[MatthewL]

Hey!

I think I have fairly poor technique (especially footwork and body positioning) and want to improve, better yet I want to be a ballerina when going up that wall. Can anyone recommend some videos that feature climbers with superb technique that don't just thug their way through the climbs.

I climb with several very good climbers but find it hard to imitate their body position and placements even they repeat things for me.

thanks!

[chris05]

Like this? 

[Johnny Brown]

This guy also dances on the rock:

[Jaspersharpe]

This should help with topping out skills:

[tommytwotone]

Move along ladies and gentlemen...nothing to see here:

[Krank]

UKB- the worlds most helpfull resource

[tomtom]

Move along ladies and gentlemen...nothing to see here:

That doesnt help with technique! It just informs MatthewL not to be short

Some good hip swiveling action there 3T... I'd like to have  acrack at that problem some time.. is it summer/spring venue?
T

[lagerstarfish]

ignore these idiots

here is what you need



and any video that features me, obviously

maybe not this one

[psychomansam]

You may need slow motion...

Also,



One a more serious note, go on youtube and search for some "bouldering world cup finals". Would give you something comparative to what you're doing indoors.

And for outdoor technique, just watch this repeatedly

[cheque]

There are many in the Ondrawad thread.

[GCW]

From 1:50.  Showpony alert.

[slackline]

ignore these idiots

here is what you need

And for jamming technique get your hands on a copy of Dawes' brilliant Best Forgotten Art (no longer available for purchase from his site and quickly searching didn't throw up any clips).

[S Smith]

This is pretty good, especially the bit in the middle from "Monsieur Fontainebleau Himself"



And this



and if you can get your hands on it (doesn't seem to be on youtube or vimeo), the footage of Dave Graham on Coup de Grace from Dosage 3 or 4 for some steep ground technique.

In fact anything with Dave Graham really!

[fried]

and any video that features me, obviously

I can honestly say I've learn more about technique from your videos than any amount of 'professional' efforts... That's the last nice thing i'm saying on here ever.

[Duma]

I liked JBs slab at the start of that vid of El Mocho's latest thing that was floating around here somewhere

[Dexter]

try climbing with girls a lot and watch their style (not their asses) as girls generally tend to climb with much better technique

[iwasmexican]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19691.0/topicseen.html

[clm]

Etc
Truly awesome technique.

[Eddies]

[Zods Beard]

About time we had some real technique.



Trust in Malc.

[Clart]

Steve Mc is no slouch in the technique department:



Occasionally sports science students come on here asking for project ideas, here's one; ask someone to climb a familiar route/ long boulder prob in a style they perceive to be good technique versus climbing it fast versus campusing it then look at the energy expenditure (slap an ecg on them or stick a moon board in an indirect calorimetry chamber). I keep meaning to do this myself using my polar heart rate monitor and a circuit down the local wall.

The idea is from a comment that Dave Graham makes on AutoRoute about the US versus European climbing style (slapping your way up versus being slick). I suppose Ondra is the best exaple of combining these two styles.   

[lagerstarfish]

and any video that features me, obviously

I can honestly say I've learn more about technique from your videos than any amount of 'professional' efforts... That's the last nice thing i'm saying on here ever.

just made my day

[Jaspersharpe]

try climbing with girls a lot and watch their style (not their asses) as girls generally tend to climb with much better technique

This is a massive generalisation and a bit of an old wives tale from my experience. Maybe it's just because I've seen a lot of very good climbers...... but I don't think so.

[Johnny Brown]

It is a massive generalisation, bit I think there is a kernel of truth to it. Women tend to have lower power-to-weight ratios and centres of gravity compared to men. These things push you in a less powerful, more technical direction. I've always put my technique down to my massive arse anyway.

[cofe]

I've always put my technique down to my massive arse anyway.

"ass so fat you can see it from the front"

[Bonjoy]

Will try to get round to posting up footage of Katy trying Angel’s Share (unfortunately I’d left the crag when she did it). Immaculate slab (and falling) technique (except the bit she falls off obviously).

[Jaspersharpe]

It is a massive generalisation, bit I think there is a kernel of truth to it. Women tend to have lower power-to-weight ratios and centres of gravity compared to men. These things push you in a less powerful, more technical direction.

True. I suppose I just get tired of the cliche and can think of lots of examples of women with shocking technique (and vice versa). Just because their physicality pushes someone in a certain direction it doesn't necessarily follow that they will be any good at it.

