[rodma]

a couple of undeniable similarities there   

Firstly the bar bends just as much when I do deadlifts (but that's because I use a cheap york set of weights)

Secondly my pre-lift routine is identical.

Unfortunately, I'm not an actual hero like Benedikt 

[mark s]

Deadlifts are great.won't do them every week as takes days to recover.

[slackline]

"The other possible benefit of doing weights is that it might help toughen you up to withstand longer sessions at the wall or multiple redpoint attempts in the same session. "

This is why gymnasts do weights, so they can train the more technical aspects for longer.

I see no evidence of the first point 

the second is not true in my opinion, but I'd be interested to here where you get this from. It is certainly contrary to everything I have seen/heard

Surely if my maximum is 2 sets of 10 pullups in one hour, and I'm not got the opportunity to climb very much, say, then I could go to the wall and have a few attempts on a route with lots of deep locks and then I'd be spannered. Now if I can suddenly do 30 sets of 10 pullups in an hour, as a result of doing weights and bar exercises most days, then I'll surely manage a longer session? Which in turn means more time gaining experience of climbing movement when I do actually make it to a wall. ...

I should really have added 'if you can't make it to a climbing wall/crag quite as often as you'd like...

But pull-ups only work larger muscles in your arms/shoulders.

You'd likely find that your forearms get knackered before your arms/shoulders fatigue is perhaps the point.

[rodma]

Deadlifts are great.won't do them every week as takes days to recover.

Like most training, you become accustomed to it, training once a fortnight isn't likely to be very beneficial.

where's the DOMS emoticon?

[Big Dave]

Deadlifts all the way (180kg is my max without wrist straps ) Stimulates every muscle in the body and as said the feeling of raw power when doing them heavy is great.

Stick to low reps as they're hard on the cns and get form right before moving up the weight. A good target weight is 2x bodyweight.

[i_a_coops]

But pull-ups only work larger muscles in your arms/shoulders.

You'd likely find that your forearms get knackered before your arms/shoulders fatigue is perhaps the point.

Fair.

=> Fingerboard too!

[gremlin]

I like the idea of the gymnastic bodyweight exercises but it's not easy getting hold of a pommel horse (or fitting) a set of gymnastic rings!

Looks like the best bet is to do a variety of strength exercises (low reps, high weight) including squats.

[mark s]

Deadlifts are great.won't do them every week as takes days to recover.

Like most training, you become accustomed to it, training once a fortnight isn't likely to be very beneficial.

where's the DOMS emoticon?

I go the gym five days. Week,so not as if I'm slacking

[rodma]

Deadlifts are great.won't do them every week as takes days to recover.

Like most training, you become accustomed to it, training once a fortnight isn't likely to be very beneficial.

where's the DOMS emoticon?

I go the gym five days. Week,so not as if I'm slacking

Weird, why so long to recover??

[gremlin]

 I go the gym five days. Week,so not as if I'm slacking
[/quote]

How do you find the time (and energy) to climb?

[robertostallioni]

I like the idea of the gymnastic bodyweight exercises but it's not easy getting hold of a pommel horse (or fitting) a set of gymnastic rings!

Looks like the best bet is to do a variety of strength exercises (low reps, high weight) including squats.

there are years of gymastic pommel training before a pommel horse is touched. Stretching so you can actually make the requires shapes and learning the movements/specific muscle building firstly on the floor itself, and then with feet in a bucket doing circles.

some good walls have rings and much can be done off the bat, but again, there is much time to be put into stretching and strengthening for shapes/transitions also.

[mark s]

Deadlifts are great.won't do them every week as takes days to recover.

Like most training, you become accustomed to it, training once a fortnight isn't likely to be very beneficial.

where's the DOMS emoticon?

I go the gym five days. Week,so not as if I'm slacking

Weird, why so long to recover??

i vary my back workouts alot.this monday will include deadlifts.deadlifts are along with squats the heaviest weights you will lift.its a big strain on your body.its an excersise i like to do as heavy as possible,until failure.

[mark s]

 I go the gym five days. Week,so not as if I'm slacking

How do you find the time (and energy) to climb?
[/quote]

its very rare i get out now,a baby put an end to that.plus i really like going the gym now.it costs more than i thought though,all the food and supplements cost more than a new pair of boots

[rodma]

Deadlifts are great.won't do them every week as takes days to recover.

Like most training, you become accustomed to it, training once a fortnight isn't likely to be very beneficial.

where's the DOMS emoticon?

I go the gym five days. Week,so not as if I'm slacking

Weird, why so long to recover??

i vary my back workouts alot.this monday will include deadlifts.deadlifts are along with squats the heaviest weights you will lift.its a big strain on your body.its an excersise i like to do as heavy as possible,until failure.

I also like to go until failure (or until tunnel vision sets in), but don't lift that heavy, only about 1.5 bodyweight. When i used to lift more my lower back curved to compensate for the weakness in my core, which was not beneficial. If i can get my core strong enough I'll be upping the weight.

That makes sense that you need more rest if you are training hard down the gymn, it would mess you up for your other exercises I guess. I don't mind feeling broken when going out climbing or going to the wall, probably because it's more difficult to benchmark when climbing, so like deadlifting more frequently. I only try to rest up before a trip these days.

[douglas]

regarding the dead lifts do you find any mass gain from bigger legs is compensated for by being stronger in the upper body? or do you need finger strength to spare? do the deadlifts even give you big legs...?

[rodma]

I have sparrow legs and always have had, but my body doesn't seem to build muscle very easily.

I'm sure others on here will have found that weights have had the opposite effect on them.

[douglas]

okay, cheers Rodma.

[mark s]

regarding the dead lifts do you find any mass gain from bigger legs is compensated for by being stronger in the upper body? or do you need finger strength to spare? do the deadlifts even give you big legs...?

putting mass on takes along time,you are not going to get tom platz thighs from doing a few deadlifts.the benefits on your back will outweigh anything else.