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Warm up for fingerboard session
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Warm up for fingerboard session
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shurt
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Warm up for fingerboard session
March 12, 2012, 04:43:51 pm
I am scared that I will injure myself as am about to get a fingerboard. Everything I read says to warm up by doing some climbing before you get on one but at home (surprisingly) I don't have a climbing wall.
Are there any alternatives?
Pull ups on the big holds? Press ups? Running around the garden?
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Nibile
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Part Animal Part Machine
#1 Re: Warm up for fingerboard session
March 12, 2012, 04:47:29 pm
as for climbing, I use a theraband for shoulders, triceps, biceps, and so on.
then good holds and then again the specific holds I'm going to train, progressively.
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Probes
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#2 Re: Warm up for fingerboard session
March 12, 2012, 05:17:13 pm
Have a read of this, it has some warm up ideas in it..
http://www.pdf-archive.com/2011/08/04/crusher-holds-handout-3-5mb/
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tomtom
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#3 Re: Warm up for fingerboard session
March 12, 2012, 05:20:19 pm
hang on the big holds first - or place a chair a couple of ft back from the board and do some of the exercises (on the larger holds) with feet on the chair...
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shark
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#4 Re: Warm up for fingerboard session
March 12, 2012, 11:03:39 pm
My standard warm-up is a set of 5 pull-ups jumping off the ground on large then medium then small edges followed by a wrist complex with dumbells and some light finger rolls then a a set of easier encores. There is a lot of individual variation on how long and what it takes to warm-up though it takes less long if you trained/climbed the day before. Experiment and find out what works best for you.
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IS2
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#5 Re: Warm up for fingerboard session
March 14, 2012, 07:38:41 pm
These work well for me and get rid of minor tweaks in fingers.
http://www.climbonline.co.uk/news.htm
news item re Spiky.
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Pebblespanker
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#6 Re: Warm up for fingerboard session
March 15, 2012, 11:24:46 am
5 pull ups, 30 press ups, 5 dead hangs, green or blue theraband stretches for biceps, triceps and sets for shulders, 5 more dead hangs on edges or slopes depnding on what the session is going to focus on: 2-3 mins between sets
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Duncan Disorderly
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Stealth Punter
#7 Re: Warm up for fingerboard session
March 15, 2012, 01:04:13 pm
Tommy showed me a great way to warm up for fingerboard sessions that I find works everytime.
Start with a few pressups (say 20) then hold a doorframe size edge (or mid crimps on a board) with both hands and just do 3 sets of 20 bounces from the floor while holding them (limiting the amount of weight on the holds at first). As you get progressively warmer you can begin extending the length of time you're on the holds (i.e. hanging for a few seconds before dropping back down) but I find that doing these (so 3x20 with a minute or 2 off in between), making a brew then doing them again gets my fingers and body nicely warm.
Looks a bit silly tho
:D
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