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[Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c] (Read 6955 times)

Fj

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[Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
February 26, 2012, 09:50:44 pm
Another addition to the growing wood circuit.
Descending from the main track as for glass slipper, its the big block on the right.
Climbed on the front, there are plenty of options for cleaned holds, but the FA trended up the crack to the obviously pebble and good edge then up the rib, then scary rock over to finish on the slab.
Possibly E1/2 although the tree holds the matts on the hill, so its quite safe.
FA Dan Jackson.

Drew

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#1 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
February 26, 2012, 09:57:00 pm
N.b. the above photo is neither Dan, or indeed a succesful ascent. It is in fact a massive wuss chickening out again.

BAndy

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#2 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 08, 2012, 10:48:04 pm
It may just be me but that looks distinctly like Two Pebble Slab which is in Froggatt to Black Rocks at E1 5c.

Fj

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#3 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 08, 2012, 11:11:16 pm
I dont have that book so it may well be, but i cleaned a lot of grass/moss off the top and none of the holds looked like they'd be cleaned before.

there were three pebbles, one which is key and one which i snapped off, so if it is that route the names now more appropriate.

can anyone confirm?

BAndy

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#4 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 12:55:48 am
The top of Two Pebble Slab was definetely dirty a big pile of grass and moss when we did it and the rest of it was pretty green - I don't think it gets many ascents and stays dirty what with being in the woods. However it is a great little climb. I seem to recognise the set of holds you mentioned, plus we had a wander round the place when we did it and I didn't come across anything that wasn't in the BMC guide. Sorry to ruin your first ascent!

There is a harder and scarier looking line up the slab to the left that I'd like to go back to - I think it was around V6/E6 6c in the guide.

grimer

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#5 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 09:40:55 am
I think all that area might be in line for a lot of tree felling work in the near future. That'd be great. There's loads of really nice rock that's always green because of the tree cover.

Johnny Brown

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#6 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 11:50:56 am
Quote
There is a harder and scarier looking line up the slab to the left that I'd like to go back to - I think it was around V6/E6 6c in the guide.

E6 is over egging it a bit, but it is decent, on permanent loan from Caley.

Drew

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#7 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 11:56:29 am
I think all that area might be in line for a lot of tree felling work in the near future. That'd be great. There's loads of really nice rock that's always green because of the tree cover.

The tree that's at the bottom of the buttress is the only thing making it feel safe. It keeps the pads in place, and gives the spotters something to brace themselves against.

Andy B

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#8 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 03:19:14 pm
can anyone confirm?

I think Andy's right.

I thought it looked familiar, but didn't want to piss on anyones chips, if I wasn't certain.

Johnny Brown

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#9 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 03:28:58 pm
Not got the guides to hand, but definitely did both lines a good five years back under Iain Farrar's direction.

Bonjoy

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#10 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 03:34:37 pm
These green woodland probs get filthy again really quick. Certainly good news if the trees get thinned out soon!

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#11 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 04:24:50 pm
The tree that's at the bottom of the buttress is the only thing making it feel safe. It keeps the pads in place, and gives the spotters something to brace themselves against.

Surely E1 5c for a padless solo should be really safe anyway....safer than a typical E2 5c....  :doubt: :doubt: :doubt:

Drew

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#12 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 05:33:13 pm
It's the fact that you feel like you'll end up rolling right the way down the hill onto the road, getting crushed by the passing motorists. Or was I just being a massive chicken?

Fj

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#13 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 09:40:11 pm
I thought it looked familiar, but didn't want to piss on anyones chips, if I wasn't certain.

no chips pissed on at all. I'd heard the rumour some of the wood may be felled so went for a walk and spotted it.
hopefully it'll get more traffic now its clean.

this may sound like sour grapes and i can promise you its not, but i'd be surprised if that much lichen had grown, even in 5 years. none of the holds showed any signs of previous cleaning.

I'll pop to Outside and have a look in the book tomorrow to check.

