[petejh]

I'm planning my sport goals for the year ahead, I'm a geek and like to follow route pyrmaids for progression (it works for me). I've got the next two pyramids dialled except for just needing one more 7c+ to form the base of the second pyramid. So far I've got The Ashes, Pierrepoint, The Wall Within (Slate). Can anyone suggest one more inspiring 7c+ - I'm based in North Wales, going to be trying these ones probably by early-to-mid summer so I ruled Malham out.

[robertostallioni]

China Crisis or Man with a gun at Kilnsexy. Both good.

[leeroy]

although not ideal for you arch enemies in dovedale is the best 7c+ i've tried (quite limited sport experience). the bulge at kilnsey maybe, i know its 8a but people say soft touch (armchair - need an emoticon for this  )

[dpb]

Arch Enemies is a great route.

Wil-E Coyote is an excellent route and deserves way more attention then it gets.  One of the best of the grade for me.

[Serpico]

I think Pierrepointe original is quite unbalanced - the start and finishing cracks are hideous, however if you start up Last Dog and go right from the very last bolt beneath the final crack it's probably the best 7c I've done anywhere. Defcon used to be brilliant but unfortunately it's lost holds over the years and is quite a nasty 8a now.
Don't write off Malham - Mescalito is brilliant and L'Obsession is also superb often escapes the seepage, and of course Herbie (proper finish with the tufa) is a classic.
At kilnsey China Crisis is very good, but utterly desperate, The Jeckyl and Mr Nice to the right are both worth doing. Man With a Gun is very good, but knocking on the door of 8a, Dead Calm is a worthwhile new addition.
At the Tor Proud Whore is a massive outing, but the shared start can get congested, ditto for Body Machine which I believe is up to 7c+ with the direct start.
Vorsprung Durch technik at Yew Cogar is excellent and soft, but might still be wet early on, good for escaping the crowds at Malham and Kilnsey if dry though.
Bad Bad Boy at LPT is good and convenient for you, but the last move is a bitch.

[robertostallioni]

Vorsprung Durch technik at Yew Cogar is excellent and soft,

VV soft now. that razor-crimp-share mid trav has broken to a pad deep resting edge. 7C ish now.

The one to left is good if you're flexy.

[Fiend]

Sufferance at Dumby - brilliant "overhanging slab climbing". Shady too.

[petejh]

Some great suggestions there, thanks. Wil E and Arch Enemies look great. I've ticked nearly all of the good 7c's on north wales lime, and by the time I get around to this second lot of 7c+'s for the year (I go up once past 7c+ then drop back down gain after 8a+ and go up again on the way to 8b) I'll have ticked the good 7c+'s in n.wales too, hence looking for routes further away. Dumby might be pushing it though..   If it were a mixed route on the other hand...

[Andy F]

I'd add the 7c+'s at Chapel Head scar - Prime Evil and Unrighteous Doctors to the list. Also second Serps suggestions, L'Obsession is stunning, probably the best 7c+ at the Cove.

[Ally Smith]

Mescalito at Malham is excellent Pete, and being on the lefthand side gets the shade quicker than things like Herbie upstairs.

Some slightly more leftfield suggestions:
Eye of the Tiger, Dovedale.
Dharma, Dukes Quarry (not done it, but i'm well keen for a look see  ).

[Doylo]

I've ticked nearly all of the reallygood 7c's on north wales lime,

 

[TobyD]

At kilnsey China Crisis is very good, but utterly desperate, The Jeckyl and Mr Nice to the right are both worth doing. Man With a Gun is very good, but knocking on the door of 8a, Dead Calm is a worthwhile new addition.

  I find China Crisis the utter living end.

the next two are pretty soft; but MWAG is commonly found harder than Cold Steal (which is given 8a) or those; I'd say MWAG is by far the best, if it is quality you are after (and also the most often dry!)

I thought Dead Calm was given 8a? It is probably easier than at least the two aformentioned, however.

How about Dreamtime at Kilnsey? Not often done (not by me either) but supposedly awesome, and a really good line....

