[tomtom]

Evenin' all...
S/LTG 7C, and 50 7's by end of 2012 (19/50)

M: Some weights for my shoulders...
T: Rockcity, Hull. Enjoyed myself. Surprised myself. Still £8.50 though..
W: Rest/Curry/Beer
T: Work, more shoulder exercises with weights (feeling great!)
F: Shall I shant I weather day.. so I opted for "Lunchtime Brew and Boulder" at Logport wall (only £4.. hint hint Rockcity..)
S: Bitter sweet afternoon at the Beaglestone.. nearly got Where Beagles Dare, and 'toher 7B around the corner felt do-able. Good to meet Shark and Family for first time (hello) and Lagers & Dolly. Lagers Ronin testing sadly drew the day to a close..
(more here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11029.msg347711.html#msg347711 )
Su: Aches.. more sholder exercises...

Weather this week looks good.. shame terms started...

[shark]

Weight 11-4-6

M. Eve. Cabin. Bit jaded but did OK on sections of Oak circuit
T.
W.
T. Eve. Foundry 20th at Broadie. Good gathering met Lagers for first time 
F. PM. Edge with Duncan. Tried onsighting did a 7a, failed on a 7a+ and then did a 7a+. Would have tried another but had to leave early.
S. PM. Eagle Stone with Boys to meet Dolly and Lagers and met Tomtom for first time    It was surrounded by a moat but we got on 3 of the problems. Unfortunately Lagers twatted his ankle.  max enduro-cross-training 95kg x 1km Felt knackered when I got back
S. AM. Wave. Bouldered for a couple of hours

Easy week, so 3 hard weeks now - last block of programme. Got a rough idea of the sessions required majoring fingers, finger endurance, circuits and a smidgeon of campussing. Got myself weighed at University on Monday - still waiting on results but think it will be about 8% body fat.  If it turns out like last couple of years then Malham will be dry at start of March. If not I'll sneak a trip abroad.

[Oldmanmatt]

STG Super trooper
LTG font 8A, 8a without top roping first (though now I have failed to on-sight 2 indoor 7a's I seem to be going backwards on this one).

M- Quay. First good session in a long while. Reset in the bouldering rooms, failed all the new V6+'s, close on a couple. Campus on the training board. Ten minutes on the board (5 on 2 off, 5 on). I use the red jugs on the system board, I think it equates to around 1-4, on a campus board. Anyone else tried this at the quay?

T- nothing

W- Quay. Still close but no cigar... As Monday, except only two sets on the campus due to shoulder.

Th- Nothing.

Fri- Quay. Bad sesh. Too many kids (4,all with me), bad shoulder, bad mood, bad...
(how did I end up running a climbing club? I don't remember agreeing to it, funny what saying "yes" to "can little Jimmy/Jane come as well?" leads to).

Sat- Uh, walk on the beach? Throwing 20kg of daughter in the air? Giving endless " Wizzies"? Gotta count for something, aching this morning.

Sun- 2hrs of Core, shoulders and chest (no shoulder problems, despite dips (foot off) with a 6kg weight belt).
Pull ups, front three plus 6kg.
Hope to get 30min on the finger board when kids are in bed... Look! A flying pig!

[csl]

Monday- Day - Almscliff, Got Dolphin Belly Slap and a few other easy problems. Only there an hour or so cos it kept raining. Evening - The Leeds Wall, flashed everything apart from the yellow and black on first panel. Including a V6 i think and most other problems that were up. 
Tuesday- nothing
Wednesday- Leeds wall - First session back on routes. A few easy routes and some failures on stuff i had done before!
Thursday- Leeds wall - bouldered to warm up - flashed a few greens and just dropped the last move of a red on the flash.Then routes, did a few sets lapping stuff around 6b+. Hopefully fitness will come back quickly.
Friday- nothing
Saturday- Went out but didn't actually manage to climb anything.
Sunday- nothing

[nai]

winter goal - 7C
ltgs - 8a & E4 next summer

M- 90 mins at Tor, worked Weedkiller, best RP failed at penultimate move.
T - garage laddering rest down to 50s & 4mins, failed set 16 rep 51/52
w
T - garage, tried the SteMac routine 2mins on, 6 off. 5 sets relatively easily.
F - ummed and ahhed about whether to go out.  Bad decision, made it to the to last move of de-extended gorilla doors a few times before power-outage, should have done it but ripped a nail rushing the final attempt trying to beat the arrival of rain 
S- garage 2mins on, 4 off x4. 10 mins rest then repeat. big core session eve.
S - 5x15 pullups, 5x25, 5x25/30 pressups, shoulder, chest & tricep weights.

Hands fairly bad after Monday and Friday, pity the fingerboard is down or I would have hung rather than trying to get out.

