[gremlin]

I didn't start climbing untill I was 41 (I'm 45 this year  ) and I'd be really interested in the thoughts and opinions of other climbers who started quite late in life?

In particular, training methods (developing finger strength) and climbing achievements. Is it still possible to reach a high standard without having climbed from being a kid?

No old fart jokes please! 

[jonsse]

Depends what you call a high standard. I only started when I was 27, now pushing 30 i've climbed 7C and can do 7B in a sesh. I don't train, just go climbing once or twice a week, haven't got a "beastmaker".
Helps if you don't have a job sitting on your arse all day. i'm a builder/joiner that also makes classical guitars when someone wants one (pretty fingery shit!)
Reckon i've got 8A in me before i'm resigned to easy trad.
I'd say the key is don't cock about clipping if you want to be good at bouldering.
also i'm blessed being 6' and 10.5 stone... can't put weight on.

[robertostallioni]

Met one of you older types in Erto a couple of years back. He (an Italian, suprisingly enough) started at 42, RP'ed 8b at 50 and was mixing it up with us at 52. He may be dead now though. 
He'd been sporty all his life though.*

*All based on long conversations held in Italsprench as he didn't speak the queens english.

[tomtom]

I climbed from 21-25/6 (E2/3 was my pinnacle..) then pretty much did nothing from 1997/8 until 2006/7 - It felt like starting again! I'm OK around the low 7's... working 7B and upwards... I too hope theres an 8A in me some day, but not quite sure!! Enjoying getting there though... (I'm 42 btw..)
TT

[tesla]

If you're reasonably fit, have the motivation and facilities to train regularly, and are willing to put in the effort, then there's no reason you can't become a competent boulderer later in life. One thing to be mindful of is that it generally takes longer to recover from injuries the older you get, climbing or otherwise (at least that's the way it works for me!), so being realistic in your expectations, listening to your body and being careful not to over train is important I think.

Slight thread hijack: I was actually wondering if climbing when younger, then taking a prolonged break before starting again actually made you more susceptible to injury in some way...or perhaps it's just starting again with unrealistic expectations that leads to injury? I climbed quite a bit from 11-18 peaking at around 7C+ mostly injury free, save for the occasional bout of very mild tendonitis. I then had a big gap until about 25 where I didn't really climb, and spent the next few years trying to get fit again but having regular shoulder / finger problems, before sinking back into ill-health, obesity and laziness. After yet another break, I'm back again, but pretty fit this time, 50lbs lighter and - touch wood - injury free for the past 2 years. I've worked my way back to climbing 7A. I'm 37 now.

[tomtom]

Slight thread hijack: I was actually wondering if climbing when younger, then taking a prolonged break before starting again actually made you more susceptible to injury in some way...or perhaps it's just starting again with unrealistic expectations that leads to injury? I climbed quite a bit from 11-18 peaking at around 7C+ mostly injury free, save for the occasional bout of very mild tendonitis. I then had a big gap until about 25 where I didn't really climb, and spent the next few years trying to get fit again but having regular shoulder / finger problems, before sinking back into ill-health, obesity and laziness. After yet another break, I'm back again, but pretty fit this time, 50lbs lighter and - touch wood - injury free for the past 2 years. I've worked my way back to climbing 7A. I'm 37 now.

I had all sorts of elbow tendonitis problems from overtraining on pull ups when I was younger.. since I've re-started I've had very few problems. I've avoided campus things like the plague and only had a little tennis elbow (spotted it coming) and the odd twangy A2.. which have all healed up after a couple of months.. Mind you, that may be to do with having a job - so not having the time to train/climb as much as I would have then,.... I'm not 9 1/2 stone any more though!

Related - and similarly thread hijacking, I stopped playing sport pretty much at 17 - apart from cycling (so no running, footy etc..) until I was c.29-30 and I've never had any knee, shin splint or leg related injuries. All my 5 a side playing ageing contemporaries who seem to have never had a break turn up with a variety of braces, supports (and excuses!).... 

[fried]

I restarted climbing at 38ish, now 40 and a bit. It definitely takes longer to recover. I'd love to climb 4 or 5 times a week  but I just get more and more injured.

I just hope there's a 7A in me somewhere!

[Oldmanmatt]

Ha! After yesterday in Cresciano, I felt like starting this thread.
You read my mind!

I've not had many injury problems, but I've been on the wall all year and not the rock.

The tender finger skin of yesterday, I can understand.

The cramp, I can't, or the lack of power.

