[fried]

Monday - nothing
Tuesday - Indoor, everything is starting to ache from my shoulders down to my wrist, I haven't had this pain for a while
Wednesday - shoulder stuff
Thursday - ditto
Friday - Indoor session, everything ached even worse than Tuesday (feels like a compartment syndromish pain)
Saturday - had 1.5h massage, was told that all my muscled are too tight, everywhere.
Sunday - Decide not to climb today...

So, I'm going to have a week off, do nothing, maybe some yoga and some light theraband stuff. I reckon 2.5 times a week climbing is enough for me at the moment.

Bought some new scales, weight 73.8kg

[Oldmanmatt]

Mon-Sat:-
I'm sorry.
There is no one here to take your call.
Please leave a message after the tone.
Today:-
Two hours of core, shoulders and chest. This morning.

[nai]

winter goal - 7C
ltgs - 8a & E4 next summer
M - did Dick Williams 
T- 5x15 pullups (fingerboard has had to come down during building work), 150 pressups, core
w- bit of core
T - complete 2x10min aerocap reps in garage then realised the sun had come out.  Went to Birchen & did MP3 (first 7B in a session) & Technical Genius, bit of core eve
F - AnCap circuit in garage, failed at rep49/52 set 15 & 48/52 set 16 (so I guess this means the bit of Aerocap work over the last 2 weeks has worked because I was failing at reps 11&12 previously?) core eve
S - decreased interval rest to 60s and inter-set rest to 4mins. Completed 4x4 moderately easily, rested 30s & did a bonus failing at 48/52. core eve.
s had to hold myself back, just wanted to do pullups, pressups, anything. Shame the beast is down, would have been ideal.

Chipped away at the core all week, done a bit every night as time allows, c100-300 reps.

Good week, climbing well, had some successes and making gains in training, if only the weather would play nice 

[tomtom]

Stg 50 7's.. (19/50)

Weather and work in the way this week.
Wed. Back to Rockcity... It's better than it was..
Sun. Logport wall. Managed most of the v5's then bailed.

[nai]

Just wondering, with week 104 fast approaching, how many power clubbers have not yet achieved their original stated aim?  In week one my goal was 7C and it still is, pretty shoddy really, obviously been doing something very wrong.  3 weeks to get it sorted, I do feel like I have it in me right now if I can maintain current form and attitude and the weather plays nice 
Is there an echo in here?

[tomtom]

7B+ and flash a 7A were my aims.. Done the first! I still have a slightly tweaky elbow two years on as well! Didn't realise I'd been moaning about that for two years!

[csl]

Monday- Bouldered at the Leeds Wall - got a yellow V7/8 4th go so definitely got stronger/better over christmas, buzzing. All the reds felt easy as well. Did 3x3's on a red V5.
Tuesday- Almscliff - Sore elbows, did keel crack for the first time - pretty good!
Wednesday- Nothing
Thursday- Nothing
Friday- Scotland - MING
Saturday- Scotland - MING
Sunday- Drove back from scotland.

[shark]

Just wondering, with week 104 fast approaching, how many power clubbers have not yet achieved their original stated aim?  In week one my goal was 7C and it still is, pretty shoddy really, obviously been doing something very wrong.  3 weeks to get it sorted, I do feel like I have it in me right now if I can maintain current form and attitude and the weather plays nice 
Is there an echo in here?

I think its OK to have a big grade goal as long as you don't attach too rigid a timespan to achieving it after all you can't predict how quicklt the training adaptions will happen, what injuries you will have to overcome, weather or what life will throw at you during that time period. As long as you get the improvements its the journey and the struggle that really counts which is more apparent with hindsight as getting a big tick can be depressing as once the euphoria subsides you realise you don't have a reason to live any more....or maybe that's just me   

Good work on Dick Williams

[Muenchener]

STG: Broughton 5c
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

I haven't missed a week of Power Club since I started so I won't now, even though I pretty much missed a week of training.

M to S:  Some kind of obnoxious low grade virus infection that neither breaks out into a full-on flu nor goes away. Took two days off work, probably should have taken the whole week.
S: Indoor bouldering, Thalkirchen. Not feeling fully recovered from illness but bored and had to do something. Was surprisingly ok. No new progress on my project boulder but was able to repeat all previous links.

