[Duma]

Going to drive up to the peak in a minute so thought I'd start us off...

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) aero every week
- Weight consistently 68ish
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year

M - TCA - heel improved from fri, but still being careful with it. Good session though, steep bouldering between 7A and 7B+
T - TCA - more mothership stuff, then attempted new white circuit (7c+). flashed to hold #25 (out of 28) so pleased.
W - nowt
T - TCA - circuit board reset had been completed - managed blue (supposedly 7a+ but actually around 7b+) in a few goes, and started working awesome new yellow (8b).
F - nowt
S - TCA, circuits working the yellow 8b, much better than expected progress - start to #23, then #21 to finish (#35) so overlapping halves, then added a link from #9 to #25 - pleased as included the hard move from #23 to #24 when a bit tired. Stopped for tea and cake, then managed start to #25! Well chuffed, might even go in one before it's reset. Then failed on slopey green 7A+ so not all roses, but I was pretty tired by then.
S - nowt, drive to peak in eve...

Weight: 69 ish all week, except tues, when I hit 68 Drunk too much beer since then though. No aero AGAIN 
Heel is still uncomfortable, but has been slowly improving this week, so I'm going to chance it and go up tonight for a couple of days, not much grit season left after all.

[csl]

Mon- Leeds wall - Good session on 4x4s. Managed 3.5 laps on a 6b+ on main wall.
Tues- 5km - Slow, running with a mate.
Wed- Malham - Couple of goes on seventh aardvark
Thur- Ill, slept all day.
Fri- Caley - Retroflashed forked lightening crack and horn
Sat- 5km Park Run - PB - 19.26 26th position.
Sun- Malham - Frustrating day, very busy first go on seventh it felt super easy until i tried a new sequence at the crux and fell, then did it to the top from last bolt 3 times in a row to get it wired. Couldn't get back on it for about 3 hours and failed two red points with silly mistakes. Next time.

[leeroy]

stg - more trad hps
ltg - hard sport in summer

m - tor session. few laps on weedkiller. tried the excellent candy kaned.
t - stoney, few dynos done. tried alacrity in cucklett delph (all dry btw) and didnt get anyhwere, rest time.
w - rested
t - cool day with steve. bad and the beautiful on millstone. finished by struggling up glass slipper at froggatt.
f - rested
s - my piano at nesscliffe. then failed on the boulders.
s - some nice laps on the eagle stone. beauty of an evening.

great week, feeling some momentum coming back on the trad front, hopefully a good neext week coming up.

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; start getting into routes when weather allows, still boulder when cold.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain, regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Gym 2x12mins arm cycling, 30mins(!) recumbent cycling, weights - great, best post-DVT gym session after crap previous week??
T - Outdoor sport @ Ardvorlich, 4 easy routes - fine, only very easy mileage but nice place and usefully delicate.
W - Nothing.
T - Nothing.
F - Nothing.
S - Nothing / pre-falling practice training on Drayton Manor's Apocalypse ride.
S - Nothing.

Voluntary non-week, partly beneficial to let my tweaked elbow rest. Monday was odd, after feeling like shit in general I had the best gym session I can remember. 20 mins recumbent cycling is usually as much as I can do, this time it felt effortless. Not any stronger on weights but had more energy for a full session of them. Climbing Tuesday was easy mileage by choice, just trying to work back up to climbing confidence.

This coming week I'm aiming to do more gym, more swimming/running, more stamina/mileage training.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Another week of training plans/momentum eaten by Family Stuff. Four weeks to after Easter Arco trip. Scientifically planned de-loading microcycle before hitting the PE hard for three weeks.

M: Dolomites approach training: 40 mins step-ups w/10kg rucksack
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen: had to call off planned evening routes session for family reasons: did quick morning session of PE circuits before work instead (yyfy for doing *something*)
T: Beastmaker
F: Long train ride to north Germany for wife's cousin's art exhibition
S: Wife's cousin's art exhbition
S: Hotel room yoga. Long train ride home.

[fried]

Nothing, back still stuck. Went to the quack who put me on anti-inflammatories, which don't seem to do much. Having an X-ray this week. I'll leave off the climbing until I get the results.

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: BM: repeaters, F.L. progs, theraband & eccentrics
T: 4m run & eccentrics
W: Bouldering at NCC
T: rest
F: 4m run
S: Bouldering at the Churnet, managed Martin's mono problem (7A+) and some easier stuff
S: working but managed a 6m run

Good to get the mono problem as its not my usual style but did manage to re-aggravate my ring finger, surprisingly not on the mono! Will take it easy this week, lots of icing and front two work on the BM.