Warm up and burn out?

What's that about?

[Ti_pin_man]

If it helps I've started about 9/10 weeks ago whilst waiting for my next contract.  I've managed 2/3 sessions a week and managed a 6a at the weekend.  I think it was a low rate font.  But still impressed myself. 

I am 42, 43 in a month.  Been mountain biking for 20 odd years so keep myself active.

My next contract starts soon so the climbing will reduce.

I'm pretty happy with my progress even though I suspect my progress will slow but I like the combination of mental/physical challenge. 

I think I could get better and age isn't going to hinder me.  I half think it's all in the mind and once you think you're old it will hit ya!  Keep climbing!  Keep going!

[shark]

If it helps I've started about 9/10 weeks ago whilst waiting for my next contract.  I've managed 2/3 sessions a week and managed a 6a at the weekend.  I think it was a low rate font.  But still impressed myself. 

More impressively posting within 10 weeks on UKB - that's what I call progress !

[Ti_pin_man]

  

Google'd for technique clues and landed here!

[BB]

UKB is the Internet equivalent of taking your shirt off. Gains you a least a grade.

[Oldmanmatt]

Ha! After yesterday in Cresciano, I felt like starting this thread.
You read my mind!

I've not had many injury problems, but I've been on the wall all year and not the rock.

The tender finger skin of yesterday, I can understand.

The cramp, I can't, or the lack of power.

Warm up and burn out?

What's that about?

That was quite incoherent...

I guess you shouldn't post while on the shuttle from Gatwick south to the long term...

A more reasoned response to G's question and the injury question would be:

I'm 41.

I started climbing at 8.

I went off to do " Mountains"  from '94 to '00 (ish) along with surfing, diving etc the pure climbing took a back seat.

Spent '00 to '08 in the Mid-East mainly diving and canyon running /Deserty type stuff.

From my daughters birth in '05, work and family got in the way...

I put on 10kg...

When No. one child started walking, we began to get out again, number 2 came along in '08 at the time we returned to the UK.

Looking for something to do with Number 1, we started bouldering in spring '09 and regular visits to the wall...

I'm back down to 77kg, 183cm tall and strong as buggery.

I'm manking all over the forum because I couldn't tick a 7C+ in a single, hour long; session and that having tried, I couldn't then manage a tricky sit start on a 7B+... With a bunch of lads, the oldest of which was 28 and had been bouldering full time for over a year. Having never even seen the venue before, let alone the problem!

Thank you for the perspective, chaps.

We are all able.

I know a guy, who is going to be 77 this year, has Limes disease and leads 7a, red points 7b...

[Oldmanmatt]

Actually, I was doing a lot of " mountains" from about '89 on, just mixed up with the sport and Trad...

[tregiffian]

I don`t do entirely relevant but google Admiral K.M. Lawder, he won`t mind. He had an A40 van `cos he didn`t like to grovel about in the standard grey minivan of the era.

[Ti_pin_man]

UKB is the Internet equivalent of taking your shirt off. Gains you a least a grade.

Puts shirt back on -- thought it was drafty in here. 

[gremlin]

I don`t do entirely relevant but google Admiral K.M. Lawder, he won`t mind. He had an A40 van `cos he didn`t like to grovel about in the standard grey minivan of the era.

Have we got a robot here?

Anyway, back on topic. Sounds like there's hope for me yet. I'm fit and reasonably strong but it's the finger strength that takes time I guess and the older one is the longer it will take to develop. I think I'm doing all the right things; training regularly (bouldering and leading), strength training in the gym and a bit of supplementary finger board stuff. So, if I stay the course and dont get injured, I may just be able to get to 7a and beyond? Who knows!

[Jaspersharpe]

To answer the long lay off / injury susceptibility question I had about 12 years off climbing from age 20 to 32.

Got back into it pretty quickly as luckily I hadn't put any weight on and my fingers were still ok strength wise. However, after rapidly progressing to 7C I started picking up niggly injuries here and there and as people have mentioned, it's the recovery time that's the problem. That coupled with the fact that each time you have a layoff it's harder (or at least as hard) to get back to where you were make things psychologically difficult.

When I first started back I rode a massive wave of psyche and quick gains but in the last couple of years injuries (generally not even climbing related) have meant I've had weeks off at a time which have developed into months because of a lack of motivation. It's hard enough finding the time to train when you have work (I pretty much work 2 jobs at the moment), family commitments etc but finding the time and motivation to come back from square one again and again can get really hard.