Yes, watching / climbing with a woman with immaculate climbing technique could be beneficial for someone wants to improve but the same is true regardless of gender.

Anyway, I'm boring myself. Fat arse.

[Serpico]

try climbing with girls a lot and watch their style (not their asses) as girls generally tend to climb with much better technique

I think that's one of the biggest clichés in climbing - the idea that because women are generally weaker they have to use technique instead of strength to get up things. The reality is that because they're weaker they just don't climb as hard. I've not seen any trend of women exhibiting better technique, if any thing I'd say that in one respect they're slightly worse as they tend to be less dynamic.

[Serpico]

try climbing with girls a lot and watch their style (not their asses) as girls generally tend to climb with much better technique

Blah, blah, blah...

I hadn't read J&J's posts when I posted.

[Bonjoy]

I’ve seen plenty of crimp obsessed front-wheeling female climbers dragging their feet behind them like abandoned parrots. I've seen plenty with great technique.

[Johnny Brown]

Yes, watching / climbing with a woman with immaculate climbing technique could be beneficial for someone wants to improve

I'm not sure watching immaculate technique is that useful other than for inspiration. However I can imagine that, at a given grade, guys who climb with guys might benefit from climbing with bords now and again. The whole power cult that tends to develop amongst wall-going lads does not breed good technique.

I think that's one of the biggest clichés in climbing... because they're weaker they just don't climb as hard

Well you could argue that is because 'hard climbing' is defined as what men are good at/ there are less of them/ wasn't Lynn's ascent of El Cap the best ever? Ned and Michele both climb harder than Katy, but they took a lot longer to get up Angel's Share.
QED: GIRLS ARE BETTER AT SLABS.

[Jaspersharpe]

I’ve seen plenty of crimp obsessed front-wheeling female climbers dragging their feet behind them like abandoned parrots. I've seen plenty with great technique.

 
I've seen plenty of female climbers who don't have fat arses too. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?

Yes, watching / climbing with a woman with immaculate climbing technique could be beneficial for someone wants to improve

I'm not sure watching immaculate technique is that useful other than for inspiration.

Yes that's why I qualified the statement with "/climbing with" as this definitely can be helpful.

However I can imagine that, at a given grade, guys who climb with guys might benefit from climbing with bords someone weaker but who is a better climber now and again. The whole power cult that tends to develop amongst wall-going lads does not breed good technique.

Yes I agree.

[Oldmanmatt]

Yes, watching / climbing with a woman with immaculate climbing technique could be beneficial for someone wants to improve

Well you could argue that is because 'hard climbing' is defined as what men are good at/ there are less of them/ wasn't Lynn's ascent of El Cap the best ever? Ned and Michele both climb harder than Katy, but they took a lot longer to get up Angel's Share.
QED: GIRLS ARE BETTER AT SLABS.

Pop down to the Quay in Exeter... (or Ansteys any fair morning)

And just watch Cherry for a couple of minutes.

Then go home, wipe the tear from your eye and just give up.

[Doylo]

Dense defo takes it, as graceful as two lard arses making love on a water bed

[Eddies]

The Buxton Stickman 


Patrick Edlinger:
Opera Vertical part 3

P-Witty:

[dave]

The Buxton Stickman 

awesome, he paths it.

[ferret]

the real technical masters

[Fiend]

Flexibility, strength, and grit awareness combined into one:

[SA Chris]

Etc
Truly awesome technique.

Obsure enough reference for puntering, funny enough for wadding. Hmmmmmm

[lmarenzi]

Totally off topic 

Seems to me that birds have better technique because they are, on average, smaller lighter and have more FLEXIBILITY and BODY AWARENESS than blokes, which is why they have naturally better technique, which you might like to define as how hard you can climb vs. how strong you are.

The reason why it is commonly assumed that blokes climb harder than birds is because blokes can climb higher grades. The problem here is that for whatever reason about 99.8 % of all hard routes seem to have been put up by blokes.

On routes put up by birds its a much more even playing field. Only two come to mind at all here, Hill's Nose and Rodden's Meltdown (in Yosemite but unrepeated?). Be interesting to hear of any other really cutting edge FAs over the years?

Funnily enough, neither one of these lines was actually conceived of by the bird in question, and are actually unfinished blokes projects.

Once BWGCRH start conceiving and putting up routes with holds for really small fingers and really small feet and requiring fine balance and circus performer flexibility and give them hight grades blokes will get burnt off really badly, regardless of how many one armers they can do.

 

PS I don' think its so bad to look at their arses either ...