[tommytwotone]

STG - Cliff tickage etc etc
LTG - Font 7b

M - Run on lunch, 7k in driving sleet / freezing cold rain.
T - Board session, still not really coming together down there.
W - Run on lunch, another 7k, this time on a slightly nicer day.
T - Nowt apart from first big drinking session since early Dec. Surprised myself, managed 6ish pints!
F - Pretty much a writeoff.
S - Nowt.
S - Failed Rubicon mission followed by a nice day at Curbar with some old friends. Did usual Trackside probs and then went to try Early Doors. Repeatedly dropped it from the last move. 

[Muenchener]

STG: Broughton 5c
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Back to work: a good week with four fingery bouldering strength sessions. Fingers feeling tweaked though; ease off next week.

M:
T: Indoor bouldering, office gym. Short lunchtime strength session working project problems
W: Indoor bouldering, Thalkirchen.
T:
F: Indoor bouldering, office gym. Short lunchtime strength session working project problems (again). Should do this more regularly, probably of more benefit at the moment than buying a beastmaker
S: Snooowboarding, Alpbach. Not really motivated for snowboarding this winter, but too late in the season to learn to ski now.  Still good to be out in the fresh air instead of inside inhaling chalk dust. Learn to ski next winter.
S: Indoor bouldering, Thalkirchen.

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Planche, front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: BM: assisted one-armers, planche & front lever progressions, eccentric curls, 4m run
T: bouldering at NCC
W: BM: assisted one-armers, front lever progressions, eccentric curls, 4m run
T: rest
F: nothing
S:Bouldering at Stoney (all wet apart from the right side of -10) and then at stump hole cavern (The 7B looked so doable!) & 6m trail run
S: Work

Bit of a rubbish week again, work/job stuff getting in the way of proper training. Hopefully this week will be an improvement. My ankle felt ok for three runs this week so hopefully start slowly upping the mileage again.

[i_a_coops]

M - fingerboard, weights
T - fingerboard, weights
W
T - (10 pressups) + (10 pushups) + (8 to 10 pullups OR 10 reps with dumbells) / minute x 10 minutes. Couldn't move for several hours.
F fingerboard.
S core
S core

[duncan]

M -
T - Pull-ups
W - The Arch - 6 mins gentle traversing.
T - Fingerboard [big slots]: repeaters
F - The Arch - Easy circuit: 21 problems.
S - Fingerboard [big slots]: repeaters, feet on.
S -

+ standard ankle balance and strength stuff.

Pretty good considering I was on crutches 3 weeks ago.

Plan B: rehab. ankle, circuits and endurance on stuff I'm highly unlikely to fall off, fingerboard cautiously.

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; keep up with bouldering standards over winter.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Outdoor sport, 8 routes @ San Bartolo including two close to my limit - good day with good challenges and good tactics.
T - Semi-rest day, 2 easy routes @ some limestone crag - crappy day with too much driving.
W - Outdoor sport, 8 routes @ San Bartolo including one at my limit - another good day with good challenges and good tactics (power nap!).
T - Outdoor sport, 5 routes @ San Bartolo including one close to my limit - another good day as above! But narrowly missed another hard route due to carelessness.
F - Gayflu + travelling - suck.
S - Gayflu - suck.
S - Gayflu - suck, but weighed self - lost 1 pound on trip abroad!.

Another good week, firstly because I was doing a lot of climbing and secondly because I actually did surprisingly well with my climbing ( http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/ ). It seems despite my weight / fitness problems, regular training at TCA and some good County missions have paid off. This has given me some confidence and some determination to keep pushing myself. Unfortunately despite a super-healthy week of lots of exercise, lots of sun and fresh air, lots of sleep and lots of fruit, I got wiped out with a cold so no training this weekend - but will start again this week.

[shark]

lose 1 stone weight.

You should try some of that max enduro-cross-training. I lost a kilo this weekend !

[tomtom]

lose 1 stone weight.

You should try some of that max enduro-cross-training. I lost a kilo this weekend !

I think Lagers should weigh himself again - it may have somehow osmosisised (?) between you whilst you were carrying him

[marky8b]

22/1/12
Chapel session - ANC & ARC
ANC
new 15 move problem steep wall 3 min rest 6 sets failure on last 2 sets at 13,12 (approx 115 moves)
ARC
20, 10's x 4 x 4sets ( approx 480 moves ) 10 mins rest between each set
Strength work/Circuit Training 6 excercises 1 min each station x 2 sets Press up, Crunchie 1, Pull ups steep wall, Shoulder press/up row, Crunchie 2, Bicep curl
450 core

24/1/12
Chapel Sesion - ANP & SSW
Run/Warm Up
Bouldering several problems 4/8 moves max (100 moves)
SSW
1 arm assisted 3 on each (15kg) 5sec, 4sec, 4sec
Weigthed pulls (15kg) x 3sets  5, 6, 5 (1x3x7x15kg =315kg
Dead Hangs small edge 7on3off x 3 stes (6,6,4)
Campus big rungs laddering x 2
Bit of a rushed session!