I know people who have continued to climb while I wasn't and most of them get injured just as much if not more. Perhaps they find it easier to come back as it's more of a natural thing. I suppose I'm trying to say that it's all in the mind.

Anyhow, after the best part of a year of the above I'm finally injury free, full of psyche and looking forward to enjoying my climbing again. Fingers crossed.

gremlin, there's no reason why you can't get to that level. Take it gradually and as long as you're enjoying it and don't get injured too often you'll continue to progress naturally.

[gremlin]

Touch wood, (touches wood) I haven't been injured yet. Maybe I'm not trying hard enough? 

[SA Chris]

gremlin, there's no reason why you can't get to that level. Take it gradually and as long as you're enjoying it and don't get injured too often you'll continue to progress naturally.

What he said. Then find something that is a known soft touch, plays to your strong points, get all the beta you can, spend some time on it and job's a good un.

[Pebblespanker]

Hi Gremlin

For what it's worth I'm 50 this year, climbed a lot between 80 and 89/90 peaking around E3 on grit and limestone, then dropped out of climbing for some time - lots of partying, beer, socialising etc. - became a fat knacker (nothing changes does it Shark!) beer monster; the odd bouldering session if I was in an area with rock and I remembered my boots and I basically did nowt until in my 40's and around 2006 when I discovered a mate at work was going to Notts wall - so got involved and started again. What a depressing education that was ... I may remember being able to boulder around soft tech 6b in the past but my body certainly wasn't able now; 4c at the wall was desperate and being a couple of stone overweight did NOT help. Probably explains the finger injuries/tweaks too ... mind thinks yes, I try to claw my way up and the body says feck off have an injury

However dieting and starting a more structured training plan in 2009 helped with the injuries and steady progress was made. One thing I learnt was recovery is slower and injuries easier to achieve at my advanced age lol. I have a Metolius board in Notts and a Beasty in Scotland ( I split my time between the two locations) and am loving the Beast! Progress has been steady and upwards and the boards have helped in conjunction with regular wall visits and being careful about when to push myself - always be sure you are not tired, carrying a tweak etc or you will pay the price

Currently I manage V4/5 regularly and am aiming for V6/7A this year if all goes well. Have also started sport again and have managed to get up to 6b quickly depite lack of mileage indoors etc - again the aim is to reach 7a or as close as I can manage this year weather and time permitting One thing I am proud of is that I now boulder as hard or harder than I did in my 20's, certainly in terms of recorded problems - goes to show that age should not be seen as a barrier or an excuse for failure. If I can be on a rising performance curve then so can anyone lol

Don't let age be a barrier - look at Steve Haston as an example of what can be done post 50! Remember if you struggle the problem is not hard you just need to train harder so MTFU! Be realistic and do as suggested when going for a new grade, find ones that suit your strengths and dont just try the ones your buddies are playing on. Once you've ticked that new grade you can look to consolidate at the grade afterwards etc.

Good luck, H

[tomtom]

gremlin, there's no reason why you can't get to that level. Take it gradually and as long as you're enjoying it and don't get injured too often you'll continue to progress naturally.

What he said. Then find something that is a known soft touch, plays to your strong points, get all the beta you can, spend some time on it and job's a good un.

+1

And.. wait for a cold day, when you're light (and have a couple of diuretic expresso's) have good skin and are feeling strong.

[Fiend]

Exciting topic. Big up to the all the old cunts. I feel fucking old when I look at all the kids climbing today. Got seriously worried this year with health issues and weight gain and a looming sense of inescapable degeneration as my body struggles to cope. But just so syked for climbing that I'm keeping fighting and it seems to be working. Reading about you OAPs keeping ticking and keeping syked is pretty damn inspiring 

[SA Chris]

Did my first bouldering comp in years recently. Up here veterans are 45 and older, so i was competing against whippersnappers 18 and up. Held my own on the technical vertical stuff and slopers, but got spanked on the steeper army stuff by kids half my weight and on things involving climbing upside down with feet by your hands.

[tomtom]

Did my first bouldering comp in years recently. Up here veterans are 45 and older, so i was competing against whippersnappers 18 and up. Held my own on the technical vertical stuff and slopers, but got spanked on the steeper army stuff by kids half my weight and on things involving climbing upside down with feet by your hands.

Last years summer bouldering league thingy in Leeds had the seniors category as 40 and over... I didnt enter - but probably will this year - might squeeze a top 3 and win a pair of boots/T shirt etc..