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[Peak][Chattsworth][various] (Read 3062 times)

Andy B

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[Peak][Chattsworth][various]
February 06, 2012, 08:18:01 pm
Some problems at Chattsworth. I did all but two of these early last year. They are mostly lowballs, but combined with Desperot, Jumpers Start, Shy Boy and the Dobb Edge problems, the crag should now provide a pleasant circuit.

The first area is based around Spiral Buttress.

Shop Steward 6c
The sit start to the right side of the arête into Spiral Route seems a bit more powerful than it should be.

I Smell Winter 7a
Sit Start the left side of the Spiral Route arête, with satisfying slappy moves, finishing up to the left.

The Miltitant 7c+
The prow left again, on small crimps and pinches to a nice juggy finishing romp.

I Guess I Planted 6b+
Hidden amongst boulders up around to the left of the Spiral Buttress problems is a nice sharp arête. Climb it a cheval on guppys from a sit start on the big square flatty.

 
To reach the next problems walk up the gully to the left of Emerald Buttress.

Flying Picket 6c
At the top of the gully is a low boulder with a little prow at one end. Climb the prow from a sit start on a left hand guppy.

United We Stand 5
climb the blunt double arêtes just left of Flying Picket.

Boss Breaker 4
Climb the sharper arête to the left of United We Stand.

Strike Action 7a
Just round the corner to the left from Boss Breaker is a slightly leaning wall. Climb up the centre from a sit start with hands in the low break (no low ledge). A tricky first move gives way to steadier climbing on nice edges and breaks.

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#1 Re: [Peak][Chattsworth][various]
February 06, 2012, 08:28:56 pm
Well developed sir. Always nice to have alternative circuits. Pics please.

Andy B

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#2 Re: [Peak][Chattsworth][various]
February 06, 2012, 08:46:14 pm
Bear with me. I'm struggling to embed, as usual.

Andy B

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#3 Re: [Peak][Chattsworth][various]
February 06, 2012, 09:07:45 pm
Here are a few pictures. Sorry about the shit quality:

I Guess I Planted





Strike Action





The Militant



I Smell Winter and Shop Steward



United We Stand



Flying Picket





Boss Breaker


Fiend

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#4 Re: [Peak][Chattsworth][various]
February 06, 2012, 09:54:50 pm
I'd climb those.

Bonjoy

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#5 Re: [Peak][Chattsworth][various]
February 07, 2012, 08:43:57 am
Good work Andy, especially on Militant, I know that's been tried by at least one beast before. Wondered what you'd been up to when I drove past you in Baslow the other day (sorry I didn't stop, car was stacked with pads and I was already 20 mins late home!).

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#6 Re: [Peak][Chattsworth][various]
February 07, 2012, 09:03:22 am
Of course Pat King and I explored this area thoroughly during the winters of 98/99 and 99/00. Despite travelling to the crag by taxi, I don't believe we found any of these. Good effort, definitely turning into a good little circuit round here. Not much in the bouldering guide, but other stuff worth doing is Jumpers at the very start of the crag, and the stuff on Jerk buttress, which is not 13m high as the BMC guide would have you believe.

cofe

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#7 Re: [Peak][Chattsworth][various]
February 07, 2012, 09:10:04 am
nice work.

Andy B

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#8 Re: [Peak][Chattsworth][various]
February 07, 2012, 10:55:25 am
Cheers guys. Takes all the grades with a good pinch of salt, as always.

Scouse D

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#9 Re: [Peak][Chattsworth][various]
February 07, 2012, 09:51:32 pm
I like the look of those Andy and expect the full tour when you return from font

Andy B

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#10 Re: [Peak][Chattsworth][various]
February 07, 2012, 10:34:19 pm
Nice one Scouse.

Here's the photo that should be in the broken link above.

I Smell Winter and Shop Steward:


 

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