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get bloggin’
29 January 2012, 7:50 pm

here we go…

 

Source: ben bransby

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training, more training and… a rock climb
30 January 2012, 10:54 am

The last few months have seen very little rock climbing. Through a mixture of poor weather, work and other commitments the majority of my climbing has been indoors. For once this hasn’t bothered me to much, my motivation has been to try and keep fit over this winter for some of my objectives in the summer but after a glorious weekend a bit back (when I was in London working at the outdoor show) it all became to much and I skived off some work and went out.

First off I went and played around on some things at Brook Side at Froggatt. I hadn’t climbed here before so it was nice ferreting around stuff. Did Old King Cascade which was quite nice climbing in a lovely position – the waterfall and stream were all semi frozen. Bumped into John Welford up at Les Grand Doigts and after various falls and scrapes John got up it but I couldn’t. Went over to The Screaming Dream a classic Mark Leach route from the ’80s. John had made the 4th ascent of this a few weeks earlier and gave me all his beta – I was keen for a go.

Went back again the next day (more skiving off work) with Ben P and set up a top rope. The moves came together pretty quick – Welford had been talking 8A for the sequence (Welford 8A gulp) but I managed to find a little bit of heel and got it almost straight away on the lead (I say ‘lead’ both me and John opted for pre placed and clipped cams rather than pre placed and clipped wires as the wire slot is getting pretty worn so it is essentially a boulder problem)

Got a little video from a return visit with Dave ‘the editor’, my daughter (May age 5 1/2) did a fair bit of the filming so be kind. Filmed on my GoPro so it isn’t as small as it looks, honest.



Source: ben bransby

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another little video
31 January 2012, 4:13 pm

Finally found and put together some footage I had from doing a ground-up ascent of Superbloc. This was either last winter or the one before!

I did this the same year I did Careless Torque and this took a lot more effort – I fell off the undercut move near the top 16 times in a row before I had the go you see in the film (did have all this on film but can’t find it at the moment) It doesn’t have quite the same purity of line as Careless, it is also (probably, ask Nigel) a bit lower but the climbing is absolutely superb.

I first tried this a fair few years ago before the landing was improved, I only had a couple of goes that day, there was a big team trying it; Gaz, Andy Earl, Ben Moon and others. No one was making much impression on the hard move except Ben, he was doing it most goes but was lacking the balls to commit to the top – or at least that’s how it looked! I was really impressed with Ben’s climbing that day, it’s a pretty subtle move up the arete and he had the body position just right to hit the little pocket almost statically, we were all slapping wildly with little chance of holding it.

The year I came back and did it the landing had been built out a bit (we had 15 pads that first day) and as soon as I had good conditions I started to feel pretty close – I was getting through the hard move most sessions. The two sessions before I did it I got past this crux move every go but fell of just after every go – a little slap up with the left to a good hold. No one I spoke to who had done it (or fallen off the top) had found this move tricky. I think I just got convinced I was doing it wrong or was just gonna fall off every time. The day I did it I was on my own (had Klem but he was no help) and I just decided to satch it up – I didn’t really bother warming up – yes what you see in the video was it – but I felt conditions were good and I had nothing to hold me back.

As there was no young child to film and Klem doesn’t have opposing thumbs the angles not that exciting – it is all off tripod.



Source: ben bransby

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snow, snow and A B C D (airway, breathing, circulation…)
5 February 2012, 7:50 pm

We have had, were it not for last years mammoth dump, a decent amount of snow here in the Peak. Snow is always exciting and probably more so when you have kids. Unfortunately, I spent most of the weekend lying in the snow pretending to be unconscious whilst stuck on a two day wilderness first aid course in Hope. I knew I would be missing out on sledging and skiing with May but the text from Adam suggesting a quick Back Tor hit was almost too much for me. A lot of people complain first aid courses can be a bit dull (this one was pretty good though) so to make things more exciting for my fellow attendees I decided to faint half way through a particularly gruesome bit (actually just talking about insulin pens) to give them some real life experience. I came around safely in the recovery position covered in an emergency blanket. It was only the instructor who had done anything as everyone else thought I was getting down to do some push-ups (in the snow in the middle of a first aid course??). I did manage to pass and only the one faint.