My original stated Power Club goals were:

STG: Rehab left ring finger pulley injury  Yes
MTG: F6b os Yes x 12
LTG: F7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl Not yet, and both still feel a long way off

[Oldmanmatt]

150 press ups!

Nai, you're a beast!

I was so impressed I'd managed 2x30 (6kg weight belt), today, after two weeks off.

[shark]

Weight 11.5-7

M
T Eve. Wave. New problems. Did black on low roof and rt hand pink on steep section. Got to slapping for pinch on circuit but rubbish next go. Pretty shitty session. Blame having a rest day.
W Eve. Shed. Good goes on Oak sections. Crux throw getting easier but not climbed thru it yet from start.   
T PM. Wave. Felt good and bouldered with ThreeNine doing all the new problems in the bombay.
F PM. Edge with Duncan Disordely. Tied on for first time in ages. On tower onsighted easy pink 7a then took a nasty fall third way up green7b dogged way up desperate green 7a+ and then dogged up magnificent yellow 7c on most leaning bit then failed to do a 4x4 on 6c's
S.PM. Rubicon wet and flooded so went to tor. Windy, dry, no one there. Felt tired from previous day. Average session.
S PM Tor. Sneaked out whilst boys were at a bouldering comp. Filthy weather driving out but ok at tor. 4 good goes at Weedkiller - got to final moves arrrggh..

Delighted with the way gradual weight loss is going. Going to take it easy for a week after Tuesday then final 3 week block of training.

Great (unintended?) putdown from Awesome yesterday. Him: "What are you trying" Me: "Weedkiller" Him: "Footless?"

A vid of me failing on the last moves. Sorry about the camera tilt.

[205Chris]

Just wondering, with week 104 fast approaching, how many power clubbers have not yet achieved their original stated aim?  In week one my goal was 7C and it still is, pretty shoddy really, obviously been doing something very wrong.

How many 7cs have you been on during this time?  You undoubtedly have the ability it sounds like you just need to find one that suits you and start working it.

Edit - sorry - should also have said good work on DW!!!

[nai]

150 press ups!

not in one go I should clarify, 2x sets of 20 narrow, 25 standard and 30 wide.

[205Chris]

M - Works. About 15 of the new set of comp problems.
T - Fingerboard
W - Nada
T - Board session in garage
F - Works again. Ticked the new black circuit and tried some of the harder comp problems.
S - Sort boring life stuff out.
S - Cratcliffe and Rowtor. Did the Cave blob eliminate thing. After reading the other thread it turns out I didn't do Percy's start into Wish but I did do Spike J. Then discovered I still can't do Domes. There's something about awkward heel / toe cams / hooks that I just don't get on with. Witness both Domes and Big Al Qaeda for the evidence of this.

Hopefully heading to Northumberland in a few weeks if I can sort some accommodation then after that it will probably be time to start thinking about route training again.

[nai]

How many 7cs have you been on during this time?  You undoubtedly have the ability it sounds like you just need to find one that suits you and start working it.

that's a good point - Terrace, Marks Roof Direct, Brad Pit & Jerry's Roof are the only ones off the top of my head.  Best progress on BP, matched the flake briefly last year/season, but have never been back on it.  Definitely time to put some work into one.

edit - and famous grouse, that's definitely worth a return visit.

edit 2

Hopefully heading to Northumberland in a few weeks if I can sort some accommodation

When you going?  I got a few free days at half term, 8th-12th I think.

[tommytwotone]

STG - Cliff tickage yadda yadda yadda
LTG: Font 7b

M - Nowt
T - Lacklustre board session
W - Lacklustre wall session
T - Nowt
F - Leeds Wall for Boulder Leeds, put in a good showing despite crowds / not really feeling up for it
S - Nowt
S - Rubicon on spotting / filming duty followed by Works. Nowt special, but did tick off one of the comp problems I didn't do last Friday

Bit of a crap week, seem to have had a dip in psyche - I moved offices last week which isn't a massive deal but had thrown my day-to-day life up in the air a bit. Also my annoying hamstring tweak picked up on New Year's Eve hasn't gone away and is pissing my off now.