25/1/12
Chapel session ARC & Strength
Warm up
Vertical wall 20,10's 5reps, 1 set = 150
20 degree wall 20,10's 4reps 2 sets = 240
Vertical wall 20,10's 5reps 1 set =150
Total 540
Strength work
Bench 50 kg/single squat x 2 -10,5,10,5
Shoulder press & uprow x 2 sets 8,8,8,8

26/1/12
Chapel session ANP & SSW
Warm Up/Run
100 moves several different problems
SSW
Weighted pulls 15kg x 6 sets 5,5,5,5,4,4 (1x6x4.6x15 =414kg)
campus small x 3sets laddering

having 3 days off...

[webbo]

M. Bike turbo session 50 mins.
T. Bouldering Rockcity session on step board.Repeated last weeks problems and did 2 projects.
W. Weights.
Th. Nothing.
F. Rockcity power/endurance on stepped board. Up/ down jugs into a problem x 7 with 5 min rest between each rep.
S. Leeds wall mainly to pick up shoes and jeans I left last week. Good session did 4 or 5 which felt to v5ish. Bike 1 hr 30 mins.
Su. Weights dumbell session. Bike 2 hrs.
 

[Muenchener]

(10 pressups) + (10 pushups)

What's the difference? I though "pushup" was just American for "pressup". Which explains why you wre wrecked I suppose, if you were swimming the Atlantic between sets.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As always...

M: Lurgy.
T: Lurgy - Went to Sheaf for medicinal beer.
W: Lurgyish 3 mile run - beer must have worked!
T: Less lurgified 4 x 4 session @ The Edge - Steep ground work up to 6b+, good session!
F: 2 x 2's with Simon up to 7a - Bit tired but felt good, shame it was cut short but probably for the best.
S: Home shizzle no climbing(izzle).
S: PE @ The works - 2 x 6cish @ 3mins, board was too busy so finished off on campus board 6 x 45-50 hand movements on second smallest rungs with feet on @ 3mins rest.... Boxed, Boxed, Boxed, Boxed, Boxed, Boxed, Boxed!

Week started shit and ended well - Pretty pleased with my current PE level as I'm sure I was doing similar to this back end of last year @ 4 mins in 2 sets! Finger's still stable (not getting worse) and I'm psyched for Espana!!!!

:D

[fried]

So had my week off, did nothing but luckily it coincided with having a cold, so I wasn't up to it anyhows.

Until Saturday:- Still ill but did a very easy session, to sort out the parts of me that ache when I don't climb.

Weight 74.4kg

[iain]

STG: 7C in font/April, 7c+/8a before then
Weight: 62kg. Av 64.9 ish, down .3 for week although unsurprisingly a little heavier this morning.

M: Max hangs, Ancap, body conditioning. Progress from Saturday's session.
T: Aerocap and body conditioning. Progress from Sunday's session
W: Rest
T: Reading wall for bouldering fun. Whole wall had been reset so was kiddie in the sweet shop.
F: Ow. Still managed decent aerocap session and body conditioning.
S: Warmed up but felt tired and unfocussed so rest
S: Family/friends day in London. Planned wall visit sidetracked by beer, posh fish and chips and double chocolate brownie caramel fudge sundae  I think that might count as a shark calorie bomb.

Should have done something Sat or Sun but tired after busy week. Aim to get 5 days this week.

Immediate goal to come up with alternative to 'body conditioning' that doesn't sound like I'm in a 90's training montage and spending too much time in front of the mirror 

[i_a_coops]

(10 pressups) + (10 pushups)

What's the difference? I though "pushup" was just American for "pressup". Which explains why you wre wrecked I suppose, if you were swimming the Atlantic between sets.

I'm an idiot. I meant situps... 

[pete b]

I'm going to join here. I've been climbing around 3 years and currently climb at around v6/v7 outside although I feel I could do better with more time on actual rock. I only climb properly once or twice a week but also do finger/campus boarding at home and juggle the rest of the time. I will include my juggling since I believe that it contributes towards my strength and fitness. If you think that this is not relevant then I'll omit it in future.

M: 30 minute run followed by 30 minutes finger/campus boarding.
T: Indoor bouldering at K2. Was tired and climbed poorly so ended up doing some auto-belay.
W: 2 hour juggling session at Sussex uni focusing on 6 and 7 clubs.
T: Nothing
F: 1 hour Juggling session at the leisure centre working on 11 balls
S: 30 minute morning run. Bouldering at Craggy Sutton - did some nice 6C's.
S: Nothing

Should have some home training on Tuesday and Sunday.

[fried]

II will include my juggling since I believe that it contributes towards my strength and fitness. If you think that this is not relevant then I'll omit it in future.

Can't be worse than some of the boozing and eating that passes for training 'round 'ere.

[robertostallioni]

I request the exclusion of the juggling.    

[chris j]

I request the exclusion of the juggling.    

11 balls isn't bad though...   

[robertostallioni]

It is impressive, but if thats training then I spent and hour and a half last night with my hand down my pants training whilst watching "The Debt".