[gruffalo]

I've started working on a v9 which is right on my limit...
The problem is very overhanging and the moves are very spaced out with long pulls to each hold, while still maintaining good core to keep my feet on. I'm having trouble pulling through each section, the fingers are holding firm but I'm wondering ware the weekness is? I have aching shoulders which may indicate I'm lacking in burl in that area? Need some training advice before I can crush!

[Dexter]

is it somewhere you can get to regularly? if so my advice would be just keep working it and you will develop the muscles needed to do it. If not then try similar style moves i.e. big moves. Not a lot of help I know but thats about it from me. I'm sure some other people will have better advice to give. Good luck hope you send it.

Also just out of curiosity what V9 is it?

[SOH]

Since you mentioned aching shoulders i would suggest some rotator cuff exercises. These are the tiny muscles and tendons that act to stabilize the shoulder socket joint. They largely get overlooked and since they are quite small in comparison to your delts (bigger shoulder muscles) they can get injured quite easily espcially with skinny lean climbers who have never done specific weight training before. Just google "Rotator Cuff exercises" and you should come across the usual ones e.g. external rotations using a cable machine or lying on your side with a small dumbell. Just make sure to use light weight as they are small muscles so are easily strained, 3 sets of 10 reps with a 1 or 2 kg dumbell works well for me. reps 1 and 2 should feel piss but you should feel a good burn my reps 9 or 10.

[gruffalo]

Sounds like a plan to keep the rotator muscles in good condition.
Doing the problem over and over again will get me strong on those moves
I guess. It's jerrys roof I'm working on absolute fucking classic!

[Nibile]

In which way do you struggle? Do you cut loose and fall? Or are you solid in the positions but cannot linkthem? Or what else?
Ps. Great problem!

[gruffalo]

It's the first five moves for me that feel spread out and powerfully. Have to go right down to the low jug with two hands before reaching for the big pinsh with my left then a dirty pull through to the shit sloper with my right.
I can do the problem in three bits but not linked them yet
Maybe my power endurance is lacking in finess?..

[Nibile]

I haven't tried it, but I've been there and I remember it. for sure some PE is required, but also a very strong core. on very overhanging rock I find that if my core is weak I just can't pull either!!!

[gruffalo]

Sound advice Nibs... Will be jumping on some core stuff this week and see what happens!

[ducko]

Get that core strong holds are good on that problem it's just hard on the shoulders and core muscles! P.s there's a foothold you can use on the left to stop you cutting loose! What a problem!
Good luck!