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Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame. (Read 488730 times)

Nibile

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If there was ever a hold that didn't need a tickmark....!


how you dare????? ;)

that hold needs to be ticked, it has at least two different spots where to be held.

Sloper

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Very sad but true, there was at least one donkey line at the climbing wall this evening! :jaw: 

Nibile

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well im guilty on this point.
last week i tickmarked a hold, but hey wtf the keep setting problems with blind dynos to holds behind corners and other bigger holds.

squeek

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Very sad but true, there was at least one donkey line at the climbing wall this evening!

What's the problem with that?  Spoiling the asthetics of it?  Ruining your photos?  Damaging the paint? ;)

There's quite frequently ticks at BUK because you have to gets holds on volumes that you can't see, or get holds round aretes, or footholds under volumes, or under the lip of a roof.  It's annoying to fall off because you missed the hold rather couldn't hold it.

Bubba

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Very sad but true, there was at least one donkey line at the climbing wall this evening!
I don't have a problem with that - it's not creating an eyesore in a natural environment.

webbo

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Very sad but true, there was at least one donkey line at the climbing wall this evening! :jaw: 

i do this all the time.its good practice for doing it outside. :whistle:

Fatboy

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I dont see this being a big problem, as long as you make sure to get rid of them before you leave.
Anyone agree??  :shrug:

fatboySlimfast

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the problem with then outside is the thickness of the chalk tends to bind to the rock leaving a mark whatever you do to try and remove it. I had to use water and a toothbrush to remove some off the easy little slab across from the Face of Busness. Big fat 1 inch fuckers as well, muppets :wall:

Fatboy

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Yeah true, I take your point and aslong as you have some water with you there should be no resaon to leave anything behind.  :thumbsup:

unclesomebody

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the problem with then outside is the thickness of the chalk tends to bind to the rock leaving a mark whatever you do to try and remove it. I had to use water and a toothbrush to remove some off the easy little slab across from the Face of Busness. Big fat 1 inch fuckers as well, muppets :wall:

objectively speaking, what is the difference between leaving a one inch tick mark behind and leaving a bunch of handholds covered in white chalk? I have never, ever, ever seen anyone washing handholds with water when they are leaving... but why? is a little tick so much more unsightly than a spreadout section of chalk on a hold? 

Nibile

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i think chalk is accepted or more acceptable cos it represent a "normal" use of the hold. the excess should be brushed away anyway.

but imagine arriving at your project and finding the holds completely soaked by a mixture of chalk and water...i surely would wait for them to dry, killing the necessary time by torturing the criminal who had done it ;)

webbo

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as my eyesight gets steadily worse with my increasing age will i need a note from my doctor/optician to allow me to draw an increasing number of donkey lines that will be needed for me to bumble up problems in the future.

SA Chris

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Yeah true, I take your point and aslong as you have some water with you there should be no resaon to leave anything behind.  :thumbsup:

In all my time bouldering, I have never seen anyone remove excessive chalk, be it build up, donkey marks or whatever once they have finished doing/working a problem. Nice to talk about it, but never actually witnessed it (a nd to be honest even done it) myself. I've removed excess chalk before trying them, and usually leave them with less chalk than before in these cases, but never actually cleaned them before moving on. Have never really donkey makred much, so can't comment.

Fatboy

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True, I have to say I've only ever really cleaned holds on a couple of projects that were fresh where I didnt want the holds to become gunky with repeated visits!!

Just an idealism I suppose and I agree that chalked hand holds are acceptable, and if excess is brushed away before moving on everyone should be happy!

 :thumbsup: Smiles all round??

fatboySlimfast

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Quote
objectively speaking, what is the difference between leaving a one inch tick mark behind and leaving a bunch of handholds covered in white chalk? I have never, ever, ever seen anyone washing handholds with water when they are leaving... but why? is a little tick so much more unsightly than a spreadout section of chalk on a hold?

err never said I washed handholds, only tick marks. Chalk on holds is in my opinion bad but at least its a slightly more subtle eyesore than tick marks which can be seen from a lot further away. The slab I was reffering to is english 5a, if you cant see the hold you shouldnt be bouldering or you should go to your nearest optician for an immediate check up

erm, sam

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Surely the daft thing about ticking holds indoors is that if you practise being precise on blind holds indoors, you become better at it, and thus need less tickmarks outside. Ticking holds indoors is just a missed opportunity to become better at climbing.

Jim

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I put the biggest tick mark indoors last night. about a meter long and an inch wide with an old chalk ball. kept getting wrong foothold on an eliminate so did that. didn't get it wrong again thats for sure.
who cares about indoors, its only practice for the real thing

dave

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I have no objection to tickmarking indoors, except for the worry that people will get used to relying on a tickmark (and not needing to brush it off) and then automatically do it outdoors without thinking.

The Sausage

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i have to be honest, i've cleaned holds with water at cragx and other slippery places. if you've tried a problem and are going back to it soonish, they'll feel a lot better when you get back to it. no for aesthetics, that's for sure. on the grit, surely most holds get cleaned by the rain soon enough?

Sloper

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The problem with donkey lines inside are as follows.

1. It's seen as associated with 'hard climbing' which means that f--kwit students / aspiring climbers (take your pick I sadly have to go to warwick wall) will think is necessary to climb hard outside.

2. The point about climbing inside is that it's fun and or training, in either case donkey lines aren't required and actually in my view degrade both,

3. The idea 'it's ok for me I climb Vx and brush them off afterwards' is about as valid as saying I'm a responsible cleaner of holds, you damage them with your wire brush, they chip'.


unclesomebody

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#245 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 31, 2006, 05:09:31 pm
bringing this thread back from the dead;


Monolith

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#246 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 31, 2006, 05:12:31 pm
Jesus Christ! Are they completely blind!? Correct me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't exactly look a blind slap to an ill defined shelf or crystal!
How did the trip go then Uncle? Welcome back to insanely shite weather mate.

a dense loner

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#247 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 31, 2006, 06:53:15 pm
did you wash them off after using them? good few days you had over there

Bonjoy

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SA Chris

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Throw me a frikkin' bone here!!

That must be a pisstake.

 

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