 7/10.
WED 21 - Beastmaker. max deadhangs with 6 kg on, 3 sets for each hang. 45°, slopey pockets, small pockets front2 half crimp, back2 medium, index monos, middle monos, small pockets middle2, small rung back3, small rung front3. vol 7/10. int 9/10.
THU 22 - board. good power. bouldering. bouldering with 6 kg on x 6 problems of 7-8 moves. vol 7/10. int 8/10.
FRI 23 - active rest, teaching climbing class.
SAT 24 - system board. core on pinches, 4 on big ones, 4 on small ones. lock offs with 6 kg (8 moves) and bodyweight (10 moves) alternated. 6 sets in total. system bouldering (3 moves, then one arm deadhang on top hold) with 6 kg, 8 reps. vol 9. int 9.
SUN 25 - board. really good session. short, but with a few projects climbed. special focus on mental training. vol 6. int 8+.

[Fiend]

What mental training, Nibble??

[Nibile]

What mental training, Nibble??

I train, then I get mental. 
focusing on concentration, on making everything perfect. on "getting the thing done"

[Fiend]

Pro! 

[Sasquatch]

Good Week!!!!

Monday - Run 5.5 Miles , FB
Tuesday - Si 5 miles at Lunch, Power Bouldering (lots of Dynos) then Campus/circuit Workout - 2 hrs total
Wednesday - Run 3 miles
Thursday - Run 5.5 Miles , FB
Friday - Run 2 miles AM, Campus/Power Workout at Lunch
Saturday - Boulder for about 2.5 hours on all new problems at the gym, Skate Ski 12.5 Miles
Sunday - REST FINALLY!!!!

New Personal Best on both Campus, Fingerboard, and if the grades at the gym are right best OS.  Feeling reallly good for next week's trip to Joes!!!

[miso soup]

Okay I'm in.  This year I stop puntering around and start training.  Serious business.  But first I have to get uninjured so there might not be much climbing for a little while.  I reckon a rehab diary could be as useful to me as a training diary anyway, what convinced me to start this was reading a post of mine from November whinging about my shoulder and realising how long it's been dodgy for.

Short term goal: rehabilitate injuries.
Mid-term goal:  regain previous level, introduce structured training and injury prevention.
Long term goal:  7A in Font, work less climb more.

Monday 19th - Good session on my wall, made some progress on project.  Contrast bath for finger, wrist rehab exercises, rotator cuff exercises, yoga.  Shoulder makes some terrifying noises when stretching it out, decide I might not be ready to start climbing again after all.
Tuesday 20th - Rotator cuff exercies, Ibuprofen 1.2g.
Wedneday 21st - Yoga, Ibuprofen 800mg.
Thursday 22nd - Yoga, new UKB-sourced shoulder rehab exercises, Ibuprofen 800mg.
Friday 23rd - Yoga, shoulder rehab exercises, Ibuprofen 800mg.
Saturday 24th - Up at stupid o' clock for work, not enough sleep, some lifting aggravates shoulder a bit.  Yoga, shoulder rehab exercises, Ibuprofen 800mg.
Sunday 25th - Yoga, shoulders, couple sets of 15 press-ups, Ibuprofen 800mg.