[Bonjoy]

I thought Dreamtime was great, not sure why it's not more popular. The clips aren't that bad, especially if you can use your knees.
Does The Bulge get 7c+ these days? Seemed easier than MWAG to me and brilliant obviously.
L'Obsession is my favourite of the Malham 7c+s and very quick to dry. Have never rated Mescallito, just seems like an inferior variant on New Dawn with a stupid arbitrary finish.

The best one down Cheedale is Toys For the Boys on Nettle Buttress.
Proud Whore as already mentioned is superb.
Last but not least and modesty aside, Spear of Odin in Thor's Cave is actually the best 7c+ in the Peak   



Ally Smith – Dharma, are you having a geeeraff? A 30ft runout above ancient pegs is stretching the definition of sport climbing somewhat! It’s also very filthy at the mo. That said I might clean it up and replace the pegs this spring if it’s a dry one.

[marky8b]

Defcon 3 Gordale
Ground zero lorry Park
Squealer Direct lorry park
Vision of loveliness Cheedale

[Stu Littlefair]

Is Spear of Odin the one that starts just right of Thormen's Moth? If so, I second the recommendation. Ditto Toys for the Boys - a fantastic route. I have a soft-spot for Minos at Two-Tier as well.

At Malham I want to put in a pitch for Thriller. I know it finishes in the middle of nowhere but the climbing through the roof is really, really good.

Just Revenge/Avenged at Anstey's is brilliant, but a bit of a trek for you, and not sure how hard it is since a big hold was pulled off the crux.

[Bonjoy]

Is Spear of Odin the one that starts just right of Thormen's Moth?

That's the one

[petejh]

Ally Smith – Dharma, are you having a geeeraff? A 30ft runout above ancient pegs is stretching the definition of sport climbing somewhat! It’s also very filthy at the mo. That said I might clean it up and replace the pegs this spring if it’s a dry one.

 
Thanks Ally. No, really.
Is that your idea of payback for some of the winter belayathons you've endured? 


This is great.. so many cool lines to go and try. I may never finish the nw lime guidebook, in fact I might leave and never return to Wales.

[Andy F]

MWAG is commonly found harder than Cold Steal (which is given 8a) or those; I'd say MWAG is by far the best, if it is quality you are after (and also the most often dry!)

I thought Dead Calm was given 8a? It is probably easier than at least the two aformentioned, however.

How about Dreamtime at Kilnsey? Not often done (not by me either) but supposedly awesome, and a really good line....

It's years since I did either MWAG or Cold Steal but the latter did feel much harder. It could be that holds have fallen off MWAG in the last 15 or so years... Not done Dreamtime but it does look awesome. Heard stories of 'interesting clips'.

[Marky]

If you can get to Scotland both Admission and Fated Path on Tunnel wall in Glencoe are two of the best 7c+'s around and are guaranteed to put a smile on anyones face 

[TobyD]

Just Revenge/Avenged at Anstey's is brilliant, but a bit of a trek for you, and not sure how hard it is since a big hold was pulled off the crux.

  (It's still 7c+, I am reliably informed)

If big treks are on the cards to the SW, Mustard Custard at Long Quarry Point is great, although given 7c by the FA, it may sneak 7c+ really, especially since it has lost a few grips as well. The main thing is that it is absolutley amazing, and quite unique, imagine crossing slate with some technical limestone....

[north_country_boy]

L'obsession
Ashes
Vogue
Herbie
Vorsprung...
Toys for the Boys
Man with a gun

would be my favourites....not done Dreamtime but heard great things

[Adam Lincoln]

If you can get to Scotland both Admission and Fated Path on Tunnel wall in Glencoe are two of the best 7c+'s around and are guaranteed to put a smile on anyones face 

Hopefully next weekend!

[north_country_boy]

If you can get to Scotland both Admission and Fated Path on Tunnel wall in Glencoe are two of the best 7c+'s around and are guaranteed to put a smile on anyones face 

Hopefully next weekend!

I'd be keen to know if its dry if you do get up there.....prepare for it to feel very cold too if there is any breeze at all.