Jim

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#14 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 09:47:38 pm
this may sound like sour grapes and i can promise you its not, but i'd be surprised if that much lichen had grown, even in 5 years. none of the holds showed any signs of previous cleaning.
I think you'll be suprised at how quickly things can get in that condition with no traffic. I've been suprised in the past by a couple of problems (unfortunately I can't remember which ones or at what venues tho)

Johnny Brown

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#15 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 09:55:36 pm
As I remember it wasn't at all clean back then either.

r-man

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#16 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 09, 2012, 10:20:19 pm
Talking of Froggatt greenery, anyone done much on the Sunset boulders since we cleaned them a few years ago? This was my favourite, really nice 7Aish slab. Tricky project still to do - the line to the left, starting right hand in the pocket and finishing straight up.


http://peakbouldering.info/problems/2249
« Last Edit: March 09, 2012, 10:31:09 pm by r-man »

Andy B

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#17 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 10, 2012, 01:39:46 am
I've done that slab, and various other things that you put up round there, and up at the Renegade area. Some very good problems. Even then the slab needed a bit of a clean, and it wasn't too long after you'd done it.

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#18 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 10, 2012, 01:51:43 am
That slab looks great! I assume from the way this thread has been going that it'll need serious cleaning by now?

Bonjoy

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#19 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 10, 2012, 09:42:20 am
It's amazing how utterly untouched probs can look after only a few years of neglect. Check out my route 'Ere Come Fudgie! at Wyming Brook - it had a big fern growing out of the crux pocket last time I looked.
The only way to be sure something has not been done is if it still has big fragile crystals or similar on the footholds which would have been broken if stood on.

r-man

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#20 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 10, 2012, 11:37:43 am
I've done that slab, and various other things that you put up round there, and up at the Renegade area. Some very good problems. Even then the slab needed a bit of a clean, and it wasn't too long after you'd done it.

I remember you saying, but you're the only person I know of. The Renegade stuff gets regular attention, judging by pb.info and ukc, though I always thought the woods boulders were much better.

From what I remember, there are a few lines still to do. They aren't king lines but they might offer some nice moves to anyone prepared to do a bit of cleaning.
-The left hand slab line looks really good, much harder and has some height (Dreamboat skips the last section by rocking out to the niche). Actually, doing a left hand finish to Dreamboat would be good in itself, though getting there from the harder start would be even better.
-Direct sitstart to Big Surprise, without the arete. Dawid was dynoing but didn't stick it, which usually means it's 7C+ or harder. Also, doing the standard version without the foothold in the crack felt like an obvious natural eliminate - maybe 7B+, I got close but I think I abandoned it due to skin issues.
-We tried a sitter to the left of Emerald Aisle. Desperate crimpy stuff, not super appealing, but hard.
-Traverse into Wolfenstein from White Lycan (obvious crimp line leading to arete in this photo http://peakbouldering.info/photos/133.jpg?1292795389 ) - there's also a ramp leading left from Wolfenstein but lots of cleaning needed for that one.

Perhaps some tree felling around this area would help. These boulders face into the sun, so would stay clean if they were exposed.

That slab looks great! I assume from the way this thread has been going that it'll need serious cleaning by now?

I'd imagine you'd be able to clean it with a brush on a stick - you could reach all the holds from the bottom or from stood in the top niche. Only a few of the holds are in the green streak. Just make sure it hasn't rained the day before. Good place to go on windy days.
« Last Edit: March 10, 2012, 11:47:35 am by r-man »

Fj

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#21 Re: [Peak][Froggatt][Gripper Rib][6c]
March 10, 2012, 06:12:45 pm
just read the guide description and agree Dan climbed 9 pebble slab, although now more like 8 pebble slab.  :read:
with the clean probably still 6c/7a - V6ish
I submit to the collective knowledge of ukb and doth my cap to those who climbed it whilst green.  :bow:

if nothing else hopefully this thread will raise the profile of the woods stuff a bit more and get some more traffic to keep it clean

 

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