[TobyD]

2012
Goals: sport: get on a few more 8bs, tick one if suitable candidate
trad: one or two safe-but-pumpy type E6s
bouldering: Fb7b+ or two

M- Torbryan stam session, mostly lapping thread flintstone
T- Pixies spoogy conditions but worked a couple of PE circuits out and a few worthwhile problems
W- bike; quick hour or so
T- Pixies 7 laps on 20 move PE circuit + steep locky problems
F- Brean; freezing but few cracks at a 7c+
S- Cuttings, drizzly; redpointed a 7b+
S- Winspit; onsighted 7 or 8 routes up to 7b

[shark]

11.3-5

M. Day. Deadhang and Encore session. Went well
T. Funeral
W. Round trip to Cardiff to do interviews
T. New car arrives!
F.
S. Malham. Oak wet. Several goes on Raindogs. Kept muffing the second clip till realised I had the gate facing the wrong way  Not climbing well. Drove to New Dungeon Ghyll. Backed new car into gate post  Gave talk at NUMC Dinner. Went down well which was a relief. Drank till 2am. Got up in middle of night and locked myself out of room.
S. Felt woozy. Full breakfast. Went to Trollers Gill for first time. Lovely spot. Stallioni there with a troupe of young fillies - something to do with an outdoor shoot for a swimwear calendar. Did a couple of ace 7a's. Drove home.

Hectic week and put on a couple of a lbs. Enjoyed hurtling around the Dales and the Lakes. Did fuck all training though. Need to get back in the saddle big time this week.     

[Fiend]

Stallioni there with a troupe of young fillies - something to do with an outdoor shoot for a swimwear calendar.

LOL. Extra syke for the F7as then??

[shark]

Stallioni there with a troupe of young fillies - something to do with an outdoor shoot for a swimwear calendar.

LOL. Extra syke for the F7as then??

Chick assistance is worth at least one extra grade.

Stallioni was crushing the 6a's.

[TobyD]

T. New car arrives!

Went to Trollers Gill for first time. Lovely spot. Stallioni there with a troupe of young fillies - something to do with an outdoor shoot for a swimwear calendar.

T: nice .... hoping to trim down the Sheffield - Malham record then? What are the wheels?

Stallioni: the CRB not caught up with him yet then?

[nai]

MT - still rough with cold
W - cliff plans were shafted so went Secret Garden instead, pretty productive session did Pistol Pinch, Beachball, the 6c groove & Nige's.
T - 5km run AM, half a max hangs session, eve.
F
S - 5.5km run AM, hour at Curbar PM, did everything in the quarry plus Thomas TTUE & variant. Had to stop to preserve skin for....
S - Cliff with 3t, a dab away from doing Underhand, must have done it to the final lunge 30 times now, really struggling to hold the swing.  Maybe fresher but not sure I'll have chance to get back this year now.

Beast is down again for painting (the room not the board) and my campus board is buried beneath a load of builders kit and supplies in the garage, summer goals feeling kind of stuffed already with no chance to train and most climbing days being used for paperwork or on build related stuff.  Font in 2 weeks tho, best work on my cheese and pastry tolerance.

[shark]

What are the wheels?

12 month old silver 530D M Sport touring 

 

[marky8b]

12/3/12
Chapel Session
Just ARC session knackered from end of last week
20,10's x 5 sets 6 reps each 180 moves per set (900 moves)
750 core (with weights)
1 set of circuit strength work 1 min on 1 min off, Press ups, pulls, shoulder press, up row, curls, hang.

14/3/12
Chapel Session (Morning session)
2 sets of 5rep 20,10's (300 moves)

14/3/12
Chapel Evening session
ANP & SSW
Bouldering different problems 50 moves
1 arm assist x 4 sets 20kg for 1 then 15 kg for 3 good 5secs
weighted pulls 20kg, x 4 sets x 3 reps (1x4x3x20 =240kg)
dead hang back 2 x 1 3 reps 4finger
weighted climb 4 sets x 12/14 moves
selection of core iso and movement (with weights)

15/3/12
Fly Cave session with woody, ended up being Power Endurance work of around 400moves, good to get on other peoples circuits...

18/3/12
Leics crag X!
6b+, 7b, half way up 7c+ then rained  (100+ moves)
Chapels session ARC 20, 10's (400 moves)
250 core (with weights)
Shoulder press and row super sets 20 each x 2

Just under 2500 moves this week, easy week coming up then Power Endurance starts...

[shark]

18/3/12
Leics crag X!
6b+, 7b, half way up 7c+ then rained 

Sounds like a slab

[Muenchener]

Leics crag X!
6b+, 7b, half way up 7c+ then rained 

You retrobolted The Brand?

Dug out & then retrobolted Huncote?

Developed the Pocketgate (Precambrian SSSI) headwall?

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Peak routes up to 7c+ including - Sardine, Toadside, Body Machine (from the deck), Toys for the Boys, The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag, Cry of Dispair, The Full Monty, Bored of the Lies. Be amazing to do all of these but even 1 of them at each grade would constitute a good season.

