[i_a_coops]

I've just had a lot of metalwork removed from my left foot, and won't be able to run, jump or climb for 6 weeks. Now I want to start some kind of periodised nonsense with the ultimate aim of crushing in France late this summer (going to Ceuse, Buoux and the Verdon, and would be very excited to try Chouca).

Sadly for the next 6 weeks I can't actually climb, what I do have is a pull-up bar, a beastmaker, some free weights, and enough psyche to do core exercises. As such I was thinking of trying to do sets of encores at least every other day on various grip types, gradually reintroducing the crimp to my repertoire but in general improvising to simulate trashing my forearms on a variety of longish boulder problems, and also keep up core exercises most days for the full 6 weeks.

As for the free weights, I don't really know what the best thing to do with these are. On the one hand I'm already very strong for the grade I climb, but on the other hand since I can't use the time to get better at moving on rock, and I have a several month trip planned for the summer where hopefully I'll learn to use what strength I have I might as well get involved? Have vague notions of 4 weeks of increasing intensity then cutting back a bit for the next two weeks.

Once my foot has healed a bit in about 3 weeks I'm hoping to be able to traverse the bouldering wall on jugs as a kind of crippled attempt at Aerocap.

So:

week 1-4: Encores on slopers + pockets every other day + start mixing in some crimping, core routine every day, one or two light weights sessions in week one building up to a spanking in week 4.

Week 5-6: go a bit easier on the beastmaker + weights, keep going with core routine and hopefully start some aerocap.

Then after that I'll be able to climb again and will gradually build up from aerocap through to anaerobic power over the next few months, with as much time as possible on rock, and the occasional rest cycle thrown in when I feel totally wasted. Then for the cycle before the trip I'll just do some aerocap and bimble about on rock occasionally to keep my recruitment up and not forget how to climb.

What I'm asking for here really is a sanity check and anything I'm doing dead wrong! So thanks in advance.

Oh, and I asked Johnny Dawes what I should do during my 6 week layoff. He thought long and hard and told me I should get better at juggling and playing the piano. Obviously I plan to do both but I thought there might be better ways.....

[SA Chris]

IIRC, said metalwork is coming out of your foot?

If so, what CV exercise can you do? Obv running is out, but how about cycling (even on a static bike), swimming or getting on a rowing machine. I find periods of inactivity are bad for weight gain, as I tend to burn less off and eat a lot more.

[i_a_coops]

Metalwork is no longer there    but i have a lot of stitches and some screw holes in the bone, I can't apply any pressure to it at the minute without some serious pain. I was thinking of doing some swimming once my bandage comes off at the end of week 2, but probably won't get round to doing any meaningful amount. TBH I find weight loss is more of a problem during layoffs, as I lose the muscles in my back!

[abarro81]

I'm not sure about only doing encores. Maybe some more variety - some max hang sessions, and varying the encores/repeaters. Doing repeaters but 4 hangs only, on every second minute should replicate AnCap as far as rough timing goes. You might get a bit less bored with more variety of hang lengths, rest times etc too!

Buoux could be very hot in summer, the bit with Rose/Chouca doesn't get shade until fairly late IIRC (maybe it gets more in summer? I've been there in April ish time twice and it was shade only and warm in the shade both times)

[Three Nine]

IIRC, said metalwork is coming out of your foot?

If so, what CV exercise can you do? Obv running is out, but how about cycling (even on a static bike), swimming or getting on a rowing machine. I find periods of inactivity are bad for weight gain, as I tend to burn less off and eat a lot more.

have you met Ian? weight gain is unlikely to be an issue! I cant really help with training advice - but i'll be well impressed if you do Chouca, its def a big tick (which im sure you're well capable of!)

[i_a_coops]

Thanks Barrows, will definitely take that advice on the finger boarding. Never really used a fingerboard for anything other than seeing how strong my fingers already are, which isn't really their best use! Was thinking of staying in Ceuse for the hot bit of the summer then heading to Buoux in September, so getting on for Autumn.

And Mark - I fully expect Chouca to be brutal! Seen pictures of it though and I am pretty psyched for a potential siege if it comes to it.

[SA Chris]

have you met Ian? weight gain is unlikely to be an issue!

Clearly not, just going on my experience.

[205Chris]

Perhaps you could train your ability to see grip 

[i_a_coops]

I've been there in April ish time twice and it was shade only and warm in the shade both times

I'm assuming for  Buoux in general one wants to be a power endurance machine on pockets?

[abarro81]

Indeed, that was certainly my impression of the place. Good with your feet quite useful too, not that you can really train that with a busted foot! The easy graded techy stuff is often nails.

[i_a_coops]

well Johnny Dawes told me I move like Adam Long* so obviously my footwork must be amazing...   


*for anyone who hasn't seen me climb, the only explanation for this is that he was smoking crack.

[mrjonathanr]

heading to Buoux in September, so getting on for Autumn.

Only ever found September very hot and humid in Buoux. Verdon's better in early autumn.

[Nigel]

well Johnny Dawes told me I move like Adam Long*

Shiftily, in dark alleyways around Mappin Street? Or like John Wayne?

[Three Nine]

well Johnny Dawes told me I move like Adam Long* so obviously my footwork must be amazing...   


*for anyone who hasn't seen me climb, the only explanation for this is that he was smoking crack.

maybe he meant in the bedroom?

[saltbeef]

well Johnny Dawes told me I move like Adam Long* so obviously my footwork must be amazing... 

was he nursing a gritstone phallus?

[i_a_coops]

was he nursing a gritstone phallus?

Think he was going on about gritstone dildos and sticky rubber condoms. 

Or was it the other way round....