On the climbing front had a nice couple of days last week. Went to two crags I had never been to before: Running Hill Pits – quality but icy, needed ice axes to top out Scoop de Grace and Anston – nice venue but it hurt my fingers. Also fitted in a trip to eatswood with Benpy for some unfinished business from last year. When Caff was over in the peak we headed here one (very very) cold day and tried Lip of Fools but not only was it hard but we were also absolutely baltic and had no success. This time things felt a lot better and I got to pretty much the last move first go – wasn’t really expecting such a big move at the end! Dispatched it next go. Ben had a good couple of goes but didn’t really have the psyche for a full on go. Rubbish little video here all from gopro strapped to the tree with the side runner in:

Moved on to Stanage for some nice pottering only to rush off to pick May from school just when BP needed a decent spot. Will have to get him out again as he has held my ropes plenty in the last couple of weeks.

Source: ben bransby

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speed solo, back tor, winter
9 February 2012, 9:39 am

After the frustration of missing most of the snow at the weekend I found some time to nip out mid week. Prob fair to say conditions ‘on the face’ were not as good as they could have been but it was still nice to use the tools.

Decided to man up and go for the solo on the mighty North Face of:



Ended up getting over excited and thinking I was Ueli Steck and going for the speed solo, little video of the ascent below. Obviously I am taking the piss.



Source: ben bransby

[Fiend]

LOL, gonna be following this one, I like the variety of peak-based antics you get up to Ben.

But two videos without Klem?? 

[El Mocho]

though it best not to take klem to lip of fools crag as it is banned is it not? he might have got shot or something. also, as much fur as he has, he is not a snow dogg - his paws ball-up massively and he can't walk and I was expecting a little more snow up there.

will make up for it and try to do a vid just on klem...

[Fiend]

A video with Klem belaying would be good.

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growl…
12 February 2012, 4:34 pm

Had a day’s work for DMM at the weekend attending the GROWL (Great Rockover Winter League) final. Here’s me working hard:



And a few hours later, still giving DMM good value for money:



Thanks to Chris Fox for the pics

Source: ben bransby

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slideshow images
12 February 2012, 4:37 pm

Cobbled together a few photos into a short video. Thanks to Adam for, as usual, providing most of the shots.



Source: ben bransby

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big sunday
20 February 2012, 1:44 pm

An excitable 9 Toez was up from London doing his roped access qualification at access techniques this week and was around at the weekend for some climbing. I was assured it was going to be ‘big Sunday’ at Robin Hoods Stride and when the weather was so nice on the morning we all headed out to meet up. May had a party to go to in the afternoon but was keen for a bit of climbing first. Unfortunately she has got some blisters from her ski boots (lots of skiing over half term holidays at the ski slope in Shef and the snow dome in Manch) so couldn’t handle the pain of her rock boots – I think her feet have grown a bit, so she ended up clumping around in her snow boots.

A big crew turned up and it was really nice cruising around enjoying the banter. May and Kath headed off to the party but I had a bit longer and joined the rest of the crew at the Green Boulder and did and then watched the antics on Zaff’s Mantel – a bit too much indoor climbing I think Harry!

Ended up getting involved in a project up the scoop to the left. Ned ‘the champ’ did some good work with his brush and after about an hour we had cobbled together some kind of sequence for the start.

robin hoods scoop photo adam long The sequence was pretty palm dependent! After a go each where we were both stood up in the scoop it was looking like it was going to go down, decided it was time to show the champ whats what and dispatched (rather shakily) next go:

robin hoods scoop top out photo adam long Champ then walked up it after. Probably in the 7B+ region and don’t have a name yet (you will probably be glad to hear)

Did a bit more over by Grizzly Arete including a novel outwards facing ascent of Mock Beggars Wall E4 from Adam.

Made another little vid from the day – don’t get too excited as most of it is from the gopro strapped to a tree or on the end of a long pole!