M: Rest
T: Routes @ Raven Tor - Opened the account with my first go on Sardine, worked out all the moves and got some nice links and sequences sorted but a split tip and lack of requsite (Tor Specific ) PE meant that a sucessful RP wasn't forthcoming. Good session tho and what a great route! AeroCap on BM in eve (4 x 100 moves @ 8mins rest).
W: Weights, Stretching, 1 arm work, AeroCap on BM (4 x 100 moves @ 8mins rest) and 4 mile road run - Knackered!
T: Max hangs and repeaters on BM.
F: Bouldering and AnCap @ The Works - CWIF circuit then crux of yellow 7b into 5 moves of swirly 7a+ into crux of brown 7c - De'bloody'stroyed - Tuesdays finger split started pissing blood again at the end and I'm pretty sure I was foaming at the mouth at some point....
S: Planned to go to the Tor but ended up looking after the kids (too many broken promises meant that I owed the missus big time), poor forecast and split tip left me not feeling too bad about it - Turned out it was mint (isn't it always when you don't go).. Went for a 5 mile fell run to work off nervous energy (read: pissedoffness). Didn't really work...
S: Nowt.

Felt like I worked hard this week, didn't climb as much as I'd planned but made up for it with fingerboard sessions. Great to get back on the string at the Tor.. Really reminded me why I do all this shizz and gave me a good idea where my current weaknesses lie. Great to setup AnCap circuit that starts next week (think it's gonna be hard). Worked out me summer ticklist and started running again which is good. The split tip was a bit of an arse as was not digging me heels in about Saturday but it's early in the season so I'm not too worried.. Finger's not a problem anymore and although it does still feel a bit tweaky I think it's just scar tissue as it never swells or gets any worse...

This week: Easy week so mainly AeroCap and running before starting 3 x AnCap focussed weeks...

:D

[wsmith]

Week 10 of plan.

M.
T. Warming up for aerocap in garage when foot slipped and suddenly loaded left arm. Bicep/elbow area went stiff and achey, didnt feel good. Tried to continue for a bit but gave up 
W. Core and some cardio. Tested how elbow was on a bar, still aching but not nearly as bad.
T. Elbow feeling much better. YYFY. Aerocap in garage - 3 sets of 20,10s + 1 set of 10 min continuity.
F. Locked out of the garage  so did a short campus session. 1-3-5-7 laddering, max throws and offset pullups.
S. 20 min run.
S. Boulder comp at Northampton. Ancap in garage - not great in terms of matching previous records on the circuit as was tired but good in terms of trying hard while pumped. 10 reps in 2 sets of 5. Rest still at 2 min between reps and 6 min between sets.

Only did 1 out of 3 aerocaps, not completely my fault though! Glad the elbow was nothing long term. Rest week this week and I feel like I need it.

[i_a_coops]

Tuesday:
10-11pm woeful power session. scraped arse up a V6 I've not managed before, failed to repeat any other V6s. Warmed down with 5 min traversing, got turbo flash pumped after about 10 moves.

Wednesday:
11-12am: steep board shut for cleaning, so lapped a pansy vert tech-y arete-y V6.
2-3pm: better power session. repeated all the V6s I couldn't do yesterday, made progress on a 'V7'  that is actually about V13. roughly 8 min on steep board as warm down.
7 - 9pm flailed on some easier problems, repeated 3 V6s, linked 2 of them together. set a 15 move power endurance problem on edges, did the moves, linked about half of it.

Left ring finger slightly unhappy due to a tweaky pocket, will sack off pulling hard for a bit and stick to OTT aerocap regime.

Thursday:
5 45- 6 30 pm: traversed boulder room there and back a few times, stepped off after about 10 min to sort out tape, got back on before fully recovered and stayed on for another 20 min. Spent a fair bit of time trying to shake out while open handing poor holds on vertical wall. did a nails steep V2 near the end, chuffed.

8 30 - 9 00pm: traversed bouldering wall there and back twice without stepping off. Made much harder by having to hang around a lot waiting for people, think I managed not to be too antisocial training stamina when it was busy! Feeling pretty fit, fingers felt fine, moving well cha'mone.

Friday - rest

Saturday: BUCS. Fingers felt good, climbed well, flashed 23 of 25 problems and fell off while matching the top hold of a 24th, twice. Would have come one point away from a podium place if I hadn't punted that.  Still got one more point than a certain 8b+ climber....

Sunday: pottering at the Roaches. Had a bit of a flail on a few 7As, have totally forgotten how to climb grit, and it was too warm. Essentially flashed Broken Wing, but it felt about 6B+ rather than 7A.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Prep for Joe's Valley Trip in 2 weeks
MTG - New Projects in Hatcher Pass - Aim to establish 100+ new problems up to 8A+ this summer - Drop Weight to 170lbs
LTG - Mandala, Diaphonous Sea

Monday - FB Max Hang/Run
Tuesday - Campus(Big Holds-Big Moves-not fingery)/Weights/ X-country Ski
Wednesday - FB Repeaters/Run Workout
Thursday - Backcountry Snowboarding
Friday - Backcountry Snowboarding
Saturday - Backcountry Snowboarding
Sunday - Boulder at Gym /Run

Too Much Drinking Thrus-Sat.  3 nights in a row.  Ouch.....