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[Peak][Cratcliffe area and Moorside Rocks][various 6c+-7c] (Read 3870 times)

Bonjoy

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Quick round up of stuff added recently on South Peak grit for folk who don’t use pb.info. Full info including a few easier grade things not mentioned below on peakbouldering.info. Excuse the mixed bag of low res phone pics, vid stills and poor quality photography

Cratcliffe
Pleasant Street 7a – On the base of the crag below the Bower. A l-r lip trav with a tricky cutloose. Spotter advisable. Fairly rain/snow proof and quick drying



Pinchers’ Wall 7a – A pull on and slap job on a short recessed wall right of the arete of the main bit of Suicide Wall. Another clean and quick drying prob.


Invasion of the Cider Women Direct 7a – A new direct start to the Andy Barker E4 6c (it has a bomber rock 3 if anyone wants to lead it). The original route, which needed a good clean, stepped in high off a boulder on the left missing some great climbing up a curved staircase of a ramp. The last move to the break is probably still the crux




Maid Marian’s Stones (see Froggatt guide, tiny edge south of Robin Hood’s Stride)

Angular Merkin 6c+ – The only decent problem at this tiny venue IMO, but close enough to the road and to RHS to be worth a look. On block at right end of the rocks, climb the arete/prow from a low start matched on sloper/crimp. 6c from standing


Filthy Crag Q (see peakbouldering.info)

Roller Bowler Currant 7b – On the main prow block. R-l lip trav/prow starting on far right jug gaining a jug/ramp and then finishing behind the tree as per Big Girl’s Brow. Low ledge footholds are out.


Wind Shark 7c – Down and right of the prow block on an aretey boulder sat on two slabby blocks. Climb the arete from a sit start on the good undercut, feet on the rh slab


Moorside Rocks
Batter Patter 6c+ - Just right of Superbloc’s spacious patio is a thin rounded crack. Climb the crack from a sit start to finish on a the ledge at a big undercut on the left.





NB. Take the grades with more than the usual pinch of salt. I’m due an operation for Dupuytren’s Contracture on both hands at the end of the month and the way they are at the moment makes judging grades more than usually difficult. As you can see I follow the principle that if in doubt give it 7a…
« Last Edit: February 09, 2012, 04:11:18 pm by Bonjoy »

Fiend

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Nice one Boy. How many pages is the project hoard down to now??

Bonjoy

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This big:

It always grows faster than it shrinks

Scouse D

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Pincher's wall is a very good problem. Nice one Lovejoy

Falling Down

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 Angular Merkin :smirk:

Bonjoy

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Cheers Dave. Reckon it'll go from sitting for some light, tall, strong beast.

Did a new 7b+ at Filthy Q on Sunday, will post up video when I think of a name. The new one extends Roller Bowler Currant all the way along the lip to finish up Big Girl’s Brow. Tried the link section all sorts of different ways before figuring the easiest way is to cutloose then generate a huge swing to kick into a distant toe-hook on the other side of the prow, and then continue in a Low Rider type fashion. Best problem on the block I think.

Andy B

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This big:

It always grows faster than it shrinks

Sorry, I can't see it. Can you just make it a bit bigger please.

I agree about Pinchers Wall, it's an excellent move. In fact all the new stuff there looks quality. Even the easier pockety thing over to the right of Pinchers wall, that you haven't mentioned on here, is a good problem.

Bonjoy

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Tah. I upgraded Pinchers to 7a+ on pb.info on certain ginger beast's insistence, but who knows.
That pocketed wall is so blatantly obvious that it felt too cheeky to put it under my name. Must have been done before. Refreshingly straightforward yarding for grit.

Sorry, I can't see it. Can you just make it a bit bigger please.

I'll lend you my magnifying glass.

Bonjoy

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I've called the new 7b+ Sweet Chariot (you have to swing low). Here's a vid:

 

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