There is also another little vid from the day (with a bit more of the project on it) from

Post

 

 

 

 

Source: ben bransby

[Johnny Brown]

Probably in the 7B+ region

Yeah Ben. Now I know why I grew this beard... chinny RECK ON!

[Adam Lincoln]

big sunday
20 February 2012, 1:44 pm
An excitable 9 Toez was up from London doing his roped access qualification at access techniques this week

Is there anyone who doesn't work in rope access nowadays! (obviously there is!)

[Bonjoy]

Probably in the 7B+ region

What's it called, Bert Raccoon/Tutankhamun?

[Johnny Brown]

Is there anyone who doesn't work in rope access nowadays! (obviously there is!)

Just Ben I think.

Seriously though folks, its a growth industry. Get involved!   

What's it called, Bert Raccoon/Tutankhamun?

 

[Adam Lincoln]

Is there anyone who doesn't work in rope access nowadays! (obviously there is!)

Just Ben I think.

Seriously though folks, its a growth industry. Get involved!   

Can you suggest any decent training centres in the Sheffield area then Adam?   

[Fiend]

Nice "whos who of UKB" video there. Plus obligatory Klem!

Can't view the facebook video, could you get it mirrored please as I'd like to see more of the project...

[El Mocho]

Nice "whos who of UKB" video there. Plus obligatory Klem!

Can't view the facebook video, could you get it mirrored please as I'd like to see more of the project...

just added the Klem/may bit to keep y'all happy!

think I have updated the facebook link so it should work now (or just go on fb and search for nye...)

[Fiend]

http://www.facebook.com/search/results.php?q=nye&init=quick&tas=0.08960573127166221#!/profile.php?id=798060690

Part way down there. Nice footage of the new thing and Johnny Showpunter.

[Jaspersharpe]

Could someone put it somewhere where those of us not on Farsebook can watch it?

That new problem looks really cool.

[Fiend]

Get with the 20th century blondie!

[Jaspersharpe]

Already with the 21st girlfriend. I skipped Facebook and went straight for Twitter. Where's my hoverboard?!

[Fiend]

Well go "tweet" Nye Cooper and ask for the video, then 

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the cave that keeps on giving
1 March 2012, 11:56 am

Had a few good days climbing and training since the day at Robin Hoods. After doing so much on the plastic in the last few months I wanted to get out on the rock and see what – if any – improvements had been made. Went and had a couple of quick sessions down at Dog’s Dinner Buttress in Cheedale trying Smittons excellent Pedegree Chum. I had been on this a bit two summers ago and had been struggling on the bigger links but straight off this time it was feeling a lot closer. Things are still a bit wet on it so the full ascent will have to wait (may also have to wait for me to get a little fitter) but I definitely left feeling positive.

Although I had just had three hard days climbing and training I ended up heading over to Llandudno yesterday for a cave session. I had some unfinished business from last year – Petes link of Lou into Bonnie (F8c+?) but when we got there it was just a bit too wet for a proper go so switched to trying to trying Rock Atrocity into Bonnie. After a quick play on both to refresh the sequences decided to give it a blast and managed to spanner it off the last move – been a bit of a punter and forgotten to dry the last right hand hold. Escaped into Dyers van to refuel and rest for an hour or so and then, a little tireder than the first go, managed to get back to the last move. Even after drying the hold was still a little damp and with visions of another slam down starting to enter my head decided to get on with it and things just stuck. Don’t really know the grade but a text from Pete: “p.s, got to be F8c” and “split grades are whack!” probably means I should up it from the F8b+/c, Font 8A+/B and stick with F8c.

Got some video of it all:



Source: ben bransby

[Doylo]

If Dorsal Stream is 8c+ then surely so is this? I dont get how this can be anywhere near 8b+ when you think of 8b+ routes in Britain. Pumpy font 7c into hard 8a. Something like walking mussel is a 2 move font 7c with not much else to worry about. Mecca etc.. The climbing on this is so much harder and sustained  effort!