On Ian's point, progress toward 7b has been to tick off a couple of 7a+s in the last 18 months, seem to be struggling to find a 7b in Yorkshire that isn't Trust that suits my style though.

[wsmith]

Week 2 of 29 of plan.
M - Rest
T - Garage 1hr power session. Felt good, fingers feeling stronger.
W - Garage Aerocap 4 x 10mins
T - Very short bouldering session at Warwick. Should have just rested.
F - Garage Aerocap 4 x 10mins
S - Garage 40 mins power. Ancap, beat previous record 
S - Fingerboard. Garage Aerocap 4 x 10mins.

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Planche, front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: 3x DB complex, BM: assisted one arm pull-ups, front lever and planche progressions, eccentric curls & theraband
T: Bouldering at NCC
W: 4m run, theraband & eccentric curls
T: rest
F: rest
S: 3xDB complex, BM: assisted one arm pull-ups and max hangs, front lever and planche progressions
S: Bouldering at Robin Hoods stride

An ok week, didn't intend to take two rest days but thats how it worked out. Feel as though I am climbing quite well (for me) but just failing to finish off my projects.

[iain]

Goals: 7c+/8a before April and 7C in April.
Weight: 65.3 av, down .5 on last week. Heading in the right direction.

Good training week. Less than 2 weeks until I get back outdoors 

M: Max hangs, varying lengths and holds assisted one-armers, body conditioning
T: Aerocap workout. 3x3 min sets, roughly equivalent of 90 moves I think, had to make it easier on min 6, 8 and 9. Body conditioning
W: Rest
T: Reading wall. Good, fun, high volume session. No systematic training as it's better for the psyche just to climb at the mo. Solved a dyno problem with my version (ie. poor imitation) of a Ben Moon flick.
F: Needed rest after Reading.
S: Max hangs, varying lengths and holds and some ancap to finish. assisted one-armers, body conditioning
S: Aerocap session. 3x4 min sets, equivalent to 120 moves, easier on min 11, 12. Failure on Body conditioning

It was good to see a volume rise in the last two sessions of the week. Last week I was spent after shorter sessions, and I'm now finishing tired but still willing. Good stuff, weight loss will have helped.
It turns out that an exercise I was doing last Sept/Oct as a redpoint workout on the fingerboard is actually quite close to Aerocap. Probably helps explain my good form during those months, (although I wasn't posting here,) so good to know it works.

150 press ups!

not in one go I should clarify, 2x sets of 20 narrow, 25 standard and 30 wide.

That's still quite a lot, I'm clearly not trying hard enough. I aspire to, and am working my towards, your number of pull-ups.
Another congrats for Dick Williams.

[webbo]

M. Turbo session first in ages.
T. Rockcity mainly on stepped cellar board.Repeated last weeks stuff, did one I couldn't do last week.
W. Rockcity Power endurance on stepped board. Up and down jugs in to a problem x 6.
Th. Nothing friends round for dinner.
Fri. Weights.
S. Leeds wall meeting up with friends from distant shores.Comp problems managed most of the hards and did one very hard.
Su.Dumbell weight session. Then looking at houses. Bike turbo session.

[marky8b]

Transition week
16/1/12
Chapel session - ANC & ARC
ANC
15 move problem steep wall 3 min rest 6 sets (+2kg on last 2 sets (approx 100 moves)
ARC 2 sets of 20,10's 5reps each 300moves
Strength work/Circuit Training 6 excercises 1 min each station x 2 stes Press up, Crunchie 1, Pull ups steep wall, Shoulder press, Crunchie 2, Bicep curl.

18/1/12
Chapel session - ANP & SSW
Bouldering various problems around 7 differing no more than 8 moves, improvement on all problems!
1 arm assist (15kg) x 2 sets each arm 5 secs
Weighted Pulls x 2 sets, 6,6 (15kg) (1sessionx2setsx6repsx15Kg=180kg)
W/Belt climbing 2 sets steep wall 14 move circuit
Dead hang small edge x 2 sets of 7on3off (5,5)
Campus laddering big edge x 2 12moves up and down
Weigthed pinch & bicep curl super set (10kg 7on3off x 4 x 2 sets)

19/1/12
Chapel Session
Run/Warm Up
20, 10's x 4 x 4=480 moves
Strength work
super sets
Bench Press 50Kg (10,10) into single leg press (6,6)
Shoulder Press 30kg (8,8) into upright row (8,80
Core 300

[nai]

S PM Tor.  4 good goes at Weedkiller - got to final moves arrrggh..
A vid of me failing on the last moves. Sorry about the camera tilt.

