[MatthewL]

Hey!

I think I have fairly poor technique (especially footwork and body positioning) and want to improve, better yet I want to be a ballerina when going up that wall. Can anyone recommend some videos that feature climbers with superb technique that don't just thug their way through the climbs.

I climb with several very good climbers but find it hard to imitate their body position and placements even they repeat things for me.

thanks!

[chris05]

Like this? 

[Johnny Brown]

This guy also dances on the rock:

[Jaspersharpe]

This should help with topping out skills:

[tommytwotone]

Move along ladies and gentlemen...nothing to see here:

[Krank]

UKB- the worlds most helpfull resource

[tomtom]

Move along ladies and gentlemen...nothing to see here:

That doesnt help with technique! It just informs MatthewL not to be short

Some good hip swiveling action there 3T... I'd like to have  acrack at that problem some time.. is it summer/spring venue?
T

[lagerstarfish]

ignore these idiots

here is what you need



and any video that features me, obviously

maybe not this one

[psychomansam]

You may need slow motion...

Also,



One a more serious note, go on youtube and search for some "bouldering world cup finals". Would give you something comparative to what you're doing indoors.

And for outdoor technique, just watch this repeatedly

[cheque]

There are many in the Ondrawad thread.

[GCW]

From 1:50.  Showpony alert.

[slackline]

ignore these idiots

here is what you need

And for jamming technique get your hands on a copy of Dawes' brilliant Best Forgotten Art (no longer available for purchase from his site and quickly searching didn't throw up any clips).

[S Smith]

This is pretty good, especially the bit in the middle from "Monsieur Fontainebleau Himself"



And this



and if you can get your hands on it (doesn't seem to be on youtube or vimeo), the footage of Dave Graham on Coup de Grace from Dosage 3 or 4 for some steep ground technique.

In fact anything with Dave Graham really!

[fried]

and any video that features me, obviously

I can honestly say I've learn more about technique from your videos than any amount of 'professional' efforts... That's the last nice thing i'm saying on here ever.

[Duma]

I liked JBs slab at the start of that vid of El Mocho's latest thing that was floating around here somewhere

[Dexter]

try climbing with girls a lot and watch their style (not their asses) as girls generally tend to climb with much better technique

[iwasmexican]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19691.0/topicseen.html

[clm]

Etc
Truly awesome technique.

[Eddies]

[Zods Beard]

About time we had some real technique.



Trust in Malc.

[Clart]

Steve Mc is no slouch in the technique department:



Occasionally sports science students come on here asking for project ideas, here's one; ask someone to climb a familiar route/ long boulder prob in a style they perceive to be good technique versus climbing it fast versus campusing it then look at the energy expenditure (slap an ecg on them or stick a moon board in an indirect calorimetry chamber). I keep meaning to do this myself using my polar heart rate monitor and a circuit down the local wall.

The idea is from a comment that Dave Graham makes on AutoRoute about the US versus European climbing style (slapping your way up versus being slick). I suppose Ondra is the best exaple of combining these two styles.   

[lagerstarfish]

and any video that features me, obviously

I can honestly say I've learn more about technique from your videos than any amount of 'professional' efforts... That's the last nice thing i'm saying on here ever.

just made my day

[Jaspersharpe]

try climbing with girls a lot and watch their style (not their asses) as girls generally tend to climb with much better technique

This is a massive generalisation and a bit of an old wives tale from my experience. Maybe it's just because I've seen a lot of very good climbers...... but I don't think so.

[Johnny Brown]

It is a massive generalisation, bit I think there is a kernel of truth to it. Women tend to have lower power-to-weight ratios and centres of gravity compared to men. These things push you in a less powerful, more technical direction. I've always put my technique down to my massive arse anyway.

[cofe]

I've always put my technique down to my massive arse anyway.

"ass so fat you can see it from the front"