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[Yorkshire] [Ilkley] [varoius 6c to 7c] (Read 1921 times)

Adi Gill

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[Yorkshire] [Ilkley] [varoius 6c to 7c]
February 19, 2012, 01:24:33 pm
Olicana Buttress has recently undergone a makeover with some excellent additions. Moving left to right from Olicana Arete are the following (shots to follow at some point)

Octavia Minor 6c
Sit start with both feet on the pointed block and campus up the fat arete, good but seldom dry.
Adi Gill 3/2/12

Agricola 6c
SS on the hanging crack in the corner and depart right to jugs on  the arete from a painful jam.
Adi Gill 30/1/12

R.E 7c
SS on flat hold under the roof, take a two finger pocket and clamp up the arete.
Neil Sugden 8/2/12

Easy Crew 5
Breach the roof from the juggy hole

Spartacus 6c
Span from the spike undercut with feet avoiding the low plinth to reach the face and gain the ledge with interest.
Jamie Meeks 28/11/11

Constantine 6c
From deep in the grassy pit cross the roof on sharp undercuts moving right onto the ledge once at the lip.
Adi Gill 30/1/12

Maximus Aurelius 6c+
As Constantine to the lip then track leftwards to the arete with a whole manner of heelhooks guppies and crimps
Adi Gill 30/1/12

The Brute 7b+
SS. Out to the lefthand ancient chip and pursue a leftwards line over the roof on micro crimps and layaways
Neil Sudgen 13/1/12

Boudica 7a+
SS. Out to the twin chips and gain the ledge via two painful crimps.
Neil Sugden 19/11/11

The cracked arête immediately right is the finish of Chariots of Fire. Shots to follow...


Adi Gill

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#1 Re: [Yorkshire] [Ilkley] [varoius 6c to 7c]
February 19, 2012, 02:04:26 pm


Boudica 7a+ Olicana Buttress, Ilkley (Adi Gill), good gurn again candidate



The Brute 7b+  Olicana Buttress Ilkley (Neil Sugden)

suggy

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#2 Re: [Yorkshire] [Ilkley] [varoius 6c to 7c]
February 19, 2012, 04:44:44 pm
This is a good little area and well worth a visit. Other new problems at Ilkley include:

J.B. 7b+
Standing start to the arete below the route 'In a Pickle'. Starts with L hand on the arete, R hand on a good crimpy sidepull. Involves a couple of tricky slaps to gain the obvious good hold. Traverse off from the break above unless you want to finish up an E6.

Short arete 7a
Sitting start to a leaning arete in the first group of boulders you come across left of the path in rocky valley. 

T.C. 7b+
Sitting start to an overhanging arete in the boulder group left of the path in rocky valley (just below Rodney Mullen). Really cool moves with foot locks, toe hooks, crimps, and slopers. 

I'll try to get vids/pics of the new problems.   




 

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