Just failed at more or less the same point, maybe a move lower.  Nowhere near as smooth as you on it though.  Feel it'll go next time a bit fresher having not had to work it all out and maybe with a bit of refinement in a couple of places.

[i_a_coops]

M-F: fingerboarding + weights, as procrastination so several small sessions each day.
S + S - core

Might try writing stuff down next week, I feel like a right slacker compared to marky8b.

read somewhere that you should use the first week of a training plan to benchmark what you can and can't do, so you can get competitive with yourself and try and improve your party tricks.....so,

-can do encores on the BM crimps with 3 fingers open handed. Can't hang them crimped. That's what 10 months of pretty much exclusively open handing will do I suppose  Going to try and learn to crimp again by crimping with one hand, open handing with the other and alternating.

-can hold a front lever on the crimps for about 3 seconds.

-can do a set of repeaters on the 35s, just about, can't hang the 45s.

-can't hang anything one armed for more than half a second.

-can't hang anthing on back 2.

[shark]

S PM Tor.  4 good goes at Weedkiller - got to final moves arrrggh..
A vid of me failing on the last moves. Sorry about the camera tilt.

Just failed at more or less the same point, maybe a move lower.  Nowhere near as smooth as you on it though.  Feel it'll go next time a bit fresher having not had to work it all out and maybe with a bit of refinement in a couple of places.

Fancy a sess on it at the weekend ?

[nai]

will PM you

[duncan]

STG: Get fit for Verdon this Easter
MTG: E5

Took week-before-last off as had just spannered ankle and the wrist tweak might as well get a bit of rest.

M -
T - Pull-ups 'foot on'
W -
T - Deadhangs, 5 pull-ups (not all at once obviously)
F -
S - Deadhangs, pull-ups
S - Two sets of repeaters (on the BM2000 big slots).

Fingerboarding!  I finally feel like I am a worthy member UKB power-club.  Easy does it...

[iain]

 

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; keep up with bouldering standards over winter.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Indoor bouldering @ GCC - bad, weak, angry, listless. Should have gone for a steadier session.
T - Gym 2x10mins rowing, 20mins cycling, full light weights - good, splitting up rowing was more palatable.
W - Indoor routes @ Ratho - okay, a bit tired but okay training.
T - Rest.
F -  Nothing - bad.
S - Outdoor sport, 5 mid-grade routes @ Mjias - good, packed plenty into afternoon, absolutely exhausted tho.
S - Outdoor sport, 6 mid-grade routes @ San Bartolo - good, felt good climbing, needed a power nap in the sun tho.

A much better week. Good training (despite how shit I felt - I CANNOT afford to take more than a few days off unless I'm ill/injured) early on, a blip on Thu / Fri where I really should have done some general exercise, and then proper fun outdoor climbing at the end.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Ooops almost forgot

Goals: Not climb like a total punter in Spain over half term, F7c+ 2012, F8a 2013. Font 7B again (would like to do a 7B+ this year but it's not hugely likely).

M: Nowt
T: PE/Hard AeroCap @ The Works - 10 x 30 moves on 6cish @ 4minutes @rest.. Surprising!
W: 8 mile road run and 10mins AeroCap.
T: Volume Bouldering @ The Works - 30 + Problems very little rest. Pint in the Broady!
F: Volume and flight school @ The Edge with Shark - Good session, did some sets of 4 @ 6b and some trickier things up to 7a, took some pretty big lobs (the best being when I was ordered to let go but didn't actually hear so climbed an extra move or 2 without clipping resulting in a bit of a monster) Nice!
S: Mates up so nowt but walk int Peak.
S: Start to come down with Lurgy... Boooo!

Good week, crap weekend... Fitness is returning, finger is stable, head is ok